Thandigudi : Beauty at its peak

Swirling mist, winding paths and lush vegetation... the hills are a trekker's paradise, says SOMA BASU

PHOTOS: SOMA BASU

SERENE AND SCENIC Deserted home of a tribal.

On learning that Thandigudi is also known as "Aadha Kodai" (half Kodaikanal!), I set out on this RLT with mixed feelings. Forty-five km from Kodaikanal, on the road to Dindigul, is this revenue village that has an old- world charm at an elevation of 1,500 metres. But I could hardly believe the package of surprises that lay in store for me atop the hill.

First, the journey. As I took the Dindigul Road from Madurai and on to Batlagundu and the Chittaravu forest check-post, the heat and dust gave way to cool verdure. The tranquillity of the drive that wound up 23 hairpin bends on the Thandigudi ghat road was shattered by a convoy of cars. Allowing them to overtake, I followed the cavalcade at my pace only to find them parked next to the State Horticulture Farm and the Forest Department guest house, roughly six km short of Thandigudi.

Casual queries revealed an elephant, apparently ailing, had died in the morning bringing the Assistant Conservator of Forests, the Forest Ranger, Forest Guard and other staff to the spot. With the public banned from entering the area, I decided against wasting my time here and proceeded to my RLT destination.

Thandigudi, surrounded by the green Palani hills, looked like many other mini hill stations that have been written about in this column, including Sirumalai, Pachalur and Yercaud. Besides coffee and cardamom plantations, the landscape is filled with vanilla, pepper, hill banana, citron and medicinal plants. Carnations and other varieties of flowers added a dash of colour to the greenery. I chose to explore the place on foot.

Enveloped in small shola forests, Thandigudi used to have many trekking routes. But now, they are all damaged by prolonged wet spells and the wild growth of flora. Wild boar, barking deer, bison and sambar are occasionally spotted here and in the surrounding evergreen forests. But the department no longer allows trekkers into the forest. Only its staff goes on an occasional recce.

I stuck to the tarred road and followed a sign post which said Watch Tower, Pannaikadu. For city slickers it is a refreshing change to trek in the hills.

Visual treat

The winding road leading to the hilltop.

The backdrop formed by rolling green hills with a dreamy mist swirling up kept me busy with my camera. To reach the watch tower, I had to take a small detour on a slippery muddy track into the forest. The only wildlife I managed to spot was a pair of tiger lizards. But before I could photograph them, they disappeared into the bushes.

Work on the watch tower is yet to be completed. But a labourer at the site assured me it was safe to climb up and enjoy the view.

And it was captivating indeed. The lush vegetation was a visual treat and the long, winding road cutting through the hills was picturesque. In the valley below, the Maruthanathi, a squarish water body, reflected the silver rays of the sun as they tried to penetrate the grey clouds. A dewy haze filled the area that seemed painted blue. The worker pointed to a peak called the "periya malai", perhaps because it looks the tallest and to a cluster of rocks called "ponnu mapillai rock". Taking a closer look at the rock I realised it looked like a bride and groom, surrounded by friends!

As I prepared to return, the worker told me to check out the echoing rock and the dolmen cave. I skipped the first, but took a dekko at the now deserted ancient home of a tribal.

Walking down, I passed by the Central Coffee Research Station, the Indian Cardamom Research Institute and the Regional Spice Board Research Station.

Thandigudi may have been dubbed `Aadha Kodai' but the beauty and serenity here cannot quite be experienced in the more famous Kodaikanal.

How to get there

Thandigudi can also be reached by Palani-Oddanchatram check-post. It is 56 km from Dindigul, 45 km from Kodaikanal, 88 km from Palani, 97 km from Madurai and 126 km from Thekkady.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2006/10/16/stories/2006101600290300.htm

Chinnampathy - Vettu Maduvu Aruvi : Oh, What a fall it was!

A tryst with Nature, writes PANKAJA SRINIVASAN

PHOTOS: K. ANANTHAN

ADVENTUROUS TREK The waterfall

"Don't let go of my hand, no matter what," he says to me. "Not till death do us part, pal," I mutter under my breath as I tighten my grip. And the end seems to be a very real possibility as I sway and teeter and desperately try not to go over the edge, in more ways than one...

After a long gap, the prospect of an RLT into the great outdoors to a waterfall seemed lovely. So our photographer Ananthan and I set out to discover the beauties of Vettu Maduvu Aruvi — a day's trip no more. The start was propitious enough, with our car speeding away from the heat and dust towards the beautiful green hills of the Coimbatore range.

At the railway gate, I watch idly as the guard plucks a pavakkai growing wild, examines it and puts it away — a surprise for the wife no doubt. The Shoranur-Coimbatore train hurtles past and the silence is overwhelming.

Forest guard C. Renganathan awaits us at the check post. A sense of importance as an escort comprising one milkman, two anti-poaching personnel and, of course, the forest guard is provided.

Jumbo walk

This is elephant terrain. The halo diminishes somewhat as one watches the team arming themselves with small explosives and scythes, the former to scare away the elephants and the latter to cut a path through the jungles.

"Totally out, madam," says one of the escorts as he recounts with relish how his compatriot had been trampled to death by an elephant, just where we were headed, and he does a little stomping dance to better illustrate how the deed was done.

A last longing look at our car and we start our march. Hardly a short walk away and we stop to remove our shoes. It is a grove of trees with bells hanging from them — offerings to the residing deity Muniappan. Tribals pray before they enter the jungle. Just beyond is the Walayar river and we cautiously step into the waters to get across. In my heart, I am longing to suggest that this itself could be a great RLT, why go further? But, it is too late and we are now climbing, climbing, climbing, and then some more...

Enter the jungle

This is a perfect habitat for elephants as there is plenty of food, water and minimal human intervention. As I clutch my side and gasp my way onwards and upwards, every rock looks like a baleful elephant and every rustle of leaves sounds like an imminent charge. At this juncture, Sivamani the milkman enlightens us about the malaipaambu that also make their home here. So, now, I also have to watch out for pythons.

Breathtaking

Everything looks freshly painted in shades of green. Every time we stop to catch our breath, there is an impromptu botany class — it is amazing what a treasure trove of information the `simple folks' have and in contrast how little we know about nature, enveloped as we are by smoke, stink and squalor of city life.

It is time to catch our breath again, this time for another reason — a spectacular view of a waterfall in the distance. That is where we are headed. We quicken our steps as we know that a treat awaits us. And, reach a good two hours later.

The forest

For a want of a better adjective, it is awesome. A cascade of water crashes down and splashes up again. We reach the spot. On one side a quiet river, flanked by trees with overhanging branches, bubbles and gurgles over friendly round rocks and then suddenly, as if realising it is late for an appointment, it gathers speed and rushes off in a hurry to the spot where it metamorphoses into a great big waterfall.

Footloose

It is the best pedicure anywhere in the world, as you dip your feet into the water. It is freezing cold at first and then pure bliss. Silky water washes over your poor urban feet and with only a grasshopper overseeing the take off and landing of hovercraft-like insects, one could stay there forever.

But return we have to and once again we cross the stream and this time we have to go down the hill all the way, negotiating forest, thorny bushes, red ants, elephants and god knows what other perils. If I live to tell the tale, my odyssey would be the subject matter of my next RLT.

How to go

Permission of the DFO has to be sought before visiting Vettu Maduvu Aruvi. Call the DFO's office at 0422-2302925. It lies off the Coimbatore-Palakkad Road. Just before the Walayar Bridge, take the road going right towards Chinnampathy. Drive on till you reach the forest check post (approximately one km from the main road). From this point, the foothills are about six km.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2006/12/16/stories/2006121600190200.htm