| Thirumayam: there's splendour in these ruins, says SOMA BASU |
MY CURIOSITY was kindled every time I travelled on the State highway that connects Madurai to Tiruchi. A lone cannon atop a raised platform, which peeped innocuously out of the ruins of a fort raised on a hillock, never failed to do this to me. The last time I was on the highway, my curiosity got the better of me: I stopped.
A blue board on the road to the fort from the highway informed me that I was on my way to a heritage town — Thirumayam. It was an unusually quiet summer morning. The fort is ringed with houses and there are rock-cut temples in each of its corners. The fiery glow of the burning sun was unpleasant and it didn't get any better as I decided to explore this living heritage, one of the four protected monuments under the Archaeological Survey of India in Pudukkottai district.
There must be a more leisurely way of doing this fort, but such citadels of the past have become part of today's touch-and-go tourism. Beaten by weather, it is in a state of disrepair and the vandalism that has marred the ruins is really saddening.
But it was difficult not to feel a sense of history nevertheless. A five-rupee ticket took me inside this 17th Century structure. A flight of rocky steps transported you to a fort perched on a hillock-top. The fort is said to be built in 1687 by Vijaya Regunatha Thevar, the Sethupathy of Ramanathapuram. History stares at you from every stone. To enjoy, you need to sit down and soak in the atmosphere.
As I walked through the ruins, I heard a voice behind me: "Look and appreciate the old craftsmanship, this is among the well preserved citadels." It was the man from the ticket counter enthusiastically catching up with me. Not many people come here, he told me, justifying his absence from the ticket counter. But during weekends, some families and youngsters arrive to get away from it all, he added.
He turned out to be a useful guide. History has it that the fort played an important role during the Tondaiman rule in Pudukkottai. During World War II, the fort was used as an arsenal by the British Army. Originally, it seems there was an additional fortification that ringed the existing structure with seven concentric walls and a broad moat all around. Today, the remnants appear to be balanced solidly on huge rocks. The walls above the rocks, which enclose the main citadel, are well preserved.
As the only visitor, there was a luxurious sense of anonymity. After exploring the fort and reconstructing in my mind what it must have looked like in its days of glory, there was not much to do but sit under the shade of a tree or enjoy the cool natural caverns. You can also look out of the jagged edges of the fort walls or peep through the square spy holes to see the spread of townships and assess the importance of such a strategic location.
I walked up to the platform that overlooks acres of green fields, and a mesh of newly constructed buildings interspersed with coconut, palm and banana trees on all sides. It was a pretty scene. It might have been prettier if I was not squinting in the bright sunshine. My friendly volunteer then pointed to a small water body, which is fenced now. The story goes that hidden under the water there are eight steps that lead to an underground tank. The water in it is believed to be as holy as the teertham in Rameswaram.
As for the temples around the fort, there is a rock-cut Siva Temple assignable to the times of Muttarayars of the 8th Century. There is a Vishnu temple, and there are also shrines of Bhairava, Hanuman and Ganesha, guardian deities of the fort. This monument is well worth a visit. Get acquainted with some history before coming, pack a pair of sunglasses and, if you plan to spend a few hours in the ruins, remember to pack a hamper.
How to get there:
Thirumayam Fort is 19 km from Pudukkottai town, which lies on the Chennai-Rameswaram railway line. The district is rich in archaeological sites, one of which was covered in an earlier RLT — Sittanavasal. There are decent hotels in Pudukkotai and day trips can be undertaken to these various sites with help from guides.
Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2004/09/25/stories/2004092500510100.htm
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