Chitharal : History atop a hillock

The serenity you experience at the cave is worth the arduous uphill climb, says SOMA BASU

PHOTO: SOMA BASU

STEPS TO THE PAST Chitharal

After finding my way from Nagercoil to Chitharal, a tiny, unpretentious village, I stand in front of a huge Kerala-style arch. This impressive entrance at the foot of the Thirucharanmalai hillock welcomes visitors but gives them no indication of the hard climb ahead.

Lesson 1, I learnt: Don't overestimate your level of fitness. Lesson 2: It's always wise to choose a day when the sun is not too sharp to start your ascent of what is practically a vertical cliff. For, the only attraction at the end of the demanding RLT is a cave atop the hill which has rock cut sculptures of the Jain Thirthankaras and attendant deities dating back to the 9th Century A.D.

Uphill task

The moment I cross the arch and begin climbing the steps, I realise this is not an easy RLT, what with the merciless sun beating down on my face and the climb steep. Cement benches line the entire 800-metre climb but with the sun blazing down, it's impossible to sit on them. The path uphill is dotted with cashewnut trees, interspersed with other shade-giving trees. Around the benches, beds of colourful flowers have been laid and huge trees bearing red and violet flowers complete the picturesque scene - the handiwork of a former District Collector of Kanyakumari, who tried to develop Thirucharanmalai into a tourist destination.

At last, I see two men climbing downhill and hopefully ask them how far away the shrine is. They merely smile, shrug and walk on, making me wonder how much longer the trek is. But, with each step I take, it seems that I am going back in time, delving into the past, to another era. Yes, Chitharal is one of the last few vestiges of Jainism. In days of yore, this rock shrine was a pilgrim centre for the Jains.

Around the period of the decline of Jainism during the rule of the Cholas in the 11th Century, it is believed that Chandragupta Maurya, along with a Jain ascetic Badrabhahu, reached Sravanabelagola in 298 BC. Their disciples travelled to this region to spread Jainism and chose the hillock for meditation. It was, however, converted into a Hindu temple in 1250A.D., and an image of Bhagavathy was installed.

Almost an hour later, I reach the top of the craggy hill. Its name, Thirucharanmalai, means `the hill holy to the charanas'.

The charanas are said to be the eighth class of samanas who acquired the siddhi by which they could conceal themselves in flowers, water or sky. It also means `a place where Jains live in large groups.'

Atop the hillock, a cool breeze brushes against my cheek and I take in the charming landscape. The jagged outline of the Western Ghats, enveloped by white puffs of clouds, presents a pretty picture against the blue canvas of the sky. Below, the gleaming lakes, fields, winding rivers, clusters of villages nestling amid coconut and palmyrah groves, tall church spires, lofty gopurams... appear enchanting.

I explore the natural cave that has made Chitharal so famous. What catches my attention on the hilltop are two huge rocks almost resting on each other to form a narrow opening through which you can see the beautiful landscape on the other side. Squeeze yourself through this aperture and take the natural stairway down to the rock sculptures. On the northern side of the overhanging rocks are carved images of the Thirthankaras, with their distinct hanging earlobes, the three-tiered umbrella over their tonsured heads, in sitting and standing postures. The images have broad shoulders, slender waists and a contemplative expression on their faces. Between each image are inscriptions in Vattezhuthu.

As you go around the wall of rock art, another flight of steps takes you to the imposing ruins of a temple perched right on top of the hill. Most of the deities in the central shrine are believed to be those of the Jain Thirthankaras, namely Parsvanatha and Mahavira. The Hindus, however, consider these to be images of Maha Vishnu. The central shrine is divided into three chambers — one for the Goddess, another for Mahavira, and, the third, for Parsvanatha in a standing posture. Another flight of steps leads to a pond in front of the shrine. On top of the central shrine is a brick gopuram. The three-storey pagoda apparently carried images of Mahavira. But I learnt that it was destroyed by lightning in 1908.

Tranquil spot

Chitharal is a tranquil spot — a confluence of history and religion. The serenity you experience at the cave is worth the arduous uphill climb. The district administration is busy giving the place a facelift. Many tourists have begun visiting the spot to catch a glimpse of the frescos and the panoramic view of the hills.

How to get there: Chitharal (also spelt Chidaral) is 55km from Kanyakumari, 36km from Nagercoil and 7km from Marthandam. The approach road is from Kandapuram, leading to Elanthavilas. Chitharal is located exactly 4km North East of Kuzhithurai.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2007/04/07/stories/2007040700400300.htm

Thandigudi : Beauty at its peak

Swirling mist, winding paths and lush vegetation... the hills are a trekker's paradise, says SOMA BASU

PHOTOS: SOMA BASU

SERENE AND SCENIC Deserted home of a tribal.

On learning that Thandigudi is also known as "Aadha Kodai" (half Kodaikanal!), I set out on this RLT with mixed feelings. Forty-five km from Kodaikanal, on the road to Dindigul, is this revenue village that has an old- world charm at an elevation of 1,500 metres. But I could hardly believe the package of surprises that lay in store for me atop the hill.

First, the journey. As I took the Dindigul Road from Madurai and on to Batlagundu and the Chittaravu forest check-post, the heat and dust gave way to cool verdure. The tranquillity of the drive that wound up 23 hairpin bends on the Thandigudi ghat road was shattered by a convoy of cars. Allowing them to overtake, I followed the cavalcade at my pace only to find them parked next to the State Horticulture Farm and the Forest Department guest house, roughly six km short of Thandigudi.

Casual queries revealed an elephant, apparently ailing, had died in the morning bringing the Assistant Conservator of Forests, the Forest Ranger, Forest Guard and other staff to the spot. With the public banned from entering the area, I decided against wasting my time here and proceeded to my RLT destination.

Thandigudi, surrounded by the green Palani hills, looked like many other mini hill stations that have been written about in this column, including Sirumalai, Pachalur and Yercaud. Besides coffee and cardamom plantations, the landscape is filled with vanilla, pepper, hill banana, citron and medicinal plants. Carnations and other varieties of flowers added a dash of colour to the greenery. I chose to explore the place on foot.

Enveloped in small shola forests, Thandigudi used to have many trekking routes. But now, they are all damaged by prolonged wet spells and the wild growth of flora. Wild boar, barking deer, bison and sambar are occasionally spotted here and in the surrounding evergreen forests. But the department no longer allows trekkers into the forest. Only its staff goes on an occasional recce.

I stuck to the tarred road and followed a sign post which said Watch Tower, Pannaikadu. For city slickers it is a refreshing change to trek in the hills.

Visual treat

The winding road leading to the hilltop.

The backdrop formed by rolling green hills with a dreamy mist swirling up kept me busy with my camera. To reach the watch tower, I had to take a small detour on a slippery muddy track into the forest. The only wildlife I managed to spot was a pair of tiger lizards. But before I could photograph them, they disappeared into the bushes.

Work on the watch tower is yet to be completed. But a labourer at the site assured me it was safe to climb up and enjoy the view.

And it was captivating indeed. The lush vegetation was a visual treat and the long, winding road cutting through the hills was picturesque. In the valley below, the Maruthanathi, a squarish water body, reflected the silver rays of the sun as they tried to penetrate the grey clouds. A dewy haze filled the area that seemed painted blue. The worker pointed to a peak called the "periya malai", perhaps because it looks the tallest and to a cluster of rocks called "ponnu mapillai rock". Taking a closer look at the rock I realised it looked like a bride and groom, surrounded by friends!

As I prepared to return, the worker told me to check out the echoing rock and the dolmen cave. I skipped the first, but took a dekko at the now deserted ancient home of a tribal.

Walking down, I passed by the Central Coffee Research Station, the Indian Cardamom Research Institute and the Regional Spice Board Research Station.

Thandigudi may have been dubbed `Aadha Kodai' but the beauty and serenity here cannot quite be experienced in the more famous Kodaikanal.

How to get there

Thandigudi can also be reached by Palani-Oddanchatram check-post. It is 56 km from Dindigul, 45 km from Kodaikanal, 88 km from Palani, 97 km from Madurai and 126 km from Thekkady.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2006/10/16/stories/2006101600290300.htm

Alagarkoil - Bison valley : Deep in the woods

For a quiet walk through thick forests, says SOMA BASU

PHOTO: SOMA BASU

ENVELOPED IN SILENCE At Azhagarmalai

To be honest, this was not meant to be an RLT.

It began with a visit to the much celebrated Vishnu temple, Alagarkovil, 22 km northeast of Madurai.But to my delight, the trip ended in a trek on a relatively lesser-known route in the forests of the Azhagar hills. That's how Azhagarmalai became an RLT.

Alargarkoil is situated at the foothills on the southern end of Azhagarmalai and around it are the ruins of an ancient fortified town.

From the temple, there is a narrow path uphill which takes you to another temple in the wilderness, an abode of Lord Subrahmanya. The four-km distance can also be covered by road and it ends in a park of medicinal plants.

The park is managed jointly by the Forest Department and Bangalore-based Foundation for Rehabilitation of Local Health Traditions. You need prior permission to look at in situ conservation plants.

To the right of the park, a flight of 70-odd steps takes you to Lord Muruga's shrine, also famous for a small spring called Noopura Gangai. The water is considered to be as holy as the Ganges. According to myth, Brahma poured water from his kamandalam on Vishnu's feet during his `trivikrama avataram.' A few drops fell off Vishnu's `silambu' (anklet) and flowed out as the Silambu river.

Another three miles uphill is a waterfall, which derives its name from the ornament and hence is called Noopura Gangai.

Though it is supposed to be a perennial waterfall, the spring at the temple below is dry now.

But devotees get to bathe in a restricted supply of this holy water, which reaches them through six taps installed in the spring.

Funny as it may seem or sound, nobody seems to mind, as a continuous stream of devotees undergoes the ritual under watchful eyes of temple guards and monkeys. Yes, monkeys. They are there everywhere and you have to tackle them before finding your way.

Bats everywhere

But before taking the steps to Noopura Gangai, look up at the sky and you can spot colonies of flying fox (the Indian fruit-eating bat) hanging upside down from the trees.

They can be seen on any fruit-bearing tree, resting, nesting or flying over it repeatedly. There are hundreds of them almost forming a dark cloud against the sunlight.

After paying obeisance to the Lord, we encountered a bemusing sight on the temple terrace. Scores of men, women and children — and not to forget our simian brothers — were having a picnic. But, what was disturbing, however, was the mess they created all around — polythene wrappers, plastic cups, empty water bottles and waste food strewn all over.

But if you overlook the foreground and look beyond, a lush landscape meets the eye.

Peeping over the wall, we spotted a muddy track cutting through the grass, shrubs, plants and trees. We decided to scale the wall and found ourselves inside a forest.

As we walked deeper into the forest, the path became prominent. Enveloped in silence, the only sound we could hear was the crunch of dried leaves under our shoes.

Suddenly, a team member hushed everybody up and asked us to listen to the chirping of a bird.

"That's a large green barbet," he whispered excitedly.

Pursuing ornithology as a hobby, he told us we were in the Silambar valley, which is free of biotic influence. "This place is hardly known, you will not see a soul here."

I learnt later that there are three routes from different valleys — Silambar, Periyaruvi and Bison — that all meet at the highest point in the area called Phalaianaiparai at a height of 880m. The trek from Silambar valley to this point through the Azhagar forest is the shortest at six km. Bison Valley, which has to be approached from the north-eastern side of Noopura Gangai, has a fair population of bison and is about eight km.

The longest trek is 12 km in the Periyaruvi valley. All the three paths merge at `End Point,' which is a plateau at the base of the peak.

The three routes are also partially motorable but to go deep inside the forest, the department's permission is required.

In our unplanned march though Silambar valley, we couldn't go too far either, given the restrictions.

But I learnt that the area has been identified for bird watching. The white browed bulbul, orioles, changeable hawk eagle, shama and barbet, besides the migrating birds during winter season, are sighted here regularly. Animal life is negligible.

With the sun setting, we too decided to return, especially since the possible presence of large snakes scared us.

We walked back in silence, through the jungle of banyan tree, the kiluvai tree, kunguliam and itchi maram. Perhaps it is a good way to round off a visit to the temple — a quiet walk through Nature at its pristine best.

How to reach

From Madurai, take the Alagarkoil Road.

The ascent to the plateau from Silambar valley starts at Natham Road. For Bison valley, take Alagarkoil-Melur Road and turn right from Kidaritatti village.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2006/07/08/stories/2006070800440200.htm

Aarnaataan Malai : Travel back in time

For a glimpse of the lives led by the Jain monks of 1-2 AD, says SUBHA J RAO

PHOTOS: K. ANANTHAN

A SPOT FOR MEDITATION The Jain caves at Aarnaataan Malai

Six hundred steps to the top, lots of greenery and a temple at the top. The real action starts a hundred steps below the no-frills place of worship, which finds a place even in saint Arunagiri Nadhar's compositions.

Prickly vines criss-cross a beaten, meandering path that leads us to caves peopled by Jain monks in 1-2 AD in Aarnaataan Malai (mountain of six revenue villages) or Pugazhi Malai (a mountain with fame), as it is locally called.

As we trudge along the path, dotted with shrubs and jagged stones, a steady buzz draws our attention.

A mammoth beehive sways dangerously, sending out a colony of angry bees.

Mani, our guide, pauses to let the bees calm down, before he takes us through rocks and then some more.

A pair of vertical rocks stand sentinel as they have been doing for centuries. The shrubs abruptly disappear, allowing us a glimpse of a fast-developing city.

Silver smoke spirals out of a sugar factory.

Suddenly a pink-brown cave, which looks as if someone has carved it out of the rock face, zooms into view.

It is not very big, but nonetheless daunting because of the enormous rock face that doubles as its roof.

The speciality

So, what's special about this? I wonder. Palaeontologist A.R.K. Arun points to the raised slabs chiselled on the smooth rocks.

"Stone beds," he informs us.

The Jain monks, who lived here in seclusion worked on the naturally formed granite caves to create a dwelling.

According to lore, they would venture to the plains only to showcase the yogic skills they had learnt in the intervening period.

The beds are nothing more than an elevated headrest and a slightly depressed length of rock to rest on.

I try sitting on one of the slabs in an attempt to connect with a person who lived and died here centuries ago.

An inexplicable emotion grips me. Locals, who come here to meditate, insist the vibrations here are all-powerful.

You can also spot Tamil Brahmi inscriptions on the walls, some of which have bowed to the ravages of time and are not discernible.

Modern-day carvings by desperate lovers jarringly co-exist.

The Archaeological Survey of India protects the caves and until some decades ago, one could travel from one cave to the other. In the passageway, used to be the feted `Ramar Paadam', an impression said to be the feet of Lord Rama. Then, the passage was closed.

To enter the second cave, which used to be peopled by a group of monks, one has to walk around the hillock. I pass by the dwelling of another ascetic. He found a corner of the hill where the hot sun did not penetrate. You have to climb a couple of rocks and heave yourself up with the aid of a hardy tree nearby to reach his abode.

A rock lizard guarding its pearl-like eggs scampers past sensing human movement.

It is difficult not to succumb to the temptation of sitting on the stone bed. The feldspar-embedded stone is ice-cold to touch, maybe why the monk chose it in the first place.

Watch your step

I then walk towards the second cave, passing by a moss-covered pond. It is said that the monks went there to bathe. This is windy terrain and walking on the rocks is a delicate exercise. It is best to go barefoot so that you feel your next step.

The local administration had put in place an iron fence on the way to the second cave, to help people get a better grip, but miscreants have left just a portion behind.

This stretch is slippery and the short walk an arduous exercise.

The breathtaking sight from the cave makes up for all the trouble.

You can see the nearby villages, a sea of green and enjoy the cool breeze.

Inside, the air is laced with the odour of ammonia, courtesy a bat colony.

A meditation plank has been chiselled in the centre, possibly for the senior-most monk, with space reserved around it for the others. The ASI board at the entrance lists certain names carved on the rocks. Like three generations of Chera kings, Sangam-era names like pittan, kotran, keeran and oori and the names of gold and textile merchants of that era.

How to go there

Aarnaataan Malai is part of Velayudhampalayam and is 18 km from Karur and 30 km from Namakkal.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2006/08/19/stories/2006081900120200.htm

Kazhugumalai : Treasure Trove

Kazhugumalai: a date with history, says SOMA BASU

THERE IS a place, other than Mahabalipuram, which boasts of a monolithic rock sculpture, but rarely visited. A place which once saw eagles visiting every day as in Tirukazhukunram near Chennai. It has all the ingredients to make an interesting RLT — rock-cut shrines, Jain sculptures, ancient inscriptions, ruins — a treasure trove of history.

Surprisingly, the 8th Century architectural marvels of Kazhugumalai (hill of eagles in Tamil) remain under lock and key. The State Archaeology Department has taken upon itself to guard the site against vandalism. A small village 56 km from Tirunelveli to the West of Kovilpatti, Kazhugumalai emerges in the middle of paddy fields and scattered thatched houses. I discover that what appears to be a hill is actually a twin hillock — Kazhugumalai and Araimalai. Tamil film hits blare out of the shops and houses dotting the foothills on the two sides. As I turn towards the third side, I find a medium-sized tank filled with rainwater. Women washing clothes, children swimming and splashing around joyfully, men scrubbing their cattle and vehicles... there is so much activity though it is an unusually hot morning.

Breathtaking view

In the harsh glare of the sun, it is difficult to trace the path, though I manage to spot a fence on the top. Two eager kids show me the way. I follow them up the small steps cut here and there in the rocks. At some places, it is like a stretching exercise with big rocks serving as steps but spaced wide apart. The rest of the climb is on a pebbled pathway through spiky and dry grass. Finally, I reach the top. The breathtaking view dispels my doubt whether the trip is worth the effort at all.

The fields below resemble an extended green carpet. The gusts of wind in my face are cool and soothing. The kids, who accompany me to the top, call Gangadhar, watchman-cum-guide of the Archaeology Department, who comes running to unlock the gate.

Religious significance

Though Jainism had spread throughout the Pandya kingdom, Kazhugumalai, I learn, was an important religious centre. The Jain ascetic, Gunasagara Bhattara, is said to have lived on this hilltop. A bas-relief belonging to this period provides information about the religion and its followers.

An inscription in vattezhuthu accompanies each sculpted image. Mahavira in sitting posture carved out of a single rock and a dhyana mandapam [a cave within a cave] are ample indication of the religious significance of Kazhugumalai. The keys are missing but Gangadhar assures me that the interior of the mandapam is cool "almost like an air-conditioned room." After a brief stroll around the hillock, it is time to visit the adjacent one, which I am told, has a rare example of Pandya architecture.

Called the Vettuvan Koil, it is sheer poetry in stone. The Sivan temple, carved out of a single rock and decorated with sculpted panels and pillars, is impressive. Though incomplete, the architecture of Vettuvan Koil is compared to that of the five rathas in Mamallapuram, where each cave is scooped out of a hillside. However, the Ganesha idol in the temple looks neglected and forlorn.

Gangadhar, while guiding me, removes the waste paper that is strewn all around. He produces a tattered register filled with names of visitors to the place till date. I find that most of the tourists are foreigners and college students.

Kazhugumalai makes an interesting day-out though it is not a stand-alone destination. It can best be combined with trips to the nearby Kattabomman Memorial and Sankarankoil. On my way back, I learn that the Thoothukudi administration, barely a fortnight ago, has sanctioned funds to develop the area with parks, lighting and drinking water facilities.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2004/10/16/stories/2004101601310100.htm

Thirumayam : History on a Hillock

Thirumayam: there's splendour in these ruins, says SOMA BASU

MY CURIOSITY was kindled every time I travelled on the State highway that connects Madurai to Tiruchi. A lone cannon atop a raised platform, which peeped innocuously out of the ruins of a fort raised on a hillock, never failed to do this to me. The last time I was on the highway, my curiosity got the better of me: I stopped.

A blue board on the road to the fort from the highway informed me that I was on my way to a heritage town — Thirumayam. It was an unusually quiet summer morning. The fort is ringed with houses and there are rock-cut temples in each of its corners. The fiery glow of the burning sun was unpleasant and it didn't get any better as I decided to explore this living heritage, one of the four protected monuments under the Archaeological Survey of India in Pudukkottai district.

There must be a more leisurely way of doing this fort, but such citadels of the past have become part of today's touch-and-go tourism. Beaten by weather, it is in a state of disrepair and the vandalism that has marred the ruins is really saddening.

But it was difficult not to feel a sense of history nevertheless. A five-rupee ticket took me inside this 17th Century structure. A flight of rocky steps transported you to a fort perched on a hillock-top. The fort is said to be built in 1687 by Vijaya Regunatha Thevar, the Sethupathy of Ramanathapuram. History stares at you from every stone. To enjoy, you need to sit down and soak in the atmosphere.

As I walked through the ruins, I heard a voice behind me: "Look and appreciate the old craftsmanship, this is among the well preserved citadels." It was the man from the ticket counter enthusiastically catching up with me. Not many people come here, he told me, justifying his absence from the ticket counter. But during weekends, some families and youngsters arrive to get away from it all, he added.

He turned out to be a useful guide. History has it that the fort played an important role during the Tondaiman rule in Pudukkottai. During World War II, the fort was used as an arsenal by the British Army. Originally, it seems there was an additional fortification that ringed the existing structure with seven concentric walls and a broad moat all around. Today, the remnants appear to be balanced solidly on huge rocks. The walls above the rocks, which enclose the main citadel, are well preserved.

As the only visitor, there was a luxurious sense of anonymity. After exploring the fort and reconstructing in my mind what it must have looked like in its days of glory, there was not much to do but sit under the shade of a tree or enjoy the cool natural caverns. You can also look out of the jagged edges of the fort walls or peep through the square spy holes to see the spread of townships and assess the importance of such a strategic location.

I walked up to the platform that overlooks acres of green fields, and a mesh of newly constructed buildings interspersed with coconut, palm and banana trees on all sides. It was a pretty scene. It might have been prettier if I was not squinting in the bright sunshine. My friendly volunteer then pointed to a small water body, which is fenced now. The story goes that hidden under the water there are eight steps that lead to an underground tank. The water in it is believed to be as holy as the teertham in Rameswaram.

As for the temples around the fort, there is a rock-cut Siva Temple assignable to the times of Muttarayars of the 8th Century. There is a Vishnu temple, and there are also shrines of Bhairava, Hanuman and Ganesha, guardian deities of the fort. This monument is well worth a visit. Get acquainted with some history before coming, pack a pair of sunglasses and, if you plan to spend a few hours in the ruins, remember to pack a hamper.

How to get there:

Thirumayam Fort is 19 km from Pudukkottai town, which lies on the Chennai-Rameswaram railway line. The district is rich in archaeological sites, one of which was covered in an earlier RLT — Sittanavasal. There are decent hotels in Pudukkotai and day trips can be undertaken to these various sites with help from guides.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2004/09/25/stories/2004092500510100.htm

Additional Links: http://xlnt.rediffblogs.com/

Viralimalai : Wild peacock chase!

Viralimalai: but where are the birds, asks SOMA BASU

ALL RIGHT, it was the lure of peacocks. It wasn't the famed Muruga Temple that took me to Viralimalai and my indifference to the Lord taught me a lesson. I spent the day on a `wild peacock chase', hearing stories about the divine status of the national bird but hardly seeing any in this small temple town near Tiruchi. The tourism brochure (never, never believe in it) misled me by describing Viralimalai as famous for its peacock sanctuary. As an RLT junkie, I jumped at the idea and jumped on a taxi.

The bus route from Madurai to Tiruchi on the NH 45B was smooth, barring the odd speed breaker. This was not going to be my first date with peacocks, but my interest was fired by the thought of seeing them in dozens at one place. In my mind, I equated it with the famous penguin parade in Melbourne. Close to Viralimalai, there were boys selling peacock feathers sealed in cellophane paper, waving frantically to potential customers. They asked for Rs. 100 but settled for Rs. 20 without so much as a protest leaving me with the suspicion that I had paid too much. From the main road to the narrow street leading to the village, I saw more feathers than I wanted to. But where were the peacocks? A question asked at the forest office elicited an answer, "There". I saw a finger pointing to a garbage dump. On the other side, indeed there were two peacocks chasing each other in the bushes. Obviously, I wanted to see more. "Wait, wait, they will come," he assured me. But hours rolled by and there was no sign of the birds. How would I get a photo? How would I write an RLT, I wondered? I wandered around aimlessly till the truth dawned on me when Forest Ranger Jagan Mohan asked: "What, peacock sanctuary are you looking for?" After some prodding, he admitted that until about 18 months ago, there "was a sanctuary." There were about 150 birds, most of them residents on the temple hillock. Thanks to the Forest Department's supply of grain, the number rose to 400, forcing the Department to stop feeding and letting the birds on their own. The birds then decided to move along and now the estimated population of 500-plus is scattered over Pudukkottai district. Result: Viralimalai's claim as a home for peacocks is a gross exaggeration.

However, the temple priests continue the practice of feeding and a sizeable number turns up each day.

I ended up counting the 210 steps on the small,rocky hill that takes you to the 18th Century temple. Ringed by thick wooden arches, its facade boasts of colourfully carved peacocks.

Marvellous stories

A devotee regaled me with marvellous stories about the place. A unique practice here is that a cheroot is offered to Lord Subrahmanya along with the neiveidyam and later given as prasadam to devotees. The story goes that a worshipper who chain-smoked was a regular visitor. On one such visit, he was cut off from where he came by heavy rain and flash floods. With no food and unable to get his nicotine fix, he prayed to Lord Muruga who appeared and voila ... provided him with a cheroot and a matchstick. Ever since, the community offers cheroots to the Lord.

The boulders one sees on the Viralimalai hills are believed to be more than rocks. They are said to be the agglomeration of bodies of yogis who sat in penance and attained samadhi. Apparently, the peacocks here know which one is a `yogi rock' and which one is merely sedimentary. They select only yogi rocks to dance upon and shed their feathers.

A devotee pointed towards a rock with a peacock perched on it. And then there were two on the street below...one more on the steps...and three more by the temple wall. The truth is I saw only eight of them. Not much for a peacock sanctuary... but then I should have gone to Viralimalai for the temple in the first place, yes?

How to get there

Nearest railheads: Tiruchi and Pudukkottai. At a distance of 40 km North-West of Pudukkottai and 33 km South of Tiruchi. Located on Madurai-Tiruchi bus road with frequent bus services.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2005/02/05/stories/2005020502310100.htm

Dindigul Fort : Pillow Rock

Dindigul Fort: forgotten and in disrepair, says SOMA BASU

GASPING FOR breath, I haul myself up the 800-odd steps to reach this 17th Century citadel built by the Naicker kings in Dindigul. A voice from behind catches me by surprise. "Lafda mangta hai kya, madam?" ("Inviting trouble?") I soon realise what he means. A 360-degree scan does not show up a single soul atop this isolated granite rock fort, which rises over 360 feet above ground level. I introduce myself. He says he heard me do that at the ticket counter below and that is why he followed to ask me to be careful. I thank him and proceed to have a closer look at the strong walls of this legendary fort that took 54 years to build and was strategically important in several military operations.

Pillow in stone

Approaching from Madurai, the huge rock emerges on the horizon like a "Dhindu" (Pillow). Hence the city's name - Dindigul. Amidst paddy fields and coconut groves, it stands out like a welcome symbol, one kilometre short of the city centre. History has it that the Naik King Muthu Krishnappa Naicker started building the Rock Fort in 1605. From 1623 to 1659, Mannar Thirumalai Naicker ruled and completed construction of the fort, which later came under the rule of Tipu Sultan. The Archaeological Survey of India's familiar blue board declares the fort a "protected monument" and collects Rs. 5 for an entry ticket (Rs.100 for foreigners). Absence of tourist guides and security guards further affirms the disinterest of the department and the people.

Few visitors

The fort receives few visitors - mainly the odd group of college students and the occasional foreign tourist. The steep climb is possibly a deterrent and the steps are so small that it is easy to trip over them. I walk around the tunnels and trenches en route that reveal how meticulously the ancient fort was constructed to safeguard its inhabitants.

From the ruins within the fort walls, I can see structures (perhaps used as arsenal depots or animal stables) and damaged mandapams (decorated with carved stone columns, complete with dwarapalakas). I go up to the cannon point and look through the spy holes imagining the sound, light and speed of the fireballs that were released.

The fort is known to have played a prominent role during the battles of the Marathas and also of Hyder Ali, who escorted his wife and five-year-old son Tipu here in 1755. From 1784 to 1790, the fort was under the rule of Tipu Sultan. His chief Commandant, Syed Ibrahim, under whose care the fort was entrusted, constructed several additional rooms, fortified the walls and repaired many parts.

After Tipu Sultan was defeated in the Mysore War in 1790, the British took control of the fort. Hyder Ali had also constructed a mosque beneath the fort for his soldiers. A temple was later built on the tip of the rock. But today, the fort is a picture of neglect and has become a haven for young couples.

As I take in the view from the top, I imagine how the fort must have brimmed with activity in its years of glory. Today, Dindigul Rock is no more than a landmark that you pass by on the highway.

With a little effort and planning, it could have been converted into a proper tourist attraction. But then, had this been done, Dindigul Rock would perhaps not find a place in these columns.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2005/04/02/stories/2005040202440100.htm

Navamalai : Rock and the ripples

Never mind the insects, says Subha J Rao

Photo: K. Ananthan

SILENCE AND SERENITY Navamalai, a monolithic rock

A huge monolithic rock face that thousands of bees have made their home and a mass of gently lapping water — that's Navamalai for you. Part of Electricity Board territory, this is the backyard of the Aliyar Dam.

The only company is that of strange looking red and black insects that travel in pairs and the odd chameleon. The scent of elephants is unmistakable in the background.

After climbing down a steep rock, my first stop is a cave temple dedicated to a local goddess, Aagaliamman. The speckled insects may scare away the faint-hearted but the temple is a sight to behold. The turmeric-smeared goddess and plump Vinayagar are protected by a rocky outcrop. Inside are a set of caves, one of which houses a broken ladder and terracotta idols of a goddess, horse and a headless figure, painted red, yellow and white.

The villagers who pay their obeisance here have left their mark on the temple in the form of whitewash. Earlier visitors have chiselled their names and left imprints of their feet on the rocky pathway.

A little above the hollow that makes for the temple are tens of circular crevices — the home of bees. The mammoth combs are said to yield very sweet honey. That explains the bamboo lattice frame that locals have hung against the rock. They make the dangerous descent down the rock using the frame, gather honey and gingerly make their way up again. En route, they gather ripe pods of the kazhudhabutta maram. A cotton-look alike, the kernels inside it are eaten after being roasted in an open fire.

Though just two kilometres from the much-visited Monkey Falls, this place receives very few visitors. The temple provides a vantage point to see the waters of the Aliyar. Absolute silence prevails, broken occasionally by the gentle lapping of water and the whistling of the wind. Walk down a little further and you'll reach the water body.

An apology for a road, which winds its way further down, leads into the water and disappears before resurfacing at the other end. This is the original road that was laid to the Navamalai power project. It is falling off in places, but is the best place to sit for a while and take in the view of the water, the sky and the bald peaks of nearby hills. Many years earlier, water reached up to the temple, submerging the rocks and the road. After half-an-hour of letting the gentle waves wash my feet, it is time to turn back.

How to go

Navamalai is 27 km from Pollachi. Take the road opposite Monkey Falls. Drive down about two km to reach the road leading to the temple. Walk down to the temple and the watery expanse.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2005/06/11/stories/2005061101120100.htm

Thirupparankundram : Hallowed hollows

Jain Caves: a retreat from the world, says PRINCE FREDERICK

ON THE road to Madurai, a hill that is shaped like an amoeba comes into view. Its bald formlessness had always made me think of it as just another blob of earth. Only much later, when I visit this hill, which is located in Thirupparankundram near Madurai, do I realise that it is a place where archaeology, religion and tourism are melded in an interesting package.

Unlike other RLTs, where I invariably set out on my own, this time I travel as a part of the Madurai Taj Garden Retreat tour of places around the town. I am not the only journalist on this trip, but it throws up an RLT where I least expected to find one.

The hill is known by the hollow formations in it, three of them. Jain Caves offered Jain monks a retreat from the world. Legend has it that some of them would live in these hollows without food and water for months, or until they had crossed over into the other world. Even today, these rocks seem to exude a sense of quiet.

Interesting inscriptions

The three caves are part of many more that exist in this district — all situated close to Madurai town. Brahmi inscriptions suggest that they go back to the 2nd or 1st Century B.C. The first lies in the foothills, a neatly scooped out hollow that bears inscriptions on the rock face. Some of them refer to the customs prevalent during the times of the Pandya kings.

A flight of stone steps leads up to the next cave. As you enter this one, you find the hollow leading on to an open terrain. Here, what appears to be a tear in the rock has a body of water, green with algae and teeming with tilapia. The water runs many metres deep and the `tank' never goes dry. People of all religions come here to feed the fish and say their prayers.

According to legend, in order to be freed from a curse, two demons had to abduct 1,000 people who were lax in their religious duties and shut them up in prison. They managed 999 in no time, but could not get hold of the last. Frustrated, they took a short cut. They bound the Tamil poet Nakirar hand and foot and shut him up. The poet sought divine intervention and was released. Lord Muruga drove a wedge into the rock and out sprang holy water in which Nakirar bathed and washed off the defilement caused by the demons' touch. This is said to be the same water body that exists today.

Parallel to this cave, but on another projection of the hill, lies another, which houses a mosque. This place of worship was built 300 years ago in memory of Sikander Badshah, a Muslim holy man. As we depart and the hill appears on our rear view mirror, I tell myself that it symbolises religious pluralism.

Courtesy:http://www.hindu.com/mp/2005/03/12/stories/2005031202120100.htm

Ramagiri : North Face

Puttur: four RLTs rolled into one, says PRINCE FREDERICK

GOING ON the whim that heading northwards out of Chennai would lead me to an RLT, I find myself in what is loosely called the Puttur range of hills, about 100 km away, rarely visited, hidden like a turtle in its shell. I stop at Ramagiri (75 km from Chennai), a small, run-of-the-mill village, and ask for directions to a peak that protrudes from the surroundings like a camel's hump.

The locals do not climb this odd but beautifully crested peak, except during November and December to bring up a religious flame. Now and then adventure-seekers from Chennai do attempt to reach the top. Apparently, the narrow serpentine pathway provides a challenging trek and the shady vegetation that lines the pathway encourages these tourists to undertake it.

I am tempted to play Tenzing and succumb without much ado. A good distance up the hill, my guide volunteers an unsettling piece of information — that bears and pythons are part of the wildlife here. I have half a mind to retrace my steps but decide to go on.

Uphill, the landscape takes on some of the qualities of a forest — thick vegetation and the whir of ubiquitous insects. However, a little over three hours later, I am forced to call off the assault of the peak for reasons of insufficient time.

What would I have been rewarded with had I gone the distance? The remains of a hilltop shrine and, of course, the high that one derives from completing a difficult undertaking.

Brooks, pools and falls

Promising myself that I will some day claim these rewards, I take the 18-km route to Konai falls, which is considered the best that the Puttur range has to offer. As waterfalls go, Konai doesn't exactly gush with the effusion one might expect, but the trick is to scour the surrounding hills, which are replete with murmuring brooks and plunge pools.

With the help of a local, I walk along streams that play hide-and-seek, losing my footing on crags that have been smoothened by the constant caress of water. Broken bottles strewn here and there provide sobering evidence that these hills are not as unexplored as I had imagined.

Between Konai Falls and Ramagiri lies Pichatur. My decision to stop here has been shaped by a colleague's description of this town as the site for a water-filled dam that is ringed by hills. The hills are there at a distance, but where is the water? Except for two small patches, the Araniar reservoir, which has put Pichatur on the map, is dry as a bone. If you remove the Ramagiri Hills which forms the backdrop, the picture is quite dreary.

Different purposes

The adventure for the day is not over. At Periyapalayam, I swerve and swish down the Vengal-Seethangeri Road, which runs parallel to the Puttur Road. Although Vengal and Seethangeri come under the care of the Forest Department, they serve different purposes. Vengal, dotted with rosewood and eucalyptus trees, is a means of revenue generation. Seethangeri is a thick jungle that has been left alone for the creatures of the air to roost and nest.

I bivouac beside the peaceful arbours of Vengal and hoof around Seethangeri, filling my scribble-pad with the names of birds.

On my way back, I cannot help thinking of Newton's words: "A great guess can

lead to a great discovery." And mine has led me to not just one, but four.

All in a single day.

How to get there: All Puttur-bound and most Tirupati-bound buses will take you to these destinations. However, driving your own vehicle is a better alternative.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2004/10/09/stories/2004100900280100.htm