Dindigul Fort : Pillow Rock

Dindigul Fort: forgotten and in disrepair, says SOMA BASU

GASPING FOR breath, I haul myself up the 800-odd steps to reach this 17th Century citadel built by the Naicker kings in Dindigul. A voice from behind catches me by surprise. "Lafda mangta hai kya, madam?" ("Inviting trouble?") I soon realise what he means. A 360-degree scan does not show up a single soul atop this isolated granite rock fort, which rises over 360 feet above ground level. I introduce myself. He says he heard me do that at the ticket counter below and that is why he followed to ask me to be careful. I thank him and proceed to have a closer look at the strong walls of this legendary fort that took 54 years to build and was strategically important in several military operations.

Pillow in stone

Approaching from Madurai, the huge rock emerges on the horizon like a "Dhindu" (Pillow). Hence the city's name - Dindigul. Amidst paddy fields and coconut groves, it stands out like a welcome symbol, one kilometre short of the city centre. History has it that the Naik King Muthu Krishnappa Naicker started building the Rock Fort in 1605. From 1623 to 1659, Mannar Thirumalai Naicker ruled and completed construction of the fort, which later came under the rule of Tipu Sultan. The Archaeological Survey of India's familiar blue board declares the fort a "protected monument" and collects Rs. 5 for an entry ticket (Rs.100 for foreigners). Absence of tourist guides and security guards further affirms the disinterest of the department and the people.

Few visitors

The fort receives few visitors - mainly the odd group of college students and the occasional foreign tourist. The steep climb is possibly a deterrent and the steps are so small that it is easy to trip over them. I walk around the tunnels and trenches en route that reveal how meticulously the ancient fort was constructed to safeguard its inhabitants.

From the ruins within the fort walls, I can see structures (perhaps used as arsenal depots or animal stables) and damaged mandapams (decorated with carved stone columns, complete with dwarapalakas). I go up to the cannon point and look through the spy holes imagining the sound, light and speed of the fireballs that were released.

The fort is known to have played a prominent role during the battles of the Marathas and also of Hyder Ali, who escorted his wife and five-year-old son Tipu here in 1755. From 1784 to 1790, the fort was under the rule of Tipu Sultan. His chief Commandant, Syed Ibrahim, under whose care the fort was entrusted, constructed several additional rooms, fortified the walls and repaired many parts.

After Tipu Sultan was defeated in the Mysore War in 1790, the British took control of the fort. Hyder Ali had also constructed a mosque beneath the fort for his soldiers. A temple was later built on the tip of the rock. But today, the fort is a picture of neglect and has become a haven for young couples.

As I take in the view from the top, I imagine how the fort must have brimmed with activity in its years of glory. Today, Dindigul Rock is no more than a landmark that you pass by on the highway.

With a little effort and planning, it could have been converted into a proper tourist attraction. But then, had this been done, Dindigul Rock would perhaps not find a place in these columns.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2005/04/02/stories/2005040202440100.htm