Monday, March 10, 2008

Govindapperi : Far from the madding crowd

Much more than just a village, says SOMA BASU


LUSH LANDSCAPES Govindapperi PHOTO: SOMA BASU

Enquire about Govindapperi and chances are it will be dismissed as any other unheard of village or place. Unless, of course, you are willing to do a bit of exploring, which I did. However, I must admit, there were many moments when I almost gave up the search.

It is neither easy to find nor describe the place. Despite proper directions, it took me all of six hours to cover the 167 km stretch from Madurai.

Govindapperi is a small village, tucked away deep in rural Tamil Nadu, where farmlands stretch for acres in all directions. The Western Ghats form a magnificent backdrop. Small waterfalls appear like silver streaks in the distance; and the watercourses through the fields and the grasslands, create a unique pattern on the landscape.

Open fields

At Govindapperi, you can take a tour of a farm with peacocks following you. The place gets plenty of rainfall and enjoys pleasant weather round the year.

The 400-odd acres of open fields, criss-crossed by small and big water retention basins, irrigation channels, streams and embankments, belong to a Kerala-based architect. When he bought the land in 1993, it had sparse vegetation, was overgrazed and prone to fires. It took 10 years of nurturing to restore and re-vegetate the land and transform it into lush fields. So much so, Govindapperi merits a place on an adventure traveller's map.

Apart from diverse fauna, the region has grown into a bird watcher's paradise. On reaching, I take a tour of the farm accompanied by Joseph, manager of the Mayura Lodge, the only accommodation available here.

The bungalows

The owner has built two bungalows, which are a curious mix of Kerala and Tamil Nadu architecture. Spartan but comfortable, my room offers a beautiful view.

As we walk across fields of organically grown tomatoes, egg plant, okra, ginger and lemon, I am thrilled to see different kinds of birds with brilliant plumage. Joseph rattles off their names — laughing dove, wood sand piper, red-wattle lapwing, black ibis, little cormorant, Oriental magpie, robin, spot-billed pelican, jungle babbler, purple sunbird, weavers and pipits...

On the fenced wall, I spot chameleons perched on the pillars. We walk around with half-a-dozen peacocks following us and hares jumping across our path. The air smells sweet, and the cool breeze is soothing. We reach a lake that is dotted with coconut and palm trees. Farmers use the water from the rain-fed lake to irrigate their fields. There's plenty for Nature lovers and trekkers at Govindapperi. Tiger, deer and boar are reportedly sighted here, given its proximity to the Kalakkad-Mundanthurai Sanctuary. You can enjoy a day's outing in the pristine surroundings of Govindapperi, which is by and large untouched by modern technology. You can also stay here for a few days and enjoy some guided tours. For that, you will have to make advance bookings at the Mayura Lodge.

How to reach there: Govindapperi is 167 km from Madurai; 137 km from Thiruvananthapuram and 67 km from Tirunelveli junction. Take the NH 208 to Tenkasi and turn off the highway on the road to Ambasamudram. Eighteen km later, you'll reach Kadaiyam. Turn right here and cross Mandiyur and Rajangapuram before reaching Govindapperi. While asking for directions, ask for the Kerala bungalow not the Mayura Lodge.

For accommodation (inclusive of food), contact Joseph (04634-240294) or Rajesh George (0484-2706475-6). The peak season is from October to March.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2005/09/24/stories/2005092401550300.htm

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