Monday, March 10, 2008

Dhimbam : Journey into the heart of the jungle

Get hypnotised by the calm, says PANKAJA SRINIVASAN

PHOTOS: K. ANANTHAN

WATCH THEM IN THE WILD Spotted deer.

Some wise guy on the Travel and Living Channel said, "It is not the destination, but the journey there that matters." This RLT was something like that. The destination was "Tiger Farm", a spot tigers frequented once upon a time. With ridiculously improbable visions of cats roaming, romping and slumbering in the sun, we depart for Thalamalai, somewhere in the Sathyamangalam forests.

But first things first and breakfast is at Sri Ramavilas at Sathyamangalam. Hot pongal and vadai followed by coffee and a friendly conversation with R. Venkatraman, the owner, who says R. K. Narayan has eaten here. Then, safe in the belief that Bannari Amman is watching over us, (we visit her temple in the foothills), we set off.

The fun begins when we start the climb — 27 hairpin bends. We stop to watch a huge container struggling to make the turn. "Ever forward, never backward" says a pithy message emblazoned on the lorry. No wonder, all that trouble to reverse! I turn my attention to the other side of the road where a terse "Sound Okay Horn," is all the luxury of words that truck owner will allow himself.

Soon, we reach Dhimbam. There, we take a left turn and drive into thick forests. Surprisingly, the road is great. And, oh the silence... there are just a few birds exchanging notes, only occasionally. Suddenly, a streak of orange as a pack of furry creatures crosses our paths. Sennaai (wild dogs) says our driver. Before we can aim and shoot, they are gone, but not before flashing us looks of dislike.

I actually feel like the paparazzi — rude, insensitive and intrusive. Take the Grey Wagtail, in the rock pool where we have pulled up. It is minding its own business — absorbed in some complex preening ritual and we stare at its every move as it flits from rock to rock, looks at itself in the water, takes a sip or two and does a little happy jig. I wonder, if it really doesn't know we are there ogling at it. Or, may be it does. Watching the bird and sitting amidst mind numbing silence, I actually doze off for a few minutes!



A Brahminy kite at Thalamalai.

That is the greatest thing about this RLT. It is all about breathing in clean, sweet air and being hypnotised by the utter silence. It is a lovely, dreamy feeling. And, it is an ornithologist's heaven. Some spotted deer complete the feeling of euphoria.

But, we still have to see the gambolling tigers! And, of course, we don't. Tiger Farm is just an old bungalow built by a white man, near a pool where tigers once met over a drink. The yellow-washed bungalow looks intriguing. But, it belongs to someone and the caretaker is unwilling to let us in. So, we look at it from outside, and move on even as a Brahminy kite makes a repast of a short-lived reptile.

Permission: It is a protected area so contact the DFO's Office at 04295-220312 before you set off.

How to get there: From Coimbatore drive up to Sathyamangalam from where Dhimbam is approximately 25 km. At Dhimbam, turn left. The forest drive begins almost immediately.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2007/01/20/stories/2007012001270400.htm

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