Sunday, March 9, 2008

Karaikudi : Heritage Heartland

Karaikudi showcases the architectural splendour of the Chettiars


HAVING SETTLED on visiting Karaikudi, I am amazed by the number of people who proffer the same advice. Visit "aayiram jannal veedu," they urge. So, as I head for the land of the Chettiars from Madurai, my mind — during the 86-km ride on a highway that alternates maddeningly between potholed and silken smooth stretches — is fixed on the famed 1,000-windowed house.

Once in Karaikudi, finding the house is a lark. An ageing Mr. Alagappan lets you inside the 20,000 sq.ft mansion battered by time, weather and lack of maintenance. "My father built it in 1941 for Rs.1,25,000. It has 24 rooms and five big halls," he says. He adds, "But it has only 200 doors and windows." Even so, the architectural splendour of the house is hardly diminished. Mr. Alagappan does not allow any shooting to take place.

In contrast, the fabulous Chettiar houses in Athankudi village are a pet location for directors.

Straying into the lanes that criss-cross Karaikudi, it becomes obvious that the 1,000-windowed house is but one among the many old buildings. The townscape is at once fascinating and disturbing. The enormous mansions that gave the community their name, "Nattukottai Chettiar" are incongruously juxtaposed with structures that are prosaic in their modernity. The majority of the old homes remain locked, silent edifices evoking sympathy and wonder about the years gone by.

The best thing you could do on a day out in Karaikudi is to go mansion-hopping. However, if you are religious, you might want to consider taking a whirlwind tour of the nine Siva shrines, on the basis of which the entire Chettiar clan is divided into nine groups. These temples are located between Pudukkottai in the north and Sivaganga in the south. The only Vishnu temple is at Ariyakudi village, which is also known as South Tirupati, is worth a visit.

Grand residences stand as relics not only in Karaikudi but also in the surrounding 76 villages. A 52-year-old house belonging to M.L.Meyyappa Chettiar, the 81-year-old film distributor for AVM productions in Chennai, teems with guests for a wedding. Apparently, such `fortresses' still have a utility on special occasions. "The 1,50,000-strong Chettiar population is scattered now but we return to our homes for such functions and cherish the reunion. Our houses have to be retained for traditional celebrations," he says.

Each house is a world in itself, complete with the mandatory `thinnais', the valavu and the surrounding corridors with rooms branching out. The degree of ornateness is a reflection of the level of prosperity.

The door at the entrance of a massive mansion called "keela koratiyar" is estimated to be worth Rs. 50 lakhs today! When looking at these fabulous houses becomes tiring, you might want to chill out in one. The "Bangala", a 75-year-old property, belonging to the M.S.M. Meyappan family is elegant and has recently been classified as a heritage hotel. The boutique hotel, an improbable mix of the rustic and the refined, is a perfect environment to relax in. The Bangala is a good base to walk around Karaikudi's streets, check out the quaint shops selling gold, silver, antique furniture and Chettinad saris or visit the Chettinad Palace in Kanadukathan (12 km away). Karaikudi and the surrounding areas grow on you with time, so do try and earmark at least a few days for a visit. Also, pack a camera with a decent zoom lens — this place is a photographer's delight.

TRAVEL TIPS

Road: Easily accessible from Madurai, Trichy and Tanjore. Frequent State Transport buses are available.

Rail: Train connections to Karaikudi from Chennai, Rameswaram, Quilon, Nellai, Trichy, Nagoor and Mayilathurai.

Air: Nearest airports are at Madurai and Trichy.

Where to stay: The Bangala on Devakottai Road, Senjai. (tariff : Rs.5,400 for double occupancy) For reservations contact Chettinad Heritage Hotels in Chennai. Phone: 044-24934851/24934912) Hotel Subhalakshmi: 04565-2437010, Hotel Annapoorna: 04565-223167

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2003/12/13/stories/2003121300040100.htm


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