Sunday, March 9, 2008

Vallam Caves : Secrets in stone

Vallam Caves: Strictly for time travellers, says PRINCE FREDERICK


WALKING AROUND Vallam Caves, I can almost hear the footsteps of my ancestors. The caves, which lie two kilometres east of Chinglepet town and are reached via a dusty winding pathway off TKM (Thirukazhukundram) Road, are carved out of giant rocks that sit atop an arid hill.

Those who worked for King Mahendravarman-I once used the twisting track that leads to them. The caves, which now are a place of worship, contain a Tamil inscription that sheds some light on this Pallava king. Dating between 610 and 675 AD, this is said to be among the oldest Tamil inscriptions.

There are three caves in all, all of them neatly scooped out from the rocks and watched over by fierce-looking dwarapalakas (guards); the main cave, which is bigger than the others, is decorated with well-proportioned stone columns, one of which contains the old inscription.

The history

Archaeologists M. Lockwood and Gift Siromoney did some pioneering work on the history of the caves, which they visited over three decades ago. They were particularly struck by some of the dwarapalakas in basso-relievo at the entrances, which had unusual and curiously shaped horns. Could they be based on representations of primitive tribes such as the Gonds and Nagas who wore horns? Are the horned dwarapalakas humanised forms of Nandis? Are the horns actually snakes that sit on Nagaraja's head?

Such questions are open-ended and continue to intrigue visitors to Vallam Caves. Many of them are students of archaeology and history who conduct their field studies here. Students from schools in and around Chingelpet are also brought here in order to make history come alive for them.

Although ringed by hills and located near an artificial pond, Vallam Caves is not a pretty spot. But the caves, which lie in a half-forgotten village, hold a charm for time-travellers interested in unscrambling the past.

How To Get There

Take a train to Chinglepet and walk the couple of kilometres that separate the railhead and the caves.

You may do the same after taking a bus from Koyambedu.


Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2005/01/29/stories/2005012901210100.htm

Additional Links: http://indhiya-suttrum-vaaliban.blogspot.com/2007/01/caves-inaround-chennai-2-vallam-caves.html


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