Sunday, March 9, 2008

Korkai : Revisiting the past

If history fascinates you, says SOMA BASU



A GLORIOUS PAST The 2000-year-old veli tree in Korkai PHOTO: SOMA BASU

It is amazing how a port city can simply disappear without a trace. And that too, a port that finds mention in ancient Tamil literature and in the writings of Ptolemy and Pliny.

It's the elements of intrigue and mysticism took me to Korkai. Though the place has nothing much to offer, even today it attracts scholars, historians and archaeologists.

Located in the Srivaikundam taluk of Thoothukudi district, the exact location of the original Korkai is a matter of conjecture even now. It takes about 40 minutes from Tiruchendur to reach the place, which looks like any hamlet in the interiors.

The present village set amidst lush greenery, is believed to have `moved' several miles interior as the sea receded over the centuries.

Pearl fishing

But in its hey day, under the rule of Pandya kings of the Sangam period (12th Century), Korkai was the main area of operation for the fishermen of the region and the pearls found here were known for their quality and beauty the world over.


Descendants of pearl divers and shank cutters living in this village on the east coast now struggle to find themselves a job. Of course, most are not aware of Korkai's status as a wealthy commercial city and its fascinating history.

As the skies suddenly decide to open up, the area looks greener. I take a stroll and find women outside their thatched homes chatting as they go about their daily chores. Children play cricket with enthusiasm in the open fields.

The ruins

A youth who sees me, offers to lead me to two spots which make the present Korkai famous. One is a veli tree believed to be 2,000 years old that lies twisted on the ground. Around it are several idols, including one of the Buddha, believed to have been installed by the Pandya kings, who are said to have offered prayers here and meditated under the tree.

The other is an excavated site, the ruins of Korkai, which is under the control of the Archaeological Survey of India. The ASI unearthed pottery dating back to the Harappan civilisation. Also found were large bowls and urns in black and red, now housed in the Government Museum, Chennai.

Work is still on to find the exact location of the port. Folk beliefs, geology and geomorphology are being applied to learn more about life in the port city where the Cholas, Cheras and Pandyas are believed to have lived together. This is evident from the numerous temples scattered around which reflect the architecture of each era.

A visit to Korkai is like taking a walk down historical lane, provided you are interested in history. Or else, it can simply be turn out to be a idyllic stroll in a rural setting.

Either way, Korkai makes for a different RLT, as it fascinates and leaves you asking for more.

You can go temple hopping or discover the history of the place. Remember to carry a food hamper and enjoy Nature in its pristine form.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2005/11/05/stories/2005110500880300.htm

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