Kumittipathi : A peep into the past

For those who are game for some adventure, writes Anima Balakrishnan

WHERE LEGENDS UNFOLD The entrance to the Neolithic cave - Photo:K.Ananthan

It was not a great day to embark on your first RLT. The monsoon had unleashed itself on neighbouring Kerala and my RLT destination, Kumittipathi, is a mere four kilometres from the Kerala border.

Our guide, ARK Arun is a fossil expert. Kumittipathi, the fossil man vouches, is home to Neolithic paintings that are more than 5,000 years old. If you thought RLTs are about obscure places tucked aeons away from civilisation, this one is different. A mere 30 km from Coimbatore, the place haunts you with its deathly stillness but has an inherent capacity to surprise you.

As you drive down NH 47 towards Palakkad, clouds darken and the air gets heavier past the Western Ghats. As we steer off the main road, temperatures drop and the scenery dotted with over-grown palm trees takes over. A town appears before you from nowhere. It's Thirumalayanpalayam. Kumittipathi is just couple of kilometres away. A serpentine road takes you past tiny settlements and stone quarries, and legends unfold. Table-like stone structures, Sumai Thangikal, erected in memory of women who died during childbirth rest on the roadside. The road gets progressively slender and the ride bumpier.

Squeezing past bowing shrubs, the car climbs over a languorously spread rock and the outcrop housing the caves presents itself majestically. As the rain beats down hard, we leave our phones and watches behind and I take my first close look at the mammoth rock, which sits like a grey-brown slouching monster with a quaint sense of adventure.

Uphill task

We begin our climb and Nature decides to be a little unkind. The skies open up with all fury and with no coats or caps, the slippery climb gets a little tricky. We lumber behind the fossil man, treading over dicey, bald rock with great care. After a climb of nearly 30-foot, a huge oval mouth, around 20-foot wide opens in front of you. There it is, the granite formation in rock, pregnant with more than 3,000 million years of history and waiting to unfold its story. At the entrance are the Neolithic works, called the petrographs, of a peacock, a tree, an elephant and other geometric figures, assumed to be more than 5,000 years old. They fight for space with new-age artistic creations in chalk and paint. Walk into the ten-foot deep dark cave and pieces of broken glass and match-sticks carpet the slushy floor.

A petrograph.

Those game for a little adventure will find the climb to the temple at the top of the 300-foot outcrop interesting. Erratically arranged stone steps wind up and suddenly disappear from view. Arun assures us that the climb is not too tough and being in a mood for some adventure, I agree. But as you go half way up, the steps vanish and you are at the mercy of thinly carved footrests on the sloping, slimy rock.

You move ahead, one step at a time and tend to miss more than a breath. The rain lashing down your back doesn't make it any easier. After an eternity, you are at the very top, before the Baladandayudhapaani temple. Neatly margined paddy fields stretch across as far as you can see and the Ghats covered in mist unravel like a dark giant.

How to get there

Drive down the Palakkad highway, past Madukkarai till you reach the signboard for Nehru College on the left. Turn there and drive down the main road to reach Thirumalayanpalayam. Kumittipathi is two kilometres from there.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2005/08/13/stories/2005081301390300.htm

Chitharal : History atop a hillock

The serenity you experience at the cave is worth the arduous uphill climb, says SOMA BASU

PHOTO: SOMA BASU

STEPS TO THE PAST Chitharal

After finding my way from Nagercoil to Chitharal, a tiny, unpretentious village, I stand in front of a huge Kerala-style arch. This impressive entrance at the foot of the Thirucharanmalai hillock welcomes visitors but gives them no indication of the hard climb ahead.

Lesson 1, I learnt: Don't overestimate your level of fitness. Lesson 2: It's always wise to choose a day when the sun is not too sharp to start your ascent of what is practically a vertical cliff. For, the only attraction at the end of the demanding RLT is a cave atop the hill which has rock cut sculptures of the Jain Thirthankaras and attendant deities dating back to the 9th Century A.D.

Uphill task

The moment I cross the arch and begin climbing the steps, I realise this is not an easy RLT, what with the merciless sun beating down on my face and the climb steep. Cement benches line the entire 800-metre climb but with the sun blazing down, it's impossible to sit on them. The path uphill is dotted with cashewnut trees, interspersed with other shade-giving trees. Around the benches, beds of colourful flowers have been laid and huge trees bearing red and violet flowers complete the picturesque scene - the handiwork of a former District Collector of Kanyakumari, who tried to develop Thirucharanmalai into a tourist destination.

At last, I see two men climbing downhill and hopefully ask them how far away the shrine is. They merely smile, shrug and walk on, making me wonder how much longer the trek is. But, with each step I take, it seems that I am going back in time, delving into the past, to another era. Yes, Chitharal is one of the last few vestiges of Jainism. In days of yore, this rock shrine was a pilgrim centre for the Jains.

Around the period of the decline of Jainism during the rule of the Cholas in the 11th Century, it is believed that Chandragupta Maurya, along with a Jain ascetic Badrabhahu, reached Sravanabelagola in 298 BC. Their disciples travelled to this region to spread Jainism and chose the hillock for meditation. It was, however, converted into a Hindu temple in 1250A.D., and an image of Bhagavathy was installed.

Almost an hour later, I reach the top of the craggy hill. Its name, Thirucharanmalai, means `the hill holy to the charanas'.

The charanas are said to be the eighth class of samanas who acquired the siddhi by which they could conceal themselves in flowers, water or sky. It also means `a place where Jains live in large groups.'

Atop the hillock, a cool breeze brushes against my cheek and I take in the charming landscape. The jagged outline of the Western Ghats, enveloped by white puffs of clouds, presents a pretty picture against the blue canvas of the sky. Below, the gleaming lakes, fields, winding rivers, clusters of villages nestling amid coconut and palmyrah groves, tall church spires, lofty gopurams... appear enchanting.

I explore the natural cave that has made Chitharal so famous. What catches my attention on the hilltop are two huge rocks almost resting on each other to form a narrow opening through which you can see the beautiful landscape on the other side. Squeeze yourself through this aperture and take the natural stairway down to the rock sculptures. On the northern side of the overhanging rocks are carved images of the Thirthankaras, with their distinct hanging earlobes, the three-tiered umbrella over their tonsured heads, in sitting and standing postures. The images have broad shoulders, slender waists and a contemplative expression on their faces. Between each image are inscriptions in Vattezhuthu.

As you go around the wall of rock art, another flight of steps takes you to the imposing ruins of a temple perched right on top of the hill. Most of the deities in the central shrine are believed to be those of the Jain Thirthankaras, namely Parsvanatha and Mahavira. The Hindus, however, consider these to be images of Maha Vishnu. The central shrine is divided into three chambers — one for the Goddess, another for Mahavira, and, the third, for Parsvanatha in a standing posture. Another flight of steps leads to a pond in front of the shrine. On top of the central shrine is a brick gopuram. The three-storey pagoda apparently carried images of Mahavira. But I learnt that it was destroyed by lightning in 1908.

Tranquil spot

Chitharal is a tranquil spot — a confluence of history and religion. The serenity you experience at the cave is worth the arduous uphill climb. The district administration is busy giving the place a facelift. Many tourists have begun visiting the spot to catch a glimpse of the frescos and the panoramic view of the hills.

How to get there: Chitharal (also spelt Chidaral) is 55km from Kanyakumari, 36km from Nagercoil and 7km from Marthandam. The approach road is from Kandapuram, leading to Elanthavilas. Chitharal is located exactly 4km North East of Kuzhithurai.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2007/04/07/stories/2007040700400300.htm

Thondi : A port with a past

For a slice of history, says SOMA BASU

PHOTO: SOMA BASU

PICTURESQUE SETTING The pier at Thondi

Beaches always beckon and so does anything `ancient.' This time a friend in the Police Department posted in Ramanathapuram district, recommends some neglected but beautiful places there.

"They are deserving RLT spots," he assures. So, I get into my car and head to Thondi, an ancient port city in Ramnad. The drive from Madurai takes a little over three hours. But be prepared for a stomach-churning stretch from Thiruvadanai to Thondi as there is no proper road and also leave your olfactory senses behind or else don't embark on this journey.

But if you are driven by an adventurous spirit, just hit the track. You just can't always have the best on every RLT trip, I remind myself as my eyes scan the setting on either side of the road. From Madurai to Thiruvadanai, the road is good and the drive, pretty smooth. Nature doesn't have much to offer during this season except for patches of tamarind arches on the highway. Paddy has been harvested and much of the landscape around is brown. But the worse is yet to begin when the vehicle suddenly slips with a thud from a tar track on to a muddy and pebbled tract.

Suddenly, there's activity all around. Bulldozers and road rollers, mounds of sand and beds of crushed stones line the narrow and kucha, almost unmotorable road. The car grudgingly makes its way through the brown haze raised by passing vehicles. Through the dusty veil, I spot a brightly painted temple gopuram, a moss layered school building, thatched huts and some dilapidated structures. The paint on a handful of signposts and milestones on the way has faded. The muddy road branches off from what was supposed to be the main road and curves down bringing into sight some hamlets and a church on the right.

On the left one can see the Bay of Bengal shimmering under the fiery sun. As I reach there post-noon, it's hot and what makes the initial moments worse is the smell of fish. The best option is to cover your nose and drive on. It is the first lap of about 750 m that stinks.

Unique experience

Drive along the coastline till the road reaches a dead end at the gate of the Thondi branch of the Karaikudi-based Alagappa University. Just before this beautiful campus by the seaside is the office of the Naval Detachment Unit. Opposite the naval base, a half-a-km long cemented pier takes you right into the sea. It is a unique experience to walk on it with a strong wind blowing on your face. But don't go too close to the edge as there is no safety railing to hold on to. It is a naked land jetty and used only for fishing. The water, however, is still. The Palk Strait at Thondi is supposed to be shallow and is considered much safer than other areas around the Strait and the Gulf of Mannar. Thondi could have qualified as an ideal place for swimming, surfing and sun bathing. But then due to lack of road and rail connectivity and inadequate hinterland development, the place has lost its importance and is used only for fishing now.

But its historical importance cannot be undermined. Thondi is recorded as a heritage place of the great Kings of the Cheras, the Cholas and the Pandyas, who all nurtured this port city. Even the British used the Thondi Port to import and export goods from Sri Lanka and Burma, among other countries. There have been demands to revive the port for the past several decades but only now under the Sethu Samudram Project implementation, some work has begun in laying a road to Thondi.

If the smell doesn't bother you much, then you can enjoy the serenity of the place. You see nothing but water here in three directions. In the foreground, it looks mossy green but follow the receding horizon and you find a lovely combination of blue and shining silver. The sea is gentle and fishermen's boats appear in the distance like tiny specks on the aqua canvas. If you turn your back to the sea, the fourth side reveals the secular nature of the place. The coastline is dotted with a church, a temple and a mosque.

Truly, Thondi hides a charming delight. If only the authorities take care to clean up the area, can it be developed into a more inviting destination.

How to get there

Thondi is 40 km from Ramanathapuram and 145 km from Madurai. While coming from Madurai, take the Sivagangai road and on to Kalaiyarkoil and Thiruvadanai before reaching Thondi.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2007/02/26/stories/2007022600150200.htm

Thirumayam : History on a Hillock

Thirumayam: there's splendour in these ruins, says SOMA BASU

MY CURIOSITY was kindled every time I travelled on the State highway that connects Madurai to Tiruchi. A lone cannon atop a raised platform, which peeped innocuously out of the ruins of a fort raised on a hillock, never failed to do this to me. The last time I was on the highway, my curiosity got the better of me: I stopped.

A blue board on the road to the fort from the highway informed me that I was on my way to a heritage town — Thirumayam. It was an unusually quiet summer morning. The fort is ringed with houses and there are rock-cut temples in each of its corners. The fiery glow of the burning sun was unpleasant and it didn't get any better as I decided to explore this living heritage, one of the four protected monuments under the Archaeological Survey of India in Pudukkottai district.

There must be a more leisurely way of doing this fort, but such citadels of the past have become part of today's touch-and-go tourism. Beaten by weather, it is in a state of disrepair and the vandalism that has marred the ruins is really saddening.

But it was difficult not to feel a sense of history nevertheless. A five-rupee ticket took me inside this 17th Century structure. A flight of rocky steps transported you to a fort perched on a hillock-top. The fort is said to be built in 1687 by Vijaya Regunatha Thevar, the Sethupathy of Ramanathapuram. History stares at you from every stone. To enjoy, you need to sit down and soak in the atmosphere.

As I walked through the ruins, I heard a voice behind me: "Look and appreciate the old craftsmanship, this is among the well preserved citadels." It was the man from the ticket counter enthusiastically catching up with me. Not many people come here, he told me, justifying his absence from the ticket counter. But during weekends, some families and youngsters arrive to get away from it all, he added.

He turned out to be a useful guide. History has it that the fort played an important role during the Tondaiman rule in Pudukkottai. During World War II, the fort was used as an arsenal by the British Army. Originally, it seems there was an additional fortification that ringed the existing structure with seven concentric walls and a broad moat all around. Today, the remnants appear to be balanced solidly on huge rocks. The walls above the rocks, which enclose the main citadel, are well preserved.

As the only visitor, there was a luxurious sense of anonymity. After exploring the fort and reconstructing in my mind what it must have looked like in its days of glory, there was not much to do but sit under the shade of a tree or enjoy the cool natural caverns. You can also look out of the jagged edges of the fort walls or peep through the square spy holes to see the spread of townships and assess the importance of such a strategic location.

I walked up to the platform that overlooks acres of green fields, and a mesh of newly constructed buildings interspersed with coconut, palm and banana trees on all sides. It was a pretty scene. It might have been prettier if I was not squinting in the bright sunshine. My friendly volunteer then pointed to a small water body, which is fenced now. The story goes that hidden under the water there are eight steps that lead to an underground tank. The water in it is believed to be as holy as the teertham in Rameswaram.

As for the temples around the fort, there is a rock-cut Siva Temple assignable to the times of Muttarayars of the 8th Century. There is a Vishnu temple, and there are also shrines of Bhairava, Hanuman and Ganesha, guardian deities of the fort. This monument is well worth a visit. Get acquainted with some history before coming, pack a pair of sunglasses and, if you plan to spend a few hours in the ruins, remember to pack a hamper.

How to get there:

Thirumayam Fort is 19 km from Pudukkottai town, which lies on the Chennai-Rameswaram railway line. The district is rich in archaeological sites, one of which was covered in an earlier RLT — Sittanavasal. There are decent hotels in Pudukkotai and day trips can be undertaken to these various sites with help from guides.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2004/09/25/stories/2004092500510100.htm

Additional Links: http://xlnt.rediffblogs.com/

Dindigul Fort : Pillow Rock

Dindigul Fort: forgotten and in disrepair, says SOMA BASU

GASPING FOR breath, I haul myself up the 800-odd steps to reach this 17th Century citadel built by the Naicker kings in Dindigul. A voice from behind catches me by surprise. "Lafda mangta hai kya, madam?" ("Inviting trouble?") I soon realise what he means. A 360-degree scan does not show up a single soul atop this isolated granite rock fort, which rises over 360 feet above ground level. I introduce myself. He says he heard me do that at the ticket counter below and that is why he followed to ask me to be careful. I thank him and proceed to have a closer look at the strong walls of this legendary fort that took 54 years to build and was strategically important in several military operations.

Pillow in stone

Approaching from Madurai, the huge rock emerges on the horizon like a "Dhindu" (Pillow). Hence the city's name - Dindigul. Amidst paddy fields and coconut groves, it stands out like a welcome symbol, one kilometre short of the city centre. History has it that the Naik King Muthu Krishnappa Naicker started building the Rock Fort in 1605. From 1623 to 1659, Mannar Thirumalai Naicker ruled and completed construction of the fort, which later came under the rule of Tipu Sultan. The Archaeological Survey of India's familiar blue board declares the fort a "protected monument" and collects Rs. 5 for an entry ticket (Rs.100 for foreigners). Absence of tourist guides and security guards further affirms the disinterest of the department and the people.

Few visitors

The fort receives few visitors - mainly the odd group of college students and the occasional foreign tourist. The steep climb is possibly a deterrent and the steps are so small that it is easy to trip over them. I walk around the tunnels and trenches en route that reveal how meticulously the ancient fort was constructed to safeguard its inhabitants.

From the ruins within the fort walls, I can see structures (perhaps used as arsenal depots or animal stables) and damaged mandapams (decorated with carved stone columns, complete with dwarapalakas). I go up to the cannon point and look through the spy holes imagining the sound, light and speed of the fireballs that were released.

The fort is known to have played a prominent role during the battles of the Marathas and also of Hyder Ali, who escorted his wife and five-year-old son Tipu here in 1755. From 1784 to 1790, the fort was under the rule of Tipu Sultan. His chief Commandant, Syed Ibrahim, under whose care the fort was entrusted, constructed several additional rooms, fortified the walls and repaired many parts.

After Tipu Sultan was defeated in the Mysore War in 1790, the British took control of the fort. Hyder Ali had also constructed a mosque beneath the fort for his soldiers. A temple was later built on the tip of the rock. But today, the fort is a picture of neglect and has become a haven for young couples.

As I take in the view from the top, I imagine how the fort must have brimmed with activity in its years of glory. Today, Dindigul Rock is no more than a landmark that you pass by on the highway.

With a little effort and planning, it could have been converted into a proper tourist attraction. But then, had this been done, Dindigul Rock would perhaps not find a place in these columns.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2005/04/02/stories/2005040202440100.htm

Thirupparankundram : Hallowed hollows

Jain Caves: a retreat from the world, says PRINCE FREDERICK

ON THE road to Madurai, a hill that is shaped like an amoeba comes into view. Its bald formlessness had always made me think of it as just another blob of earth. Only much later, when I visit this hill, which is located in Thirupparankundram near Madurai, do I realise that it is a place where archaeology, religion and tourism are melded in an interesting package.

Unlike other RLTs, where I invariably set out on my own, this time I travel as a part of the Madurai Taj Garden Retreat tour of places around the town. I am not the only journalist on this trip, but it throws up an RLT where I least expected to find one.

The hill is known by the hollow formations in it, three of them. Jain Caves offered Jain monks a retreat from the world. Legend has it that some of them would live in these hollows without food and water for months, or until they had crossed over into the other world. Even today, these rocks seem to exude a sense of quiet.

Interesting inscriptions

The three caves are part of many more that exist in this district — all situated close to Madurai town. Brahmi inscriptions suggest that they go back to the 2nd or 1st Century B.C. The first lies in the foothills, a neatly scooped out hollow that bears inscriptions on the rock face. Some of them refer to the customs prevalent during the times of the Pandya kings.

A flight of stone steps leads up to the next cave. As you enter this one, you find the hollow leading on to an open terrain. Here, what appears to be a tear in the rock has a body of water, green with algae and teeming with tilapia. The water runs many metres deep and the `tank' never goes dry. People of all religions come here to feed the fish and say their prayers.

According to legend, in order to be freed from a curse, two demons had to abduct 1,000 people who were lax in their religious duties and shut them up in prison. They managed 999 in no time, but could not get hold of the last. Frustrated, they took a short cut. They bound the Tamil poet Nakirar hand and foot and shut him up. The poet sought divine intervention and was released. Lord Muruga drove a wedge into the rock and out sprang holy water in which Nakirar bathed and washed off the defilement caused by the demons' touch. This is said to be the same water body that exists today.

Parallel to this cave, but on another projection of the hill, lies another, which houses a mosque. This place of worship was built 300 years ago in memory of Sikander Badshah, a Muslim holy man. As we depart and the hill appears on our rear view mirror, I tell myself that it symbolises religious pluralism.

Courtesy:http://www.hindu.com/mp/2005/03/12/stories/2005031202120100.htm

Birthplace of the famous Saivite saint Sekkizhar

Sri Thiru-Uraga perumal with Thiruvirundhavalli Thayar at the Kundrathur temple.

FOR A settlement of its size, Kundrathur (28 km from Chennai) has a cluster of seven temples. The temple for Lord Muruga is of course the most famous among them.

The settlement referred to as Kundrapuri in inscriptions was the birthplace of the famous Saivite saint Sekkizhar and has a temple dedicated to him as well as one built by him.

Our early morning travel let us visit only one of the temples dedicated to Thiruvirundhavalli Thayar and Thiru-Uraga Perumal.

The second temple on the road leading to the Murugan temple on the hill, the half completed gopuram drew our attention immediately.

We went past the gopuram, pausing to admire the fine Dasavataram panel in the ceiling inside the temple. The temple complex is a small and simple one. The main deity is seven feet tall and was well decorated. There were subsidiary shrines probably consecrated during the last renovation in the year 2000.

The remains of a pillared mandapam spoke of a grand edifice built probably during Kulotunga or Karikala Chozhan's period.

When will the incomplete gopuram get attention?

The temple was also well patronised during the reign of the Vijayanagar dynasty. An inscription records the gift of lamps by dancing girls of a nearby temple.

Additions seemed to have also been made during the Governorship of Kudal Nayanar, a vassal of the Nayaks. A very recent inscription was interesting. It recorded verses on the deity that had appeared in the dreams of a local Tamil teacher which when recited gave the area copious rain!

We were told that they were going to be recited soon in summer and hoped that the hymn would work again.

We paused for a while to admire the small but fantastically carved wooden ceiling of a small movable mandapam that was carried around during the utsavam.

Unfortunately the pillars were not there and going by the delicate carving of the birds, it must have been a beautiful sight.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/fr/2005/03/25/stories/2005032500120300.htm

Additional Links: http://indhiya-suttrum-vaaliban.blogspot.com/2008/01/temples-in-chennai-2-sekkizhar-kovil.html

A weekend at Singampatti

PRADEEP CHAKRAVARTHY

Untouched by pollution, the palace of Singampatti Zamin is a link to the Raj.

Photos: A. Sheik Mohideen

No ordinary house this: A wing of the palace.

A DUSTY book in a dusty library, I thought was the most unlikely place to begin a story on a fascinating weekend stay in a place in the heart of the Tamil country. The 1916, Tinnevelly Gazetteer made a brief mention of Singampatti. It spoke of its picturesque situation on the right bank of the Manimutharu and two miles from the foot of the hills and the fertile fields that surrounded it excited the nature lover in us. The short history of the Singampatti Zamin added another dimension. Did the "fine and spacious bungalow and palace," the Zamindar had still exist? We had an able `conspirator' in Dr. Senthil. "Could you wangle a quick visit to the palace?" we asked half expecting a polite refusal. Surprise! Senthil not only arranged a visit but a weekend stay with T. N. S. Murugadoss Theerthapathi, Raja of Singampatti.

Verdant hills

Getting off the railway station at Tirunelveli,we took the road to Singampatti through the village of Cheranmadevi. A weather-beaten sign on the left side of the road pointed to Singampatti. The bumpy ride was offset by the Martian views on either side of the road of a rough and undulating terrain of ochre earth with boulders creating stark zen- like dry garden landscapes. This soon gave way to verdant fields and large water bodies at the foot of the green hills.

On reaching the village we were instantly directed to the palace, an unostentatious building with a front of three arches supported by pillars all painted a pale yellow. "This looks like any other house," I said to myself as we climbed up the flight of stairs, and were faced with an imposing door with a warning, "Don't enter without a prior appointment." Inside the hall, coloured skylights threw pools of light on the photographs on the wall and on the huge brass vessels stacked up in the corner. Despite its barren appearance, it only required a little imagination to visualise the wooden kiosk covered with richly embroidered cloth and the floor laid with exquisite carpets. The reverie was interrupted by the Rajah's summons. Moving across the hall we passed to a pillared corridor which served as the Rajah's office. "I was expecting an older couple," he chuckled as we entered. His encyclopaedic knowledge, especially of Tamil philosophy, was amazing. ``Read all about the family in the book," he said waving his hand imperiously. The courtesy and old-world hospitality extended were overwhelming. A guided tour by the Rajah's secretary, Kittu, was arranged.

Climbing the stone flight of stairs we went on to a grandly proportioned reception room built during the time of the Raja's father. More old photographs of the family with royalty from Travancore and Gwalior, a bear skin and carved woodwork offset the more modern furniture. Passing this we had a fleeting glimpse of the very spartan living apartments of the Rajah and climbed up for a view of the scene around us.

Singampatti's claim to immortality seemed to be more than anything else, the quality of air! The landscape around simple - lush green rice fields leading on to the foothills of the Manjolai tea estate.

This principality must have been an independent kingdom which was transformed in the 1530s into a Palayam/Poligar by the Nayaks and then British. In consequence the Zamin of the palayam would have had the right to levy taxes and administer his lands while he paid an annual rent to the Nayak/British. An earlier zamin had supported the Travancore ruler in the Ettuveetu Pillamar rebellion and in gratitude, were gifted 75,000 thousand acres of in the hills. However due to a protracted legal wrangle, much of this was taken over by the British.

Watching the sunset over this tranquil landscape, we were transported from the hustle and bustle of the concrete jungle to a life, calm and breezy. Our tour ended in the oldest part of the palace, more than 200 years old. The original palace seemed to have been a house like the other ones in the village except that it must have had a spacious compound. A few artefacts in metal, grim looking spears, a gift from Swami Vivekananda (to the Zamin for co-sponsoring his trip to Chicago) and a tile from the now defunct tile manufacturing plant of Singampatti were some of the exhibits.

"You will be staying in what used to be the andhapuram (zenana) said the Rajah's daughter and gave us a sumptuous menu to choose for dinner. We were then shown comfortable rooms set amidst a walled garden of fragrant jasmine.

Our rooms were surely old style, the entrance door with a finely carved Lakshmi panel needed a strong hand to push and the bathrooms were four rooms away from the bedroom! Sitting on the large swing, the junior Rani told us of how sumptuously furnished the room was in her grandmother's time.

The scene of action King's durbar.

The present Zamindar's grandfather was instrumental in starting a school in the village in 1905 and a hospital in 1918 and had done much to not only articulate his communities' views but also uplift those in the lower sections of society. Having freshened up we joined the Rajah in the grove that stands where the army once was stationed. The cool breeze and fragrance peppered with the Raja's tales of his education in Sri Lanka and his views on almost everything from business to politics, communities to agriculture.

Reminiscent of a bygone age, he granted audience to a local bigwig who wanted him to declare open his new shop.

Our signal to leave was the entry of a solemn procession of the local priest preceded by musicians who brought the Rajah the offerings from the temple of a puja done everyday for the Raja's wellbeing.

Where are the bearers? The queen's palanquin

We went back for dinner and were asked to wakeup early to visit the nearby falls in the hills that once belonged to the Zamin. The sky was bright and sunny even at 6 a.m. as we began our ascent. We passed the dried up Manimutharu dam and were soon at the falls.

Refreshed by the bath we had a quick picnic breakfast and headed back to the palace. We chatted once more with the Rajah and Rani and were entreated to come for the annual festival at the Sorimuthu temple.

``This is my temple and every year in the month of July on new moon day, a large number of my community congregate there and I hold court in regal robes and watch over the festivities which include even walking on fire," the Raja said.

We promised to be present and took leave. Movement froze as the Raja came out to bid us goodbye. The Palace, Singampatti Village, 627416. Tirunelvel District. Ph - 04634 250209.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/fr/2005/04/29/stories/2005042902390300.htm

Vallam Caves : Secrets in stone

Vallam Caves: Strictly for time travellers, says PRINCE FREDERICK

WALKING AROUND Vallam Caves, I can almost hear the footsteps of my ancestors. The caves, which lie two kilometres east of Chinglepet town and are reached via a dusty winding pathway off TKM (Thirukazhukundram) Road, are carved out of giant rocks that sit atop an arid hill.

Those who worked for King Mahendravarman-I once used the twisting track that leads to them. The caves, which now are a place of worship, contain a Tamil inscription that sheds some light on this Pallava king. Dating between 610 and 675 AD, this is said to be among the oldest Tamil inscriptions.

There are three caves in all, all of them neatly scooped out from the rocks and watched over by fierce-looking dwarapalakas (guards); the main cave, which is bigger than the others, is decorated with well-proportioned stone columns, one of which contains the old inscription.

The history

Archaeologists M. Lockwood and Gift Siromoney did some pioneering work on the history of the caves, which they visited over three decades ago. They were particularly struck by some of the dwarapalakas in basso-relievo at the entrances, which had unusual and curiously shaped horns. Could they be based on representations of primitive tribes such as the Gonds and Nagas who wore horns? Are the horned dwarapalakas humanised forms of Nandis? Are the horns actually snakes that sit on Nagaraja's head?

Such questions are open-ended and continue to intrigue visitors to Vallam Caves. Many of them are students of archaeology and history who conduct their field studies here. Students from schools in and around Chingelpet are also brought here in order to make history come alive for them.

Although ringed by hills and located near an artificial pond, Vallam Caves is not a pretty spot. But the caves, which lie in a half-forgotten village, hold a charm for time-travellers interested in unscrambling the past.

How To Get There

Take a train to Chinglepet and walk the couple of kilometres that separate the railhead and the caves.

You may do the same after taking a bus from Koyambedu.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2005/01/29/stories/2005012901210100.htm

Additional Links: http://indhiya-suttrum-vaaliban.blogspot.com/2007/01/caves-inaround-chennai-2-vallam-caves.html