| Water, water everywhere and quiet it flows, writes SUBHA J RAO |
RIVER, ROCKS, FIELDS, GROVES... It all makes for an idyllic setting at Nerur and Velur
After heaving myself onto unruly rocks and trekking to a windswept fort, it's time for a change of scene. So, Nerur. The Cauvery gurgles merrily down this village in Karur district.
Lush green fields, twittering birds, a glimmering sheet of water, a lone kingfisher perched on an electric wire, my mind and camera go click, click, click...
For ages, Nerur has been known only to locals and those who venerate the 18th Century saint Sadasiva Brahmendrar (his samadhi is near the banks of the river). Luckily, its rustic charm has been protected over the years.
The river is what makes Nerur so attractive. We take the longer route from Velayudhampalayam (20 km away, through Vaangal) and drive through paddy fields, groves of coconut and fragrant betel leaves, swaying fields of korai grass, banana plantations and village after village where harvesting is on.
Dried paddy has been spread on the road waiting to be de-husked for free by vehicles passing by. We do our share and then move on to a quieter part of the village. Here is the samadhi. Absolute silence prevails and even the rustling of leaves sounds loud. Enter the well-maintained compound and the fragrance of the creamy yellow nagalinga flower, shaped like a serpent, envelops you.
The silence inside is more intense. A group of five is meditating around a sari-covered tree. The mediation hall is partly open to the sky and in the middle of a grove of sorts. A solitary lamp lights up the area.
The river is a short drive from here. You could even walk the distance. The rains have been good this year, and so, the Cauvery is in full flow. Two small streams rich with frolicking bite-sized fish and tadpoles lead the way to the river.
The small sand bank in the middle is home to an endless variety of cowries and mollusc shells which I can't resist collecting. The unending stretch of water, the samadhi, coconut groves and the sky painted a uniform blue is beautiful. Then, I succumb to the child in me and tentatively dip my toes in the cold water. An infant from the village, waiting on the banks for his father, wonders what the fuss is all about.
This is also windy territory. So, anchor your belongings to the bank with a stick before you hit the water. I try to recall all I know about swimming and put them to practical use. Since the water can get deep, I stick to the shore. Even here, it is chest-deep. The water is clean and unpolluted and the river is free from human interference.
One more river
During the course of this RLT, we also visit Paramathi Velur in Namakkal district. The Cauvery flows along this town, nourishing the land and keeping it fertile. Velur is known for its troika of ancient Shiva temple situated on the banks of the river, the crematorium in front of the temple and the river itself. It is said to be the only place after Kashi where a temple and crematorium face each other. Drive through betel and ready-for-harvest banana groves to reach the crumbling Shiva temple, dating back 600 years or more. After decades of neglect, it is now being renovated. The water in this stretch of the river is not as clean it used to be, with pollutants and detergents marring the once-clear surface. The view from the bank is great though. Sit for a while and see locals and fishermen go about their job carrying coracles on their shoulders.
How to get there
Nerur is 15 km from Karur. Paramathi Velur lies along the National Highway 7 and is 24 km from Karur.
Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2006/07/31/stories/2006073100320300.htm
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