Chitharal : History atop a hillock

The serenity you experience at the cave is worth the arduous uphill climb, says SOMA BASU

PHOTO: SOMA BASU

STEPS TO THE PAST Chitharal

After finding my way from Nagercoil to Chitharal, a tiny, unpretentious village, I stand in front of a huge Kerala-style arch. This impressive entrance at the foot of the Thirucharanmalai hillock welcomes visitors but gives them no indication of the hard climb ahead.

Lesson 1, I learnt: Don't overestimate your level of fitness. Lesson 2: It's always wise to choose a day when the sun is not too sharp to start your ascent of what is practically a vertical cliff. For, the only attraction at the end of the demanding RLT is a cave atop the hill which has rock cut sculptures of the Jain Thirthankaras and attendant deities dating back to the 9th Century A.D.

Uphill task

The moment I cross the arch and begin climbing the steps, I realise this is not an easy RLT, what with the merciless sun beating down on my face and the climb steep. Cement benches line the entire 800-metre climb but with the sun blazing down, it's impossible to sit on them. The path uphill is dotted with cashewnut trees, interspersed with other shade-giving trees. Around the benches, beds of colourful flowers have been laid and huge trees bearing red and violet flowers complete the picturesque scene - the handiwork of a former District Collector of Kanyakumari, who tried to develop Thirucharanmalai into a tourist destination.

At last, I see two men climbing downhill and hopefully ask them how far away the shrine is. They merely smile, shrug and walk on, making me wonder how much longer the trek is. But, with each step I take, it seems that I am going back in time, delving into the past, to another era. Yes, Chitharal is one of the last few vestiges of Jainism. In days of yore, this rock shrine was a pilgrim centre for the Jains.

Around the period of the decline of Jainism during the rule of the Cholas in the 11th Century, it is believed that Chandragupta Maurya, along with a Jain ascetic Badrabhahu, reached Sravanabelagola in 298 BC. Their disciples travelled to this region to spread Jainism and chose the hillock for meditation. It was, however, converted into a Hindu temple in 1250A.D., and an image of Bhagavathy was installed.

Almost an hour later, I reach the top of the craggy hill. Its name, Thirucharanmalai, means `the hill holy to the charanas'.

The charanas are said to be the eighth class of samanas who acquired the siddhi by which they could conceal themselves in flowers, water or sky. It also means `a place where Jains live in large groups.'

Atop the hillock, a cool breeze brushes against my cheek and I take in the charming landscape. The jagged outline of the Western Ghats, enveloped by white puffs of clouds, presents a pretty picture against the blue canvas of the sky. Below, the gleaming lakes, fields, winding rivers, clusters of villages nestling amid coconut and palmyrah groves, tall church spires, lofty gopurams... appear enchanting.

I explore the natural cave that has made Chitharal so famous. What catches my attention on the hilltop are two huge rocks almost resting on each other to form a narrow opening through which you can see the beautiful landscape on the other side. Squeeze yourself through this aperture and take the natural stairway down to the rock sculptures. On the northern side of the overhanging rocks are carved images of the Thirthankaras, with their distinct hanging earlobes, the three-tiered umbrella over their tonsured heads, in sitting and standing postures. The images have broad shoulders, slender waists and a contemplative expression on their faces. Between each image are inscriptions in Vattezhuthu.

As you go around the wall of rock art, another flight of steps takes you to the imposing ruins of a temple perched right on top of the hill. Most of the deities in the central shrine are believed to be those of the Jain Thirthankaras, namely Parsvanatha and Mahavira. The Hindus, however, consider these to be images of Maha Vishnu. The central shrine is divided into three chambers — one for the Goddess, another for Mahavira, and, the third, for Parsvanatha in a standing posture. Another flight of steps leads to a pond in front of the shrine. On top of the central shrine is a brick gopuram. The three-storey pagoda apparently carried images of Mahavira. But I learnt that it was destroyed by lightning in 1908.

Tranquil spot

Chitharal is a tranquil spot — a confluence of history and religion. The serenity you experience at the cave is worth the arduous uphill climb. The district administration is busy giving the place a facelift. Many tourists have begun visiting the spot to catch a glimpse of the frescos and the panoramic view of the hills.

How to get there: Chitharal (also spelt Chidaral) is 55km from Kanyakumari, 36km from Nagercoil and 7km from Marthandam. The approach road is from Kandapuram, leading to Elanthavilas. Chitharal is located exactly 4km North East of Kuzhithurai.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2007/04/07/stories/2007040700400300.htm