Thirumayam : History on a Hillock

Thirumayam: there's splendour in these ruins, says SOMA BASU

MY CURIOSITY was kindled every time I travelled on the State highway that connects Madurai to Tiruchi. A lone cannon atop a raised platform, which peeped innocuously out of the ruins of a fort raised on a hillock, never failed to do this to me. The last time I was on the highway, my curiosity got the better of me: I stopped.

A blue board on the road to the fort from the highway informed me that I was on my way to a heritage town — Thirumayam. It was an unusually quiet summer morning. The fort is ringed with houses and there are rock-cut temples in each of its corners. The fiery glow of the burning sun was unpleasant and it didn't get any better as I decided to explore this living heritage, one of the four protected monuments under the Archaeological Survey of India in Pudukkottai district.

There must be a more leisurely way of doing this fort, but such citadels of the past have become part of today's touch-and-go tourism. Beaten by weather, it is in a state of disrepair and the vandalism that has marred the ruins is really saddening.

But it was difficult not to feel a sense of history nevertheless. A five-rupee ticket took me inside this 17th Century structure. A flight of rocky steps transported you to a fort perched on a hillock-top. The fort is said to be built in 1687 by Vijaya Regunatha Thevar, the Sethupathy of Ramanathapuram. History stares at you from every stone. To enjoy, you need to sit down and soak in the atmosphere.

As I walked through the ruins, I heard a voice behind me: "Look and appreciate the old craftsmanship, this is among the well preserved citadels." It was the man from the ticket counter enthusiastically catching up with me. Not many people come here, he told me, justifying his absence from the ticket counter. But during weekends, some families and youngsters arrive to get away from it all, he added.

He turned out to be a useful guide. History has it that the fort played an important role during the Tondaiman rule in Pudukkottai. During World War II, the fort was used as an arsenal by the British Army. Originally, it seems there was an additional fortification that ringed the existing structure with seven concentric walls and a broad moat all around. Today, the remnants appear to be balanced solidly on huge rocks. The walls above the rocks, which enclose the main citadel, are well preserved.

As the only visitor, there was a luxurious sense of anonymity. After exploring the fort and reconstructing in my mind what it must have looked like in its days of glory, there was not much to do but sit under the shade of a tree or enjoy the cool natural caverns. You can also look out of the jagged edges of the fort walls or peep through the square spy holes to see the spread of townships and assess the importance of such a strategic location.

I walked up to the platform that overlooks acres of green fields, and a mesh of newly constructed buildings interspersed with coconut, palm and banana trees on all sides. It was a pretty scene. It might have been prettier if I was not squinting in the bright sunshine. My friendly volunteer then pointed to a small water body, which is fenced now. The story goes that hidden under the water there are eight steps that lead to an underground tank. The water in it is believed to be as holy as the teertham in Rameswaram.

As for the temples around the fort, there is a rock-cut Siva Temple assignable to the times of Muttarayars of the 8th Century. There is a Vishnu temple, and there are also shrines of Bhairava, Hanuman and Ganesha, guardian deities of the fort. This monument is well worth a visit. Get acquainted with some history before coming, pack a pair of sunglasses and, if you plan to spend a few hours in the ruins, remember to pack a hamper.

How to get there:

Thirumayam Fort is 19 km from Pudukkottai town, which lies on the Chennai-Rameswaram railway line. The district is rich in archaeological sites, one of which was covered in an earlier RLT — Sittanavasal. There are decent hotels in Pudukkotai and day trips can be undertaken to these various sites with help from guides.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2004/09/25/stories/2004092500510100.htm

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Viralimalai : Wild peacock chase!

Viralimalai: but where are the birds, asks SOMA BASU

ALL RIGHT, it was the lure of peacocks. It wasn't the famed Muruga Temple that took me to Viralimalai and my indifference to the Lord taught me a lesson. I spent the day on a `wild peacock chase', hearing stories about the divine status of the national bird but hardly seeing any in this small temple town near Tiruchi. The tourism brochure (never, never believe in it) misled me by describing Viralimalai as famous for its peacock sanctuary. As an RLT junkie, I jumped at the idea and jumped on a taxi.

The bus route from Madurai to Tiruchi on the NH 45B was smooth, barring the odd speed breaker. This was not going to be my first date with peacocks, but my interest was fired by the thought of seeing them in dozens at one place. In my mind, I equated it with the famous penguin parade in Melbourne. Close to Viralimalai, there were boys selling peacock feathers sealed in cellophane paper, waving frantically to potential customers. They asked for Rs. 100 but settled for Rs. 20 without so much as a protest leaving me with the suspicion that I had paid too much. From the main road to the narrow street leading to the village, I saw more feathers than I wanted to. But where were the peacocks? A question asked at the forest office elicited an answer, "There". I saw a finger pointing to a garbage dump. On the other side, indeed there were two peacocks chasing each other in the bushes. Obviously, I wanted to see more. "Wait, wait, they will come," he assured me. But hours rolled by and there was no sign of the birds. How would I get a photo? How would I write an RLT, I wondered? I wandered around aimlessly till the truth dawned on me when Forest Ranger Jagan Mohan asked: "What, peacock sanctuary are you looking for?" After some prodding, he admitted that until about 18 months ago, there "was a sanctuary." There were about 150 birds, most of them residents on the temple hillock. Thanks to the Forest Department's supply of grain, the number rose to 400, forcing the Department to stop feeding and letting the birds on their own. The birds then decided to move along and now the estimated population of 500-plus is scattered over Pudukkottai district. Result: Viralimalai's claim as a home for peacocks is a gross exaggeration.

However, the temple priests continue the practice of feeding and a sizeable number turns up each day.

I ended up counting the 210 steps on the small,rocky hill that takes you to the 18th Century temple. Ringed by thick wooden arches, its facade boasts of colourfully carved peacocks.

Marvellous stories

A devotee regaled me with marvellous stories about the place. A unique practice here is that a cheroot is offered to Lord Subrahmanya along with the neiveidyam and later given as prasadam to devotees. The story goes that a worshipper who chain-smoked was a regular visitor. On one such visit, he was cut off from where he came by heavy rain and flash floods. With no food and unable to get his nicotine fix, he prayed to Lord Muruga who appeared and voila ... provided him with a cheroot and a matchstick. Ever since, the community offers cheroots to the Lord.

The boulders one sees on the Viralimalai hills are believed to be more than rocks. They are said to be the agglomeration of bodies of yogis who sat in penance and attained samadhi. Apparently, the peacocks here know which one is a `yogi rock' and which one is merely sedimentary. They select only yogi rocks to dance upon and shed their feathers.

A devotee pointed towards a rock with a peacock perched on it. And then there were two on the street below...one more on the steps...and three more by the temple wall. The truth is I saw only eight of them. Not much for a peacock sanctuary... but then I should have gone to Viralimalai for the temple in the first place, yes?

How to get there

Nearest railheads: Tiruchi and Pudukkottai. At a distance of 40 km North-West of Pudukkottai and 33 km South of Tiruchi. Located on Madurai-Tiruchi bus road with frequent bus services.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2005/02/05/stories/2005020502310100.htm