| The 150-year-old bungalow offers three rooms and a colonial suite with breakfast |
OLD WORLD CHARM Patricia Guest House
It all happens in a moment. The sky changes hue, the landscape alters, even the familiar turns quaint as we reach our destination. Pondicherry is a potpourri of people, where history meets legend and a confluence of cultures exists. We go to Pondicherry in search of new landmarks — to look beyond Auroville and the Aurobindo Ashram. The French influence is almost omnipresent. You can sense it in the streets, in the red kapis of the policemen, in the architecture, the cuisine and even in the accents. It is not just the French, but even the Roman connections that are evident here. Excavations unearthed in Arikamedu, on the outskirts of Pondicherry, have proved that the Romans had settled here. Legends associate this seaside town with the ancient Hindu sage Agastya. The 300-odd temples here are testimony to this. It is difficult to typify this town that smacks of the colonial era and yet is so distinctively Indian. Even more difficult is to find accommodation in this weekend getaway, that too on a Saturday afternoon. We drive past a few resorts that boast a sea view, cross many a cottage in and around Auroville and enter the heart of the city, looking for colonial bungalows which offer guest house facilities. Meandering our way through the maze of streets, we set out in search of a heritage guesthouse, Patricia Guest House.
Enquiries lead us to a nondescript door on Rue Romain Rolland shrouded by greenery. We cannot see beyond the huge compound wall, not a soul is around. After a brief wait, the portals open to unveil two portions of a renovated old bungalow, more than a century old, enclosed by foliage. A small tank of water has become a fishpond, even as a huge metal pot hangs over it, supported by a rope.
A series of large pillars support the open hall, which serves as both the living and the dining room. An eclectic array of curios and antique furniture dots the space - from seashells to pottery, from colourful lampshades to terracotta dolls, the mélange is unique. At one end is an antique wooden swing touching the red oxide flooring, at the other are petite breakfast tables and chairs, overlooking the garden.
Run by Patricia Michel and her son, Thierry, this guesthouse currently offers three rooms and a colonial suite with breakfast. Thierry recollecting his childhood days says this 150-year-old bungalow owned by his grandfather was once an arena for cockfights. A narrow staircase leads up to two levels, to the rooms with attached bathrooms and private verandahs. Our room is on the first level which is spacious and has the same feel as the hall downstairs. A huge wooden bed covered with mosquito nets is the first thing that meets the eye. The second part of the guesthouse is the heritage portion with a kitchen and a living room. A vast expansive suite with a private garden and a lounge is now being renovated. It's almost a house in itself with a living room and a dining area enclosed in that space. Scattered with antiques and artefacts, Thierry calls it a colonial suite. Every item has been carefully arranged, be it the wooden furniture or the dry flowers. The walls are adorned with old paintings or with buffalo head mounts. The duo also manage another colonial guest house which is a home stay, just a few streets away. In fact Pondicherry is full of them now, complains Thierry who has returned from France to manage this property. Several bungalows are now converted into hotels and restaurants; we have dinner in one of them called Dupleix, named after the erstwhile Governor General and housed in the former Mayor's residence. It is not just the food or the experience that we partake of, but a large slice of history as well. The trip does give us a hangover, of the colonial variety.
Fact file
Getting there
Pondicherry is about 170 km from Chennai. There are two Patricia Guest Houses, the first one in Rue Romain Rolland and the second in Francois Martin. I would recommend the first, which is parallel to the Beach Road. The board is missing and some locals have not even heard of it.
Facilities
Rooms in Patricia Guest House 1 come with private verandahs and gardens
Patricia Guest House 2 is a typical home stay.
Totally seven air conditioned rooms and a deluxe suite with attached bathrooms
Medical help, transportation and food are arranged on request
Traditional board games and books available on request
Tariff
Rates here start from Rs. 1,500 and go up to Rs. 3,000 for the deluxe suite Breakfast is part of the package. It is better to book a room in case you are planning to go during season (October to February) or during weekends
For details contact 04132224720 or email colonialeheritage@rediffmail.com.
Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2005/07/02/stories/2005070203030600.htm
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