Kulasekarapattinam : Picnic on the beach

At last, an RLT destination teeming with people, says SOMA BASU

PHOTO: A. SHAIKMOHIDEEN

KULASEKARAPATTINAM A beach that comes alive for Dasara

It was a unique place for an RLT. Kulasekarapattinam in Thoothukudi District boasts a fine beach. Formerly, it was a minor port having trade links with Sri Lanka. But after Tuticorin became a major port, Kulasekarapattinam lost its status.

The coastal village is famous for its 300-year old Muthuraman Koil located on the seashore. When I landed there, I discovered a setting that was quite different from anything I had imagined. I had hoped to unwind on a secluded beach with only the sound of waves for company. But, Kulasekarapattinam was bustling with activity. I was surrounded by a sea of people, and the sound of water was barely audible. The area resonated with the rhythmic beat of drums. The occasion was Dasara, which is celebrated with pomp at the temple. Folk artistes from all over the State converge here to participate in the 10-day festival. The beach looked like a fair ground and the performances reminded me of the natyotsavs at Puri.

Hawkers selling conch shell items, rudraksha malas, plastic toys and T-shirts, added to the mela atmosphere. Everything had a rural overtone and children and adults appeared to enjoy themselves to the hilt.

"I stay in the village and visit the beach often. But during Dasara, the place is completely transformed," said Muthuvelachamy, a fisherman.

But what about the litter strewn around... the plastic carry bags, paper cups and plates? Apparently, the locals form a team of volunteers to maintain a degree of cleanliness during and after the festival by cleaning up the place and asking people to throw the waste in the bins provided.

Time slipped by on the Kulasekarapattinam beach. I enjoyed the folk programme, wove my way through the crowd and walked along the shore occasionally dipping my feet in the water.

Once the festival is over, the sound of the waves takes over again. Kulasekarapattinam was named after King Kulasekarapandiyan during whose reign, it is said, the city prospered.

As there are no boarding and lodging facilities or restaurants around, go prepared for a picnic.

How to get there: Kulasekarapattinam is on Thoothukudi-Tiruchendur/ Kanyakumari road. It is about 60 km from Thoothukudi town and 20 km from Tiruchendur. From Tirunelveli, it is 68 km and 65 km from Kanyakumari.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2005/10/15/stories/2005101501360300.htm

Ayyanar Sunai : On Nature's trail

A confluence of water, forest and sand dunes, says SOMA BASU

DENSE CANOPY Thicket of Talambumaram in Ayyanar Sunai

What a strange place for an RLT! I almost mistake it for a forest, then a beach and then, a desert! But the truth is Ayyanar Sunai is a fine spot where the elements of Nature blend. And it is actually known for a natural spring which has water throughout the year.

I set out for Ayyanar Sunai, a place that has been dismissed as just another "beautiful picnic spot" in tourism brochures. It is situated about 40-odd km from Tiruchendur.

On every RLT trip, I always wish the sun would be kinder, to enable me to enjoy the lush scenery. The busy highway from Tirunelveli to Thoothukudi takes a quiet turn into the countryside. I pass luxuriant paddy fields, banana plantations and coconut groves till I enter a narrow road lined with tamarind and neem trees that form a dense canopy. As I proceed further, the unique landscape unfurls like magic. To my left, the road is lined with hundreds of huge trees, with grey trunks, growing out of the water. Their thick intertwining respiratory roots, along with numerous arching branches cast a fantastic reflection in the water. The locals call it "Talambumaram" and vouch for the medicinal benefits of the oil extracted from it. Forest officials say the tree is akin to the Pandanus tree, often found near beaches.

Ayyanar Sunai is not exactly a coastal town. Yet the foliage is so thick here that it is difficult for sunlight to penetrate.

After the road takes a few more turns and curves, I come across another enchanting sight. The landscape changes and from a distance looks like a beach. The palm trees on the sandy stretch sway in the breeze. I decide to walk and soon realise that the stretch gives way to a forest, even more picturesque with its red sand dunes. I am told that the unusual formations are the result of erosion in the Western Ghats and the sand particles carried by the wind from the sea. The soil here is said to be rich in minerals.

Natural spring

The sharp sun prevents me from taking a longer walk. So I motor further down the narrow road which twists and terminates at a huge natural spring, apparently one which never runs dry and is said to possess healing properties. The water is still and glistens under the sun.

On one side of the water body is a temple dedicated to Ayyanar, a village deity, and, on the other, are the sand dunes amid a dense forest. With the temple here, one cannot call it a tranquil spot. Devotees throng the temple and litter the surroundings. As in many other places, here too civic facilities have been given a go-by, a blemish on the beautiful and rare confluence of water, forest and sand dunes. People not only come to worship at the temple but also take a dip in the spring in the hope that the waters will relieve them of their aches and pains. Small shops by the temple selling eatables, puja items, and the special oil from the talambumaram add to the chaos and the cacophony.

Yet, having said that, Ayyanar Sunai is still recommended to those wanting to experience the unique sights of Nature. If you are a genuine environment lover, you can still manage to find yourself a secluded spot where you can commune with Nature - the chirp of birds and the buzz of insects providing the background score.

Avoid hot afternoons and visit the Sunai when the sun is mild. Late evenings are better as both mercury and decibel levels dip and the illuminated temple adds to the charm of the place.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2005/06/25/stories/2005062502270700.htm

Panchalankurichi : Turn the pages of history

Memories of Veerapandiya Kattabomman remain alive, says SOMA BASU

HALL OF HISTORY At Panchalankurichi PHOTO: SOMA BASU

I am driving down the NH7 (Madurai-Tirunelveli Road). Not the right time to set out on a Road Less Travelled because though it is noon, the sky is overcast. Still, if you are the type who never felt history lessons were a drag, then Panchalankurichi is the place for you. From the highway, a right turn at Kayathar takes you to a nondescript village, but one of historic significance in Tirunelveli district. My car bumps across the track at the level crossing near the Kadambur railway station. The deserted platform presents an eerie picture.

Soon, I am on what I believe is the narrowest road I've ever traversed, a stretch riddled with potholes. The next 15 km turns out to be a bone-rattling ride. Past Ottudanapatti, I see barren fields. The area is littered with plastic waste. A small board announces — Pasuvandanani village. There are posters of Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose everywhere. A chorus emanates from a nearby adult literacy class.

I stop at the gate of a monument, the ruins of a 17th Century fort said to have been built by Veerapandiya Kattabomman. Just as I step out of the car, the skies open. I hastily purchase a ticket and enter the gates. Legend has it that while hunting in the forests of Salikulam, Kattabomman saw an amazing spectacle of a hare chasing seven hounds! Believing that the land possessed the power to instil courage in people, Kattabomman, who became king at the age of 30, built a fort here 300 years ago and named it Panchalankurichi. It was from here that he raised his voice against the British in the 17th Century. Enter the memorial hall constructed by the State Government in 1974. The beautiful paintings on the walls tell inspiring tales of the heroic deeds of the Panchalankurichi chieftains. While the fort was razed to the ground by the British to teach Kattabomman a lesson, what is left of it is now under the care of the Archaeological Survey of India. Near it is located the Sri Devi Jakammal Temple, believed to be the family deity of Kattabomman. There is also a cemetery for British soldiers.

The ruined fort makes me travel back in time. I imagine how it must have once bustled with activity, uniformed soldiers marching up and down. What a battle must have raged from the ramparts which are now nothing but rubble!

There are days when the place gets noisy with busloads of school children arriving from neighbouring districts for a history class outdoors. The monument is open from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. and from 2 p.m. to 6 p.m.

It would be ideal to combine a trip to Panchalankurichi with a visit to Ottapidaram, 13 km away. It is the birthplace of another son of the soil, V. O. Chidambaram. Also, 24 km from Tirunelveli, on the NH7 Madurai Road near Kayathar, is the spot where Kattabomman was hanged from a tamarind tree in October 1799. A monument has been built in Kattabomman's memory by thespian Sivaji Ganesan. Further on the Thoothukudi Road, about 34 km away, is Ettaiyapuram, the birth place of Mahakavi Subramania Bharati. The poet's house was converted into a memorial - Bharathiar Mani Mandapam - in 1945. The tiny village came into prominence after Mahatma Gandhi inaugurated the mandapam.

All these places can be accessed either from the Kovilpatti-Tuticorin Road or the NH7 and can be covered in a day's trip.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2005/08/13/stories/2005081301040700.htm

Korkai : Revisiting the past

If history fascinates you, says SOMA BASU

A GLORIOUS PAST The 2000-year-old veli tree in Korkai PHOTO: SOMA BASU

It is amazing how a port city can simply disappear without a trace. And that too, a port that finds mention in ancient Tamil literature and in the writings of Ptolemy and Pliny.

It's the elements of intrigue and mysticism took me to Korkai. Though the place has nothing much to offer, even today it attracts scholars, historians and archaeologists.

Located in the Srivaikundam taluk of Thoothukudi district, the exact location of the original Korkai is a matter of conjecture even now. It takes about 40 minutes from Tiruchendur to reach the place, which looks like any hamlet in the interiors.

The present village set amidst lush greenery, is believed to have `moved' several miles interior as the sea receded over the centuries.

Pearl fishing

But in its hey day, under the rule of Pandya kings of the Sangam period (12th Century), Korkai was the main area of operation for the fishermen of the region and the pearls found here were known for their quality and beauty the world over.

Descendants of pearl divers and shank cutters living in this village on the east coast now struggle to find themselves a job. Of course, most are not aware of Korkai's status as a wealthy commercial city and its fascinating history.

As the skies suddenly decide to open up, the area looks greener. I take a stroll and find women outside their thatched homes chatting as they go about their daily chores. Children play cricket with enthusiasm in the open fields.

The ruins

A youth who sees me, offers to lead me to two spots which make the present Korkai famous. One is a veli tree believed to be 2,000 years old that lies twisted on the ground. Around it are several idols, including one of the Buddha, believed to have been installed by the Pandya kings, who are said to have offered prayers here and meditated under the tree.

The other is an excavated site, the ruins of Korkai, which is under the control of the Archaeological Survey of India. The ASI unearthed pottery dating back to the Harappan civilisation. Also found were large bowls and urns in black and red, now housed in the Government Museum, Chennai.

Work is still on to find the exact location of the port. Folk beliefs, geology and geomorphology are being applied to learn more about life in the port city where the Cholas, Cheras and Pandyas are believed to have lived together. This is evident from the numerous temples scattered around which reflect the architecture of each era.

A visit to Korkai is like taking a walk down historical lane, provided you are interested in history. Or else, it can simply be turn out to be a idyllic stroll in a rural setting.

Either way, Korkai makes for a different RLT, as it fascinates and leaves you asking for more.

You can go temple hopping or discover the history of the place. Remember to carry a food hamper and enjoy Nature in its pristine form.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2005/11/05/stories/2005110500880300.htm

Kazhugumalai : Treasure Trove

Kazhugumalai: a date with history, says SOMA BASU

THERE IS a place, other than Mahabalipuram, which boasts of a monolithic rock sculpture, but rarely visited. A place which once saw eagles visiting every day as in Tirukazhukunram near Chennai. It has all the ingredients to make an interesting RLT — rock-cut shrines, Jain sculptures, ancient inscriptions, ruins — a treasure trove of history.

Surprisingly, the 8th Century architectural marvels of Kazhugumalai (hill of eagles in Tamil) remain under lock and key. The State Archaeology Department has taken upon itself to guard the site against vandalism. A small village 56 km from Tirunelveli to the West of Kovilpatti, Kazhugumalai emerges in the middle of paddy fields and scattered thatched houses. I discover that what appears to be a hill is actually a twin hillock — Kazhugumalai and Araimalai. Tamil film hits blare out of the shops and houses dotting the foothills on the two sides. As I turn towards the third side, I find a medium-sized tank filled with rainwater. Women washing clothes, children swimming and splashing around joyfully, men scrubbing their cattle and vehicles... there is so much activity though it is an unusually hot morning.

Breathtaking view

In the harsh glare of the sun, it is difficult to trace the path, though I manage to spot a fence on the top. Two eager kids show me the way. I follow them up the small steps cut here and there in the rocks. At some places, it is like a stretching exercise with big rocks serving as steps but spaced wide apart. The rest of the climb is on a pebbled pathway through spiky and dry grass. Finally, I reach the top. The breathtaking view dispels my doubt whether the trip is worth the effort at all.

The fields below resemble an extended green carpet. The gusts of wind in my face are cool and soothing. The kids, who accompany me to the top, call Gangadhar, watchman-cum-guide of the Archaeology Department, who comes running to unlock the gate.

Religious significance

Though Jainism had spread throughout the Pandya kingdom, Kazhugumalai, I learn, was an important religious centre. The Jain ascetic, Gunasagara Bhattara, is said to have lived on this hilltop. A bas-relief belonging to this period provides information about the religion and its followers.

An inscription in vattezhuthu accompanies each sculpted image. Mahavira in sitting posture carved out of a single rock and a dhyana mandapam [a cave within a cave] are ample indication of the religious significance of Kazhugumalai. The keys are missing but Gangadhar assures me that the interior of the mandapam is cool "almost like an air-conditioned room." After a brief stroll around the hillock, it is time to visit the adjacent one, which I am told, has a rare example of Pandya architecture.

Called the Vettuvan Koil, it is sheer poetry in stone. The Sivan temple, carved out of a single rock and decorated with sculpted panels and pillars, is impressive. Though incomplete, the architecture of Vettuvan Koil is compared to that of the five rathas in Mamallapuram, where each cave is scooped out of a hillside. However, the Ganesha idol in the temple looks neglected and forlorn.

Gangadhar, while guiding me, removes the waste paper that is strewn all around. He produces a tattered register filled with names of visitors to the place till date. I find that most of the tourists are foreigners and college students.

Kazhugumalai makes an interesting day-out though it is not a stand-alone destination. It can best be combined with trips to the nearby Kattabomman Memorial and Sankarankoil. On my way back, I learn that the Thoothukudi administration, barely a fortnight ago, has sanctioned funds to develop the area with parks, lighting and drinking water facilities.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2004/10/16/stories/2004101601310100.htm