Kumittipathi : A peep into the past

For those who are game for some adventure, writes Anima Balakrishnan

WHERE LEGENDS UNFOLD The entrance to the Neolithic cave - Photo:K.Ananthan

It was not a great day to embark on your first RLT. The monsoon had unleashed itself on neighbouring Kerala and my RLT destination, Kumittipathi, is a mere four kilometres from the Kerala border.

Our guide, ARK Arun is a fossil expert. Kumittipathi, the fossil man vouches, is home to Neolithic paintings that are more than 5,000 years old. If you thought RLTs are about obscure places tucked aeons away from civilisation, this one is different. A mere 30 km from Coimbatore, the place haunts you with its deathly stillness but has an inherent capacity to surprise you.

As you drive down NH 47 towards Palakkad, clouds darken and the air gets heavier past the Western Ghats. As we steer off the main road, temperatures drop and the scenery dotted with over-grown palm trees takes over. A town appears before you from nowhere. It's Thirumalayanpalayam. Kumittipathi is just couple of kilometres away. A serpentine road takes you past tiny settlements and stone quarries, and legends unfold. Table-like stone structures, Sumai Thangikal, erected in memory of women who died during childbirth rest on the roadside. The road gets progressively slender and the ride bumpier.

Squeezing past bowing shrubs, the car climbs over a languorously spread rock and the outcrop housing the caves presents itself majestically. As the rain beats down hard, we leave our phones and watches behind and I take my first close look at the mammoth rock, which sits like a grey-brown slouching monster with a quaint sense of adventure.

Uphill task

We begin our climb and Nature decides to be a little unkind. The skies open up with all fury and with no coats or caps, the slippery climb gets a little tricky. We lumber behind the fossil man, treading over dicey, bald rock with great care. After a climb of nearly 30-foot, a huge oval mouth, around 20-foot wide opens in front of you. There it is, the granite formation in rock, pregnant with more than 3,000 million years of history and waiting to unfold its story. At the entrance are the Neolithic works, called the petrographs, of a peacock, a tree, an elephant and other geometric figures, assumed to be more than 5,000 years old. They fight for space with new-age artistic creations in chalk and paint. Walk into the ten-foot deep dark cave and pieces of broken glass and match-sticks carpet the slushy floor.

A petrograph.

Those game for a little adventure will find the climb to the temple at the top of the 300-foot outcrop interesting. Erratically arranged stone steps wind up and suddenly disappear from view. Arun assures us that the climb is not too tough and being in a mood for some adventure, I agree. But as you go half way up, the steps vanish and you are at the mercy of thinly carved footrests on the sloping, slimy rock.

You move ahead, one step at a time and tend to miss more than a breath. The rain lashing down your back doesn't make it any easier. After an eternity, you are at the very top, before the Baladandayudhapaani temple. Neatly margined paddy fields stretch across as far as you can see and the Ghats covered in mist unravel like a dark giant.

How to get there

Drive down the Palakkad highway, past Madukkarai till you reach the signboard for Nehru College on the left. Turn there and drive down the main road to reach Thirumalayanpalayam. Kumittipathi is two kilometres from there.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2005/08/13/stories/2005081301390300.htm

Ulakkaiaruvi : A walk on the wild side

Ulakkaiaruvi: also a botany lesson, says SOMA BASU

THICK-SET FORESTS, rocky tracts, hidden pathways, an effusive waterfall, a three-km trek on an abandoned forest pathway. Ulakkaiaruvi is impossible to do alone. If it wasn't for the help of the Forest Department staff, this RLT wouldn't have seen the light of day.

Locals know the area but don't venture out much. But if you manage to find someone from the village or, better still, the Forest Department, the journey could become more than just a walk on the wild side — also an interesting lesson in botany.

Nestling in the deciduous Asambu forests in Kanyakumari district in the southernmost tip of the Western Ghats, Ulakkaiaruvi is about 30 minutes drive from Nagercoil. We walk our way up through a patchwork of lemon grass, under the shade of teak and rosewood and wild coconut and on a pathway along which keezhanelli and other medicinal plants abound, a live pharmacy with cures or palliatives for everything from jaundice and diabetes to chest pain.

I am shown a bilva tree. A medicinal plant whose oblong leaves form the stem too making a beautiful rangoli-like pattern. There's a mahabilva too, whose leaves are offered to Lord Siva. My companions, Sreevalsan and Ramdas, give me an interesting demonstration. They cut a branch of a tree called pullani ("vedanintholan" in Tamil meaning a hunter's friend). To my surprise, it oozes crystal clear water. We quickly fill our empty bottles and the replenishment is truly refreshing.

The area is an "active ecological habitat." More than 2,500 species of plants are estimated to grow here. The place, besides being a delight to botanists, is also an ornithologist's paradise with 150 types of listed birds found here. Plus: it is home to elephants, sambar, chital, Nilgiri tahr, langur, mouse deer and wild boar.

When we reached the base of the falls — which cascade from a height of 100 ft in a single long column of water resembling a pounder (and so the name olakkai) — my friends egg me on to climb up to the top.

The view from there is unforgettable. The shifting play of colour, the deep gurgle of water and a peppermint-like breeze contribute to the sylvan setting.

It is believed that the area may be declared a sanctuary. At the same time, the district administration has a project in the pipeline to make Ulakkaiaruvi more tourist friendly by laying paths, creating resting zones and perhaps introducing a winch to ferry people to the waterfall. But all this is still very much at the conceptual stage.

The way down is every bit as tough as the three-hour journey up and so this RLT is recommended only for the hardy.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2004/08/21/stories/2004082100290100.htm

Chitharal : History atop a hillock

The serenity you experience at the cave is worth the arduous uphill climb, says SOMA BASU

PHOTO: SOMA BASU

STEPS TO THE PAST Chitharal

After finding my way from Nagercoil to Chitharal, a tiny, unpretentious village, I stand in front of a huge Kerala-style arch. This impressive entrance at the foot of the Thirucharanmalai hillock welcomes visitors but gives them no indication of the hard climb ahead.

Lesson 1, I learnt: Don't overestimate your level of fitness. Lesson 2: It's always wise to choose a day when the sun is not too sharp to start your ascent of what is practically a vertical cliff. For, the only attraction at the end of the demanding RLT is a cave atop the hill which has rock cut sculptures of the Jain Thirthankaras and attendant deities dating back to the 9th Century A.D.

Uphill task

The moment I cross the arch and begin climbing the steps, I realise this is not an easy RLT, what with the merciless sun beating down on my face and the climb steep. Cement benches line the entire 800-metre climb but with the sun blazing down, it's impossible to sit on them. The path uphill is dotted with cashewnut trees, interspersed with other shade-giving trees. Around the benches, beds of colourful flowers have been laid and huge trees bearing red and violet flowers complete the picturesque scene - the handiwork of a former District Collector of Kanyakumari, who tried to develop Thirucharanmalai into a tourist destination.

At last, I see two men climbing downhill and hopefully ask them how far away the shrine is. They merely smile, shrug and walk on, making me wonder how much longer the trek is. But, with each step I take, it seems that I am going back in time, delving into the past, to another era. Yes, Chitharal is one of the last few vestiges of Jainism. In days of yore, this rock shrine was a pilgrim centre for the Jains.

Around the period of the decline of Jainism during the rule of the Cholas in the 11th Century, it is believed that Chandragupta Maurya, along with a Jain ascetic Badrabhahu, reached Sravanabelagola in 298 BC. Their disciples travelled to this region to spread Jainism and chose the hillock for meditation. It was, however, converted into a Hindu temple in 1250A.D., and an image of Bhagavathy was installed.

Almost an hour later, I reach the top of the craggy hill. Its name, Thirucharanmalai, means `the hill holy to the charanas'.

The charanas are said to be the eighth class of samanas who acquired the siddhi by which they could conceal themselves in flowers, water or sky. It also means `a place where Jains live in large groups.'

Atop the hillock, a cool breeze brushes against my cheek and I take in the charming landscape. The jagged outline of the Western Ghats, enveloped by white puffs of clouds, presents a pretty picture against the blue canvas of the sky. Below, the gleaming lakes, fields, winding rivers, clusters of villages nestling amid coconut and palmyrah groves, tall church spires, lofty gopurams... appear enchanting.

I explore the natural cave that has made Chitharal so famous. What catches my attention on the hilltop are two huge rocks almost resting on each other to form a narrow opening through which you can see the beautiful landscape on the other side. Squeeze yourself through this aperture and take the natural stairway down to the rock sculptures. On the northern side of the overhanging rocks are carved images of the Thirthankaras, with their distinct hanging earlobes, the three-tiered umbrella over their tonsured heads, in sitting and standing postures. The images have broad shoulders, slender waists and a contemplative expression on their faces. Between each image are inscriptions in Vattezhuthu.

As you go around the wall of rock art, another flight of steps takes you to the imposing ruins of a temple perched right on top of the hill. Most of the deities in the central shrine are believed to be those of the Jain Thirthankaras, namely Parsvanatha and Mahavira. The Hindus, however, consider these to be images of Maha Vishnu. The central shrine is divided into three chambers — one for the Goddess, another for Mahavira, and, the third, for Parsvanatha in a standing posture. Another flight of steps leads to a pond in front of the shrine. On top of the central shrine is a brick gopuram. The three-storey pagoda apparently carried images of Mahavira. But I learnt that it was destroyed by lightning in 1908.

Tranquil spot

Chitharal is a tranquil spot — a confluence of history and religion. The serenity you experience at the cave is worth the arduous uphill climb. The district administration is busy giving the place a facelift. Many tourists have begun visiting the spot to catch a glimpse of the frescos and the panoramic view of the hills.

How to get there: Chitharal (also spelt Chidaral) is 55km from Kanyakumari, 36km from Nagercoil and 7km from Marthandam. The approach road is from Kandapuram, leading to Elanthavilas. Chitharal is located exactly 4km North East of Kuzhithurai.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2007/04/07/stories/2007040700400300.htm

Nenmeni : Enjoy the breeze and birdsong

Trek to a reservoir, visit a temple and do some bird-watching, says SOMA BASU

PHOTOS: SOMA BASU

QUIET FLOWS THE RIVER People crossing the shallow waters of the Vaipparu

When they saw the disappointment on my face, the two young lads I met at Kullur Sandhai suggested that I visit Nenmeni. Not that Kullur Sandhai was a bad choice, but it was not quite as picturesque as an RLT is meant to be.

So I extended my drive by 45 minutes through Virudhunagar District to my new destination - Nenmeni.

A new dam under construction on the River Vaipparu, which also has a PWD irrigation tank, attracts birds in the winter months. Barely a km from the Nenmeni dam site, stands a temple in Irukkankudi, almost floating at the confluence of two rivers - the Arjuna and the Vaipparu.

Nine km east of Sattur, it is not difficult to find your way to the banks of the Vaipparu. The road is narrow and bumpy, but the green paddy fields alongside are a soothing sight.

Later, I learnt that Nenmeni is actually a corruption of the Tamil word `Nelmani' meaning `paddy yield'. I left behind rows of kuccha-pucca houses in the villages en route and drove on till the road became a long, narrow track culminating in a dead end.

There was construction work ahead, and the detour I took was a muddy, path on which vehicles of all sizes tried to squeeze through. I picked my way out of the muddle and finally reached the dam site. I was surprised to find the area dry, despite torrential rain elsewhere in the State.

The Vaipparu flowed quietly, but did not brim with water. The dam, though a modern construction in grey stone, resembled a castle. The grey dam, blue sky, the greenery around and the silver water below made an interesting contrast.

Avian visitors

The dam under construction.

The irrigation tank on one side, I learnt got filled by December and attracted a fairly large number of avian visitors. Many seasonal and migratory birds apparently made this place a stop-over. However, I did not get to see any.

So I decided to visit the 200-year-old Mariamman Temple. I walked along the bund for a kilometre.

The surrounding area was as flat as a pancake, with the hills far away in the horizon. A few coconut trees swayed in the foreground, standing tall amid other species.

As I neared the temple, I spotted the confluence of two separate streams - the Arjuna and the Vaipparu. The water flowed languidly, almost grey-brown in colour.

What was actually a waterway seemed like a busy thoroughfare with people and even vehicles going across it. There are two such shallow areas - one, almost half a km away from the temple site where two and four-wheelers cross and, the other, right in front of the temple, mostly used by pilgrims.

Two-century-old temple

My first glimpse of the shrine was disappointing for there was too much litter strewn around, some of it even floating in the water. I waded through knee-deep water to reach the temple gate. The sun-soaked exterior of this two-century-old temple gave way to a cool interior.

Legend has it that a young girl who was gathering cow dung, happened to place her basket on the ground, but later found that she could not remove it.

She had a vision that a temple should be built on the spot. The temple priests claim they have inherited the temple and all other rituals and customs from their forefathers.

Temple not really being on my agenda, I wondered what made Nenmeni an appropriate RLT destination.

Undoubtedly, the reservoir and the birds. The best time to visit is between December and February.

For the religiously inclined, the Irukkankudi Mariamman Temple is a bonus.

But there's more to Nenmeni and Irukkankudi than the dam and the temple.

The walk from the dam to the temple is fun for trekkers. It's more enjoyable in wet weather because it's cooler and the whole place comes alive with birdsong.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2006/11/25/stories/2006112500020300.htm

Thondi : A port with a past

For a slice of history, says SOMA BASU

PHOTO: SOMA BASU

PICTURESQUE SETTING The pier at Thondi

Beaches always beckon and so does anything `ancient.' This time a friend in the Police Department posted in Ramanathapuram district, recommends some neglected but beautiful places there.

"They are deserving RLT spots," he assures. So, I get into my car and head to Thondi, an ancient port city in Ramnad. The drive from Madurai takes a little over three hours. But be prepared for a stomach-churning stretch from Thiruvadanai to Thondi as there is no proper road and also leave your olfactory senses behind or else don't embark on this journey.

But if you are driven by an adventurous spirit, just hit the track. You just can't always have the best on every RLT trip, I remind myself as my eyes scan the setting on either side of the road. From Madurai to Thiruvadanai, the road is good and the drive, pretty smooth. Nature doesn't have much to offer during this season except for patches of tamarind arches on the highway. Paddy has been harvested and much of the landscape around is brown. But the worse is yet to begin when the vehicle suddenly slips with a thud from a tar track on to a muddy and pebbled tract.

Suddenly, there's activity all around. Bulldozers and road rollers, mounds of sand and beds of crushed stones line the narrow and kucha, almost unmotorable road. The car grudgingly makes its way through the brown haze raised by passing vehicles. Through the dusty veil, I spot a brightly painted temple gopuram, a moss layered school building, thatched huts and some dilapidated structures. The paint on a handful of signposts and milestones on the way has faded. The muddy road branches off from what was supposed to be the main road and curves down bringing into sight some hamlets and a church on the right.

On the left one can see the Bay of Bengal shimmering under the fiery sun. As I reach there post-noon, it's hot and what makes the initial moments worse is the smell of fish. The best option is to cover your nose and drive on. It is the first lap of about 750 m that stinks.

Unique experience

Drive along the coastline till the road reaches a dead end at the gate of the Thondi branch of the Karaikudi-based Alagappa University. Just before this beautiful campus by the seaside is the office of the Naval Detachment Unit. Opposite the naval base, a half-a-km long cemented pier takes you right into the sea. It is a unique experience to walk on it with a strong wind blowing on your face. But don't go too close to the edge as there is no safety railing to hold on to. It is a naked land jetty and used only for fishing. The water, however, is still. The Palk Strait at Thondi is supposed to be shallow and is considered much safer than other areas around the Strait and the Gulf of Mannar. Thondi could have qualified as an ideal place for swimming, surfing and sun bathing. But then due to lack of road and rail connectivity and inadequate hinterland development, the place has lost its importance and is used only for fishing now.

But its historical importance cannot be undermined. Thondi is recorded as a heritage place of the great Kings of the Cheras, the Cholas and the Pandyas, who all nurtured this port city. Even the British used the Thondi Port to import and export goods from Sri Lanka and Burma, among other countries. There have been demands to revive the port for the past several decades but only now under the Sethu Samudram Project implementation, some work has begun in laying a road to Thondi.

If the smell doesn't bother you much, then you can enjoy the serenity of the place. You see nothing but water here in three directions. In the foreground, it looks mossy green but follow the receding horizon and you find a lovely combination of blue and shining silver. The sea is gentle and fishermen's boats appear in the distance like tiny specks on the aqua canvas. If you turn your back to the sea, the fourth side reveals the secular nature of the place. The coastline is dotted with a church, a temple and a mosque.

Truly, Thondi hides a charming delight. If only the authorities take care to clean up the area, can it be developed into a more inviting destination.

How to get there

Thondi is 40 km from Ramanathapuram and 145 km from Madurai. While coming from Madurai, take the Sivagangai road and on to Kalaiyarkoil and Thiruvadanai before reaching Thondi.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2007/02/26/stories/2007022600150200.htm

Kumarakoil : Ups and downs

Kumarakoil Not a perfect RLT destination, but you could still enjoy some picturesque sights, says Soma Basu

Photo: Soma Basu

For a short trip Kumarakoil

When reading up on Kumarakoil, I am tempted to visit this ancient Murugan temple on a green hillock surrounded by green fields and a lake. And I set out. I am on the mountain road that winds its way through small villages, I turn right 15 km down on Nagercoil-Thiruvananthapuram main road and in less than 30 minutes from Nagercoil, I reach the Kumarakoil village. A narrow, dusty, potholed road — dotted with paddy fields though — brings me right in front of the temple. A distressing truth unfolds. No green hill to climb. Just a cluster of houses fill up the area. Garbage is dumped on one side of the temple and on the other, few small shops sell puja articles. I think of cancelling the RLT and retreating. But having come all the way, I trudge ahead. I look up at the 250 feet high hillock and the temple appears a speck of white. The heat burns me and the 80-odd steps leave me breathless. Finally, at the temple entrance I am elated. I look below and see paddy fields, coconut groves and banana plantations... undulating green cover. The silence inside the temple is intense. The cool interiors refresh me. A grey-haired priest, guessing I am a first-timer and an unlikely pilgrim, offers help. He enlightens me about the temple’s history and mythology. Near Padmanabhapuram, the erstwhile capital of Travancore, this temple is on the slopes of legendary Veli Malai (legend has it that Lord Murugan married Valli here). The place is also known as Manamalai or Kalyanamala. The Travancore kings had set aside large areas of land and paddy fields to support the temple. By the temple are Kanjipuras, where ascetics and pilgrims were once served food. These structures are dilapidated now, but on special days, pilgrims are still offered prasadam.

Gauging my disinterest in the temple history, the priest arranges for a boat ride in the lake, which is the temple tank. A happy finale I thought as I hopped into the small boat. Somewhere in the middle of the tank, few people are taking a dip. As I leave them behind to the twittering of the birds perched on tree tops on the other end of the lake, I realise, it is Kumarakoil’s history and surroundings that makes it an interesting place.

How to get there: Kumarakoil is 34 km f rom Kanyakumari, 15 km North West of Nagercoil and three km from Thuckalay. It is also close to the old Padmanabhapuram palace.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2007/07/16/stories/2007071651080200.htm

Sathanur (Perambalur) : Embalmed by Nature

Sathanur: a tree that is as old as forever, says SOMA BASU

THIS RLT was devoted to the search of a tree. Not any old tree of course, but one that is believed to be 120,000,000 years old. I re-checked the number of zeros with the Geological Survey of India, even though a couple of zeros either added or taken out wouldn't really have made a difference. But you get the point, yes? Very, very old.

Of course, I almost never made it to my destination: Sathanur. The drive from Tiruchi to Ariyalur, particularly the 25 km stretch to Sathanur, is — to understate the point — not exactly a featherbed. And then the bumpy, spine-testing drive came to an abrupt halt because the road itself came to a sudden halt.

Hauling myself out, I began walking beside shepherds and along a muddy tract beside which children swung on ropes attached to trees and were busy fishing in small ponds. Smalls streams that cut across the pathway glistened under a kindly sun.

Having asked directions to the maram (tree) all the way, I reached a point where there was no longer a need to. There it was, its large trunk petrified and embedded in a group of rocks that were as old as eternity. As I walked to the spot, an old man, Murugesan, who has been guarding this rare remains of this conifer tree came running out with a key. He unlocked the iron gate to let me into an open compound, where it lies, measuring some 18 metres and looking like a sandy brown log of wood. The Geological Survey reported its existence in 1940 and it has been declared an asset with the entire areas surrounding it a protected geological monument.

Its history

The story goes that the sea, which lies about 100 km east of Sathanur today, was present in these parts. During this period — geologically classified as cretaceous — the sea abounded in a variety of marine animals, not wholly dissimilar to those that exist today. When they died, these animals sank to the bottom to be buried by sand and clay brought down by the rivers. Along with them, some trees that flourished on the coast or near the shore were also buried after being flushed in by the streams. In course of time, they were petrified, embalmed forever by Nature.

The tree is exposed to Nature, but Murugesan says he has not seen any change in its colour or composition for the past three decades. He doesn't receive many visitors barring the odd group of college students out on excursions. A tattered register maintains a record of the visitors over the years. The tree's caretaker thinks the Government should do more to make it an attraction. He suggests that if the surrounding areas are developed into a park, more people will come to look at it. This will also give local villagers an alternative source of income.

Fossil trees

The idea makes good sense. For, there are similar fossil trees in the area near Varagur, Anaipadi, Alundalippur and Sarada-Mangalam — all within a radius of 10 km. The entire area can be developed into an important geological site. Meanwhile, Murugesan's protective zeal ensures that no damage is done to the tree. He has another three years to go but hopes the department will extend his services if visitors write kind words in the guest book. I do this because of Sathanur, which turns out to be an atypical but interesting RLT. I do this also for the dedicated keeper of the tree.

How to get there

Sathanur may be reached via the Chennai-Tiruchi highway. Don't miss the left turn from Siruvachur Village, which leads to the maram.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2005/01/22/stories/2005012202210100.htm

Dhimbam : Journey into the heart of the jungle

Get hypnotised by the calm, says PANKAJA SRINIVASAN

PHOTOS: K. ANANTHAN

WATCH THEM IN THE WILD Spotted deer.

Some wise guy on the Travel and Living Channel said, "It is not the destination, but the journey there that matters." This RLT was something like that. The destination was "Tiger Farm", a spot tigers frequented once upon a time. With ridiculously improbable visions of cats roaming, romping and slumbering in the sun, we depart for Thalamalai, somewhere in the Sathyamangalam forests.

But first things first and breakfast is at Sri Ramavilas at Sathyamangalam. Hot pongal and vadai followed by coffee and a friendly conversation with R. Venkatraman, the owner, who says R. K. Narayan has eaten here. Then, safe in the belief that Bannari Amman is watching over us, (we visit her temple in the foothills), we set off.

The fun begins when we start the climb — 27 hairpin bends. We stop to watch a huge container struggling to make the turn. "Ever forward, never backward" says a pithy message emblazoned on the lorry. No wonder, all that trouble to reverse! I turn my attention to the other side of the road where a terse "Sound Okay Horn," is all the luxury of words that truck owner will allow himself.

Soon, we reach Dhimbam. There, we take a left turn and drive into thick forests. Surprisingly, the road is great. And, oh the silence... there are just a few birds exchanging notes, only occasionally. Suddenly, a streak of orange as a pack of furry creatures crosses our paths. Sennaai (wild dogs) says our driver. Before we can aim and shoot, they are gone, but not before flashing us looks of dislike.

I actually feel like the paparazzi — rude, insensitive and intrusive. Take the Grey Wagtail, in the rock pool where we have pulled up. It is minding its own business — absorbed in some complex preening ritual and we stare at its every move as it flits from rock to rock, looks at itself in the water, takes a sip or two and does a little happy jig. I wonder, if it really doesn't know we are there ogling at it. Or, may be it does. Watching the bird and sitting amidst mind numbing silence, I actually doze off for a few minutes!

A Brahminy kite at Thalamalai.

That is the greatest thing about this RLT. It is all about breathing in clean, sweet air and being hypnotised by the utter silence. It is a lovely, dreamy feeling. And, it is an ornithologist's heaven. Some spotted deer complete the feeling of euphoria.

But, we still have to see the gambolling tigers! And, of course, we don't. Tiger Farm is just an old bungalow built by a white man, near a pool where tigers once met over a drink. The yellow-washed bungalow looks intriguing. But, it belongs to someone and the caretaker is unwilling to let us in. So, we look at it from outside, and move on even as a Brahminy kite makes a repast of a short-lived reptile.

Permission: It is a protected area so contact the DFO's Office at 04295-220312 before you set off.

How to get there: From Coimbatore drive up to Sathyamangalam from where Dhimbam is approximately 25 km. At Dhimbam, turn left. The forest drive begins almost immediately.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2007/01/20/stories/2007012001270400.htm

Kulasekarapattinam : Picnic on the beach

At last, an RLT destination teeming with people, says SOMA BASU

PHOTO: A. SHAIKMOHIDEEN

KULASEKARAPATTINAM A beach that comes alive for Dasara

It was a unique place for an RLT. Kulasekarapattinam in Thoothukudi District boasts a fine beach. Formerly, it was a minor port having trade links with Sri Lanka. But after Tuticorin became a major port, Kulasekarapattinam lost its status.

The coastal village is famous for its 300-year old Muthuraman Koil located on the seashore. When I landed there, I discovered a setting that was quite different from anything I had imagined. I had hoped to unwind on a secluded beach with only the sound of waves for company. But, Kulasekarapattinam was bustling with activity. I was surrounded by a sea of people, and the sound of water was barely audible. The area resonated with the rhythmic beat of drums. The occasion was Dasara, which is celebrated with pomp at the temple. Folk artistes from all over the State converge here to participate in the 10-day festival. The beach looked like a fair ground and the performances reminded me of the natyotsavs at Puri.

Hawkers selling conch shell items, rudraksha malas, plastic toys and T-shirts, added to the mela atmosphere. Everything had a rural overtone and children and adults appeared to enjoy themselves to the hilt.

"I stay in the village and visit the beach often. But during Dasara, the place is completely transformed," said Muthuvelachamy, a fisherman.

But what about the litter strewn around... the plastic carry bags, paper cups and plates? Apparently, the locals form a team of volunteers to maintain a degree of cleanliness during and after the festival by cleaning up the place and asking people to throw the waste in the bins provided.

Time slipped by on the Kulasekarapattinam beach. I enjoyed the folk programme, wove my way through the crowd and walked along the shore occasionally dipping my feet in the water.

Once the festival is over, the sound of the waves takes over again. Kulasekarapattinam was named after King Kulasekarapandiyan during whose reign, it is said, the city prospered.

As there are no boarding and lodging facilities or restaurants around, go prepared for a picnic.

How to get there: Kulasekarapattinam is on Thoothukudi-Tiruchendur/ Kanyakumari road. It is about 60 km from Thoothukudi town and 20 km from Tiruchendur. From Tirunelveli, it is 68 km and 65 km from Kanyakumari.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2005/10/15/stories/2005101501360300.htm

Ayyanar Sunai : On Nature's trail

A confluence of water, forest and sand dunes, says SOMA BASU

DENSE CANOPY Thicket of Talambumaram in Ayyanar Sunai

What a strange place for an RLT! I almost mistake it for a forest, then a beach and then, a desert! But the truth is Ayyanar Sunai is a fine spot where the elements of Nature blend. And it is actually known for a natural spring which has water throughout the year.

I set out for Ayyanar Sunai, a place that has been dismissed as just another "beautiful picnic spot" in tourism brochures. It is situated about 40-odd km from Tiruchendur.

On every RLT trip, I always wish the sun would be kinder, to enable me to enjoy the lush scenery. The busy highway from Tirunelveli to Thoothukudi takes a quiet turn into the countryside. I pass luxuriant paddy fields, banana plantations and coconut groves till I enter a narrow road lined with tamarind and neem trees that form a dense canopy. As I proceed further, the unique landscape unfurls like magic. To my left, the road is lined with hundreds of huge trees, with grey trunks, growing out of the water. Their thick intertwining respiratory roots, along with numerous arching branches cast a fantastic reflection in the water. The locals call it "Talambumaram" and vouch for the medicinal benefits of the oil extracted from it. Forest officials say the tree is akin to the Pandanus tree, often found near beaches.

Ayyanar Sunai is not exactly a coastal town. Yet the foliage is so thick here that it is difficult for sunlight to penetrate.

After the road takes a few more turns and curves, I come across another enchanting sight. The landscape changes and from a distance looks like a beach. The palm trees on the sandy stretch sway in the breeze. I decide to walk and soon realise that the stretch gives way to a forest, even more picturesque with its red sand dunes. I am told that the unusual formations are the result of erosion in the Western Ghats and the sand particles carried by the wind from the sea. The soil here is said to be rich in minerals.

Natural spring

The sharp sun prevents me from taking a longer walk. So I motor further down the narrow road which twists and terminates at a huge natural spring, apparently one which never runs dry and is said to possess healing properties. The water is still and glistens under the sun.

On one side of the water body is a temple dedicated to Ayyanar, a village deity, and, on the other, are the sand dunes amid a dense forest. With the temple here, one cannot call it a tranquil spot. Devotees throng the temple and litter the surroundings. As in many other places, here too civic facilities have been given a go-by, a blemish on the beautiful and rare confluence of water, forest and sand dunes. People not only come to worship at the temple but also take a dip in the spring in the hope that the waters will relieve them of their aches and pains. Small shops by the temple selling eatables, puja items, and the special oil from the talambumaram add to the chaos and the cacophony.

Yet, having said that, Ayyanar Sunai is still recommended to those wanting to experience the unique sights of Nature. If you are a genuine environment lover, you can still manage to find yourself a secluded spot where you can commune with Nature - the chirp of birds and the buzz of insects providing the background score.

Avoid hot afternoons and visit the Sunai when the sun is mild. Late evenings are better as both mercury and decibel levels dip and the illuminated temple adds to the charm of the place.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2005/06/25/stories/2005062502270700.htm

Kodumanal : Stone spell

Kodumanal: beautiful but neglected, says SOMA BASU

A BURIAL site for an RLT trip? Everybody thought I was crazy. Maybe I was, but this "ghostland" was no ordinary one. As I discovered, my destination was a place of tremendous archaeological value, historicity and antiquity. And so here is the story of this surprise of surprises by the banks of the river Noyyal.

Once known as Kodumanam and today as Kodumanal, it is a neglected area with remains of a megalithic settlement dating back to the 2nd Century B.C. Apparently, this was the centre the Romans used to visit to obtain beryls in the beginning of the Christian era! Excavations carried out three decades ago unearthed the importance of this place, but yet it remains like a forgotten chapter in history.

Kodumanal village is so unknown that I draw a blank whenever I ask for directions on my way from Dindigul to Dharmapuram to Kangeyam village. Everybody thinks I am confusing my destination with Kodumudi, famous for its three-in-one temple of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva. This sleepy hamlet lies between Coimbatore and Erode and exceptionally well-maintained tar-topped roads lead you to the site. The only people who were able to help with directions were the really elderly ones.

The credit of discovering the site, which extends over 50 hectares, goes to the State Archaeological Department. It acted on a tip off from a local person — Ramaswamy, manager of Thangaman temple in the village, near whose house stands one of the megalithic stones. It wasn't an easy task for Ramaswamy to convince people of the importance of the stones. He had spent years trying to tell people — even those in history, literature and other research departments of universities — that his village was no ordinary village.

Megalithic tombs

Finally, help came in the late Seventies. Excavations revealed layers of a megalithic-cum-early historic period. Two females and one male human skeleton were recovered from a pit burial, 300 megalithic tombs of different types and sizes were observed and recorded, Roman artefacts, iron melting furnaces, beads, shell bangles and pottery with the Brahmi script were recovered from the habitation deposits and burials.

It was believed that the megalithic communities flourished from 2nd Century B.C. to 2nd Century A.D. The inhabitants were highly skilled craftsmen specialising in making beads and high quality iron. The place is referred to in Sangam literature as an important industrial centre that had links with the Chola port city of Kaveripoompattinam.

But sadly, this place that traded in precious stones such as garnet and quartz and produced the finest iron (legend, probably apocryphal, has it that the rustless wonder called the Iron Pillar in Qutub Minar was produced here!) is uncared for today.

The neglect is so obvious that one finds several of the megalithic stones — a number that has dwindled to 100 for unknown reasons — hidden behind tall and wild plants and weeds.

The stones are scattered all over and children, ignorant of the site's importance, play and cause further damage to what survives. Ramaswamy and his son try to keep some spots with megalithic stones clean to preserve them for posterity.

Located by the north bank of river Noyyal, a tributary of the Cauvery, Kodumanal holds out plenty of charm. What did I do? I walked and walked around in the area with an eerie feeling of stepping into an ancestral past. Even gazing at the stones filled me with amazement.

I crossed the river on a makeshift wood plank to reach the village temple on the other side.

With coconut groves in the background and many water birds flying low over the river, I wondered why such a beautiful place that boasts of so much history should be allowed to decay. Would writing an RLT help in some way to restore its diminishing glory?

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2005/03/19/stories/2005031902020100.htm

Thiruvakkarai : Forest of Brown

Thiruvakkarai: Yes, if you think fossils are fun, says PRASSANA SRINIVASAN

TURNED ON by wood fossils? Nor am I. But Thiruvakkarai is the chosen destination for the Road Less Travelled this week and while gathering information about it, I cannot help regretfully noting that it is none of the following. A forgotten hill resort, a spit of virgin beach, the romantic ruins of a fort - the kind of places that RLT columns cover or ought to anyway.

Armed with my assignment, and some recently acquired knowledge about petrified trees, I hop on a bus to Tindivanam, consoling myself that this place I didn't know even existed since yesterday is at least not a long way away. Situated on the road between Tindivanam and Pondicherry, Thiruvakkarai seems to be better known for two places of worship - the Vakkara Kali Amman and the Mailam Murugan temples. But my assignment lies some five kilometres away - at the country's first wood fossil park.

The autorickshaw driver who ferries me from Tindivanam to the destination simply cannot understand why I am here to see the park and not the temples. He uses the time afforded by the bumpy 30-km ride to make me see light and then eventually gives up, probably convinced I am either ungodly or a little soft in the head.

The National Fossil Wood Park, which is maintained by the Geological Survey of India, announces itself without much fanfare. Two blue-coloured boards with factual information in English and Tamil are the only welcoming signs. A line of lush green trees, interspersed by small bushes, lead into the park. Or a part of it, to be precise. The wood fossils are spread over 247 acres in nine separate enclaves around Thiruvakkarai. The portion fenced off and formally open to the public is relatively small.

So what do you actually see? Walk along the meandering and narrow path through this petrified forest - which is an estimated 40 to 50 million years old — and trunks of various shapes lie strewn and half-buried in the soil. They are brown, look very much like wood but are as hard as rock. Some of the fossils, which are really trees that have petrified into stone due to a long-drawn out chemical process, have annular rings that reveal their age at the time of their death. No one is allowed to touch the fossils, which are guarded zealously by the lone security guard. To prevent even the very thought of doing so, the sides of the path are blocked by a hedge of cut branches with sharp dissuasive thorns.

Angiosperms and tamarindus are the main flora in this forest of brown, which is ringed by green fields and empty verdant spaces. The bottomline? Head out to Thiruvakkarai if you have a have a scientific frame of mind and are looking to educate yourself. There is a wealth of information you can pick up from visiting this park, which is now trying to promote itself as a tourist destination. However, if you are the type that prefers chilling out, then you had better settle for some place else - perhaps the one covered in next week's RLT?

How to get there

Accessible by road either from Pondicherry or Tindivanam. Thiruvakkarai lies on the road that connects the two.

Where to stay:

Don't even bother looking in Thiruvakkarai. Nearest accommodation in Pondy and Tindivanam.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2004/01/17/stories/2004011700020100.htm

Thandigudi : Beauty at its peak

Swirling mist, winding paths and lush vegetation... the hills are a trekker's paradise, says SOMA BASU

PHOTOS: SOMA BASU

SERENE AND SCENIC Deserted home of a tribal.

On learning that Thandigudi is also known as "Aadha Kodai" (half Kodaikanal!), I set out on this RLT with mixed feelings. Forty-five km from Kodaikanal, on the road to Dindigul, is this revenue village that has an old- world charm at an elevation of 1,500 metres. But I could hardly believe the package of surprises that lay in store for me atop the hill.

First, the journey. As I took the Dindigul Road from Madurai and on to Batlagundu and the Chittaravu forest check-post, the heat and dust gave way to cool verdure. The tranquillity of the drive that wound up 23 hairpin bends on the Thandigudi ghat road was shattered by a convoy of cars. Allowing them to overtake, I followed the cavalcade at my pace only to find them parked next to the State Horticulture Farm and the Forest Department guest house, roughly six km short of Thandigudi.

Casual queries revealed an elephant, apparently ailing, had died in the morning bringing the Assistant Conservator of Forests, the Forest Ranger, Forest Guard and other staff to the spot. With the public banned from entering the area, I decided against wasting my time here and proceeded to my RLT destination.

Thandigudi, surrounded by the green Palani hills, looked like many other mini hill stations that have been written about in this column, including Sirumalai, Pachalur and Yercaud. Besides coffee and cardamom plantations, the landscape is filled with vanilla, pepper, hill banana, citron and medicinal plants. Carnations and other varieties of flowers added a dash of colour to the greenery. I chose to explore the place on foot.

Enveloped in small shola forests, Thandigudi used to have many trekking routes. But now, they are all damaged by prolonged wet spells and the wild growth of flora. Wild boar, barking deer, bison and sambar are occasionally spotted here and in the surrounding evergreen forests. But the department no longer allows trekkers into the forest. Only its staff goes on an occasional recce.

I stuck to the tarred road and followed a sign post which said Watch Tower, Pannaikadu. For city slickers it is a refreshing change to trek in the hills.

Visual treat

The winding road leading to the hilltop.

The backdrop formed by rolling green hills with a dreamy mist swirling up kept me busy with my camera. To reach the watch tower, I had to take a small detour on a slippery muddy track into the forest. The only wildlife I managed to spot was a pair of tiger lizards. But before I could photograph them, they disappeared into the bushes.

Work on the watch tower is yet to be completed. But a labourer at the site assured me it was safe to climb up and enjoy the view.

And it was captivating indeed. The lush vegetation was a visual treat and the long, winding road cutting through the hills was picturesque. In the valley below, the Maruthanathi, a squarish water body, reflected the silver rays of the sun as they tried to penetrate the grey clouds. A dewy haze filled the area that seemed painted blue. The worker pointed to a peak called the "periya malai", perhaps because it looks the tallest and to a cluster of rocks called "ponnu mapillai rock". Taking a closer look at the rock I realised it looked like a bride and groom, surrounded by friends!

As I prepared to return, the worker told me to check out the echoing rock and the dolmen cave. I skipped the first, but took a dekko at the now deserted ancient home of a tribal.

Walking down, I passed by the Central Coffee Research Station, the Indian Cardamom Research Institute and the Regional Spice Board Research Station.

Thandigudi may have been dubbed `Aadha Kodai' but the beauty and serenity here cannot quite be experienced in the more famous Kodaikanal.

How to get there

Thandigudi can also be reached by Palani-Oddanchatram check-post. It is 56 km from Dindigul, 45 km from Kodaikanal, 88 km from Palani, 97 km from Madurai and 126 km from Thekkady.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2006/10/16/stories/2006101600290300.htm

Alagarkoil - Bison valley : Deep in the woods

For a quiet walk through thick forests, says SOMA BASU

PHOTO: SOMA BASU

ENVELOPED IN SILENCE At Azhagarmalai

To be honest, this was not meant to be an RLT.

It began with a visit to the much celebrated Vishnu temple, Alagarkovil, 22 km northeast of Madurai.But to my delight, the trip ended in a trek on a relatively lesser-known route in the forests of the Azhagar hills. That's how Azhagarmalai became an RLT.

Alargarkoil is situated at the foothills on the southern end of Azhagarmalai and around it are the ruins of an ancient fortified town.

From the temple, there is a narrow path uphill which takes you to another temple in the wilderness, an abode of Lord Subrahmanya. The four-km distance can also be covered by road and it ends in a park of medicinal plants.

The park is managed jointly by the Forest Department and Bangalore-based Foundation for Rehabilitation of Local Health Traditions. You need prior permission to look at in situ conservation plants.

To the right of the park, a flight of 70-odd steps takes you to Lord Muruga's shrine, also famous for a small spring called Noopura Gangai. The water is considered to be as holy as the Ganges. According to myth, Brahma poured water from his kamandalam on Vishnu's feet during his `trivikrama avataram.' A few drops fell off Vishnu's `silambu' (anklet) and flowed out as the Silambu river.

Another three miles uphill is a waterfall, which derives its name from the ornament and hence is called Noopura Gangai.

Though it is supposed to be a perennial waterfall, the spring at the temple below is dry now.

But devotees get to bathe in a restricted supply of this holy water, which reaches them through six taps installed in the spring.

Funny as it may seem or sound, nobody seems to mind, as a continuous stream of devotees undergoes the ritual under watchful eyes of temple guards and monkeys. Yes, monkeys. They are there everywhere and you have to tackle them before finding your way.

Bats everywhere

But before taking the steps to Noopura Gangai, look up at the sky and you can spot colonies of flying fox (the Indian fruit-eating bat) hanging upside down from the trees.

They can be seen on any fruit-bearing tree, resting, nesting or flying over it repeatedly. There are hundreds of them almost forming a dark cloud against the sunlight.

After paying obeisance to the Lord, we encountered a bemusing sight on the temple terrace. Scores of men, women and children — and not to forget our simian brothers — were having a picnic. But, what was disturbing, however, was the mess they created all around — polythene wrappers, plastic cups, empty water bottles and waste food strewn all over.

But if you overlook the foreground and look beyond, a lush landscape meets the eye.

Peeping over the wall, we spotted a muddy track cutting through the grass, shrubs, plants and trees. We decided to scale the wall and found ourselves inside a forest.

As we walked deeper into the forest, the path became prominent. Enveloped in silence, the only sound we could hear was the crunch of dried leaves under our shoes.

Suddenly, a team member hushed everybody up and asked us to listen to the chirping of a bird.

"That's a large green barbet," he whispered excitedly.

Pursuing ornithology as a hobby, he told us we were in the Silambar valley, which is free of biotic influence. "This place is hardly known, you will not see a soul here."

I learnt later that there are three routes from different valleys — Silambar, Periyaruvi and Bison — that all meet at the highest point in the area called Phalaianaiparai at a height of 880m. The trek from Silambar valley to this point through the Azhagar forest is the shortest at six km. Bison Valley, which has to be approached from the north-eastern side of Noopura Gangai, has a fair population of bison and is about eight km.

The longest trek is 12 km in the Periyaruvi valley. All the three paths merge at `End Point,' which is a plateau at the base of the peak.

The three routes are also partially motorable but to go deep inside the forest, the department's permission is required.

In our unplanned march though Silambar valley, we couldn't go too far either, given the restrictions.

But I learnt that the area has been identified for bird watching. The white browed bulbul, orioles, changeable hawk eagle, shama and barbet, besides the migrating birds during winter season, are sighted here regularly. Animal life is negligible.

With the sun setting, we too decided to return, especially since the possible presence of large snakes scared us.

We walked back in silence, through the jungle of banyan tree, the kiluvai tree, kunguliam and itchi maram. Perhaps it is a good way to round off a visit to the temple — a quiet walk through Nature at its pristine best.

How to reach

From Madurai, take the Alagarkoil Road.

The ascent to the plateau from Silambar valley starts at Natham Road. For Bison valley, take Alagarkoil-Melur Road and turn right from Kidaritatti village.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2006/07/08/stories/2006070800440200.htm

Chinnampathy - Vettu Maduvu Aruvi : Oh, What a fall it was!

A tryst with Nature, writes PANKAJA SRINIVASAN

PHOTOS: K. ANANTHAN

ADVENTUROUS TREK The waterfall

"Don't let go of my hand, no matter what," he says to me. "Not till death do us part, pal," I mutter under my breath as I tighten my grip. And the end seems to be a very real possibility as I sway and teeter and desperately try not to go over the edge, in more ways than one...

After a long gap, the prospect of an RLT into the great outdoors to a waterfall seemed lovely. So our photographer Ananthan and I set out to discover the beauties of Vettu Maduvu Aruvi — a day's trip no more. The start was propitious enough, with our car speeding away from the heat and dust towards the beautiful green hills of the Coimbatore range.

At the railway gate, I watch idly as the guard plucks a pavakkai growing wild, examines it and puts it away — a surprise for the wife no doubt. The Shoranur-Coimbatore train hurtles past and the silence is overwhelming.

Forest guard C. Renganathan awaits us at the check post. A sense of importance as an escort comprising one milkman, two anti-poaching personnel and, of course, the forest guard is provided.

Jumbo walk

This is elephant terrain. The halo diminishes somewhat as one watches the team arming themselves with small explosives and scythes, the former to scare away the elephants and the latter to cut a path through the jungles.

"Totally out, madam," says one of the escorts as he recounts with relish how his compatriot had been trampled to death by an elephant, just where we were headed, and he does a little stomping dance to better illustrate how the deed was done.

A last longing look at our car and we start our march. Hardly a short walk away and we stop to remove our shoes. It is a grove of trees with bells hanging from them — offerings to the residing deity Muniappan. Tribals pray before they enter the jungle. Just beyond is the Walayar river and we cautiously step into the waters to get across. In my heart, I am longing to suggest that this itself could be a great RLT, why go further? But, it is too late and we are now climbing, climbing, climbing, and then some more...

Enter the jungle

This is a perfect habitat for elephants as there is plenty of food, water and minimal human intervention. As I clutch my side and gasp my way onwards and upwards, every rock looks like a baleful elephant and every rustle of leaves sounds like an imminent charge. At this juncture, Sivamani the milkman enlightens us about the malaipaambu that also make their home here. So, now, I also have to watch out for pythons.

Breathtaking

Everything looks freshly painted in shades of green. Every time we stop to catch our breath, there is an impromptu botany class — it is amazing what a treasure trove of information the `simple folks' have and in contrast how little we know about nature, enveloped as we are by smoke, stink and squalor of city life.

It is time to catch our breath again, this time for another reason — a spectacular view of a waterfall in the distance. That is where we are headed. We quicken our steps as we know that a treat awaits us. And, reach a good two hours later.

The forest

For a want of a better adjective, it is awesome. A cascade of water crashes down and splashes up again. We reach the spot. On one side a quiet river, flanked by trees with overhanging branches, bubbles and gurgles over friendly round rocks and then suddenly, as if realising it is late for an appointment, it gathers speed and rushes off in a hurry to the spot where it metamorphoses into a great big waterfall.

Footloose

It is the best pedicure anywhere in the world, as you dip your feet into the water. It is freezing cold at first and then pure bliss. Silky water washes over your poor urban feet and with only a grasshopper overseeing the take off and landing of hovercraft-like insects, one could stay there forever.

But return we have to and once again we cross the stream and this time we have to go down the hill all the way, negotiating forest, thorny bushes, red ants, elephants and god knows what other perils. If I live to tell the tale, my odyssey would be the subject matter of my next RLT.

How to go

Permission of the DFO has to be sought before visiting Vettu Maduvu Aruvi. Call the DFO's office at 0422-2302925. It lies off the Coimbatore-Palakkad Road. Just before the Walayar Bridge, take the road going right towards Chinnampathy. Drive on till you reach the forest check post (approximately one km from the main road). From this point, the foothills are about six km.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2006/12/16/stories/2006121600190200.htm