Ayyanar Sunai : On Nature's trail

A confluence of water, forest and sand dunes, says SOMA BASU

DENSE CANOPY Thicket of Talambumaram in Ayyanar Sunai

What a strange place for an RLT! I almost mistake it for a forest, then a beach and then, a desert! But the truth is Ayyanar Sunai is a fine spot where the elements of Nature blend. And it is actually known for a natural spring which has water throughout the year.

I set out for Ayyanar Sunai, a place that has been dismissed as just another "beautiful picnic spot" in tourism brochures. It is situated about 40-odd km from Tiruchendur.

On every RLT trip, I always wish the sun would be kinder, to enable me to enjoy the lush scenery. The busy highway from Tirunelveli to Thoothukudi takes a quiet turn into the countryside. I pass luxuriant paddy fields, banana plantations and coconut groves till I enter a narrow road lined with tamarind and neem trees that form a dense canopy. As I proceed further, the unique landscape unfurls like magic. To my left, the road is lined with hundreds of huge trees, with grey trunks, growing out of the water. Their thick intertwining respiratory roots, along with numerous arching branches cast a fantastic reflection in the water. The locals call it "Talambumaram" and vouch for the medicinal benefits of the oil extracted from it. Forest officials say the tree is akin to the Pandanus tree, often found near beaches.

Ayyanar Sunai is not exactly a coastal town. Yet the foliage is so thick here that it is difficult for sunlight to penetrate.

After the road takes a few more turns and curves, I come across another enchanting sight. The landscape changes and from a distance looks like a beach. The palm trees on the sandy stretch sway in the breeze. I decide to walk and soon realise that the stretch gives way to a forest, even more picturesque with its red sand dunes. I am told that the unusual formations are the result of erosion in the Western Ghats and the sand particles carried by the wind from the sea. The soil here is said to be rich in minerals.

Natural spring

The sharp sun prevents me from taking a longer walk. So I motor further down the narrow road which twists and terminates at a huge natural spring, apparently one which never runs dry and is said to possess healing properties. The water is still and glistens under the sun.

On one side of the water body is a temple dedicated to Ayyanar, a village deity, and, on the other, are the sand dunes amid a dense forest. With the temple here, one cannot call it a tranquil spot. Devotees throng the temple and litter the surroundings. As in many other places, here too civic facilities have been given a go-by, a blemish on the beautiful and rare confluence of water, forest and sand dunes. People not only come to worship at the temple but also take a dip in the spring in the hope that the waters will relieve them of their aches and pains. Small shops by the temple selling eatables, puja items, and the special oil from the talambumaram add to the chaos and the cacophony.

Yet, having said that, Ayyanar Sunai is still recommended to those wanting to experience the unique sights of Nature. If you are a genuine environment lover, you can still manage to find yourself a secluded spot where you can commune with Nature - the chirp of birds and the buzz of insects providing the background score.

Avoid hot afternoons and visit the Sunai when the sun is mild. Late evenings are better as both mercury and decibel levels dip and the illuminated temple adds to the charm of the place.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2005/06/25/stories/2005062502270700.htm

Kullur Sandhai : A forgotten destination

Once a favoured spot of bird lovers and children, it is now waiting for care and attention

WATER WATER EVERYWHERE The dam site

Not sure whether this place will make for an RLT, I still head for it. So far all RLTs have been about exotic beaches, cascading waterfalls, beautiful valleys, eerie jungles, adventure treks and so on. But never a one with a "once upon a time" tag. This week's RLT is about a place that was once a beautiful spot. But neglect has rendered it, literally, a road less travelled. There was a time when anybody who fancied a date with birds thronged this place, which also reverberated with the cacophonic sounds of children having fun in the adjacent park. Now, all that remains of the park is a name board, a broken slide and a swing. The piece of land is crowded with overgrown trees. One hears that the district administration has decided to revive the place.

Barely six km from Virudhunagar town in a sleepy village called Kullur Sandhai is what was once known as Tourism Department's District Excursion Centre. It made a nice picnic spot with PWD's reservoir scheme and play equipment for children. Despite Kullur Sandhai's forgotten status, it still makes for an outing if you overcome the initial shock. Hardened by all my previous RLT treks and (mis)adventures, I reach the village centre and take a narrow muddy path full of slush now. It curves and bends through bramble and other shrubs. The familiar, yellow whitewashed wall of a PWD building or construction is visible in the background as I watch my step during the less than 30-minutes walk. The blazing sun, I left behind in Madurai. Now, I could see black clouds on the horizon. The sky threatening to burst any time and a gentle breeze refreshes me despite the not-so-inspiring surroundings. Nothing to write about in superlative terms, I tell myself. A flight of rocky steps elevates me to the dam level and what shows up is a vast watery expanse. Miniscule islands of green grass float in the placid waters that fill up the PWD's reservoir that covers almost 300 acres. With the mercy of the rain gods, the reservoir is brimming. It is `water water everywhere' but no awesome sight to behold. But a strange silence befalls.

I spot two young boys by the side of the bund, carrying books and, surprisingly, a pair of binoculars. They are preparing for their mid-term exams in a place, which they feel offers them tranquillity. There are too many disturbances in the home, they tell me, half smiling. And binocs? Well, when they get bored, they do a bit of bird watching. There was a time when tourists used to come in dribs and drabs as post-rainy season also brought flocks of pond herons, open-billed storks, cormorants and babblers. The boys tell me many terrestrial and aquatic birds visit the reservoir between November and March. Though the surrounding vegetation has now thinned, the avian population has not forgotten Kullur Sandhai. Whiling away time by the dam site, these two friends got interested in birds. They saved money and bought a pair of good binoculars. But there was nobody to guide them. So whenever they meet any amateur or professional ornithologist at the site, they take quick lessons on the avian visitors.

The place can be restored to its earlier glory with some care and attention. Like the two boys, others in Kullur Sandhai are waiting for people to return to the park and the dam site.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2006/11/13/stories/2006111300130300.htm

Kolanalli : Where the water falls!

A great time to commune with Nature, writes Subha J Rao

Photos: K. Ananthan

Beauty to behold A weaver bird’s nest at Kalamangalam and

Lush groves on either side, wayside tea stalls that break the monotony of the landscape, and a traffic-free road. Heaven! And, then, we see groups of people huddled on the road, animatedly discussing something – the rising water level of the Ca uvery, which flows through innumerable villages in the Kongu region.

Driving back as we are from another village by the river, we are not exactly inclined to visit yet another gushing river, but they hard-sell the water body at Karanampalayam, near Kolanalli (“Films used to be shot there, the water falls from a height, and you can see lots of eels and huge fish”). Convinced, we drive on to Kullanalli, on the Erode-Karur Road.

A little girl with some packets in her hand waves us down. She sells tart navapazhams that have fallen off the roadside trees.

Nearby, another shack sells freshly plucked yellow-green plantains. Indulge!

Bird’s handiwork

And, then, we see the dainty nests of weaverbirds hanging from treetops, swaying in whatever direction the wind beckons. Do stop to admire its handiwork before you proceed.

The entrance to the Jedarpalayam Bed Regulator (a mechanism to regulate the flow of the river), as the place is technically called, is not all that grand.

The road leading to it belongs to the PWD, and so, vehicles are not allowed. Park on the road, and enter through a gap between two gates. A group of college boys is also walking to the dam, shirts in hand. We soon realise why.

The roar of the river as it falls down from a height resounds long before you actually see it.

The first sight is mesmerising. For as long as the eye can see, near-white water thunders down, before fanning out to cover as much area as it can.

This is how the check dam will be till January, after which the water starts trickling down.

Beauty to behold A weaver bird’s nest at Kalamangalam and

Walking past a banana and coconut grove, we sight some fishermen, beaming at their bountiful catch. Elsewhere, families of fisher folk sit under a tree, patching up nets, and getting ready for the next day’s outing in the river. A local goddess sits nearby, her forehead smeared with vermillion and turmeric. The soolam (trident) in front of the temple is decorated with a lemon, and snorkels and fishing nets hang from its sides.

Nearby, someone is busy slicing hard bamboo stems as if it were a potato – a new coracle in the making. His friend stitches together plastic sacks, another weaves the bamboo together, a third stitches them together, and the fourth plasters it with a coat of tar.

Cross them all, and walk up a couple of steps and a bridge, and you can see the check dam unburden itself of all water with a fury. Watch intently, and you can see unsuspecting water plants coasting, and then gathering sudden speed before they are flung down the dam. The foamy water devours all. Sometimes, even careless bathers.

On one bank, fresh fish is being traded. The shallow waters there provide temporary hope for the netted fish before they reach someone’s dining table.

Eels are common in this spot, and they hide between the rocks underwater.

This is where we find the boys. They use their shirts to get a grip on the wriggling beauties, and pose for photographs, before flinging them back into the water.

A little distance away, tens of coracles that have returned after the early morning catch are tied to stakes dug into the ground.

Stone steps lead you close to the check dam. Since the flow is heavy, we are content sitting on the steps, and watching the water carry on its merry dance.

How to go

Kolanalli is 33 km from Erode, and 13 km from the Ganapathipalayam Pirivu.

Courtesy : http://www.hindu.com/mp/2007/08/04/stories/2007080450220300.htm

Kalamangalam : A river flows through

Kalamangalam Where you can catch the Cauvery in a tearing hurry, writes SUBHA J RAO

It is just a day since water has started flowing from the Mettur Dam. Friends from Erode call to tell us the rivers are full and flowing again, and make for a beautiful sight. “An RLT?” I wonder. And, realise a couple of hours later that I was right.

The drive from Erode on the Karur Road is a lesson in how bountiful Nature can get. Banana groves lush with ready-to-pluck plantains, perfectly formed coconuts, and happy farmers are frequent sights.

En route to Mannadhampalayam, where the Kalamangalam temple is located, and the Cauvery flows, smoke billows from the many fields set afire after harvest, releasing a sugary aroma in the air. Channels (vaaikaals) brimming with water, and a railway crossing framed by trees make for beautiful sights.

River placid

Finally, the river. Before you walk to the banks, you sight three temples, one each dedicated to Shiva, Vishnu and Amman. The first two date back to more than a thousand years. A huge peepul tree marks the pathway to the river, gushing and flowing placid, in turns.

Photos: K. Ananthan

PERFECT SETTING At Kalamangalam

Everywhere you can see temporary green islands formed by bulbous water hyacinth uprooted by the river as it rushed down from Mettur. The local fisherfolk are a happy lot, for their fortunes boom when the water flows. The men are already out in their parisals (coracles), ready to haul back whatever fish they net.

The other side of the bank is Iraimangalam in Tiruchengode (Namakkal district). And, the coracles ferry you there for a charge. Only, you need at least ten passengers to keep it afloat in the choppy waters. So, we give it a miss. From this shore, all you can see are matchbox-sized huts, three stone pillars (part of a water pumping system), and lots of people buzzing about.

In between the river is a sandy patch with a bit of greenery. The locals expect it will also go underwater by the evening. And, that is what happens. This patch is where the local waterbirds take rest in between feasting on fish and other marine life. Snow white cranes, black ‘neer kaakai’ (little cormorants), and other birds that are a speck in the sky make for a perfect photo-op. And, Ananthan never stops clicking.

Walking a little distance in the wet sand, the stench of ammonia invades the nostrils. We climb on rocks polished over the years by the rough waters and, predictably, see a gaggle of geese, and a team of ducks nearby.

The rocks are also home to slightly-damaged stone idols of gods, abandoned on the banks of the river by temples and devotees. One of them catches our fancy. A goddess (face unclear) has found her resting place on a damaged Shivalinga. Another idol lies facedown, its water-filled crevices sheltering the insects that thrive in puddles. Placed near them are rudimentary coops, fashioned out of canvas and bamboo, to house the hens and ducks.

Walking past a family of fisher folk who are moving their belongings to high ground in anticipation of the rising water level, we reach an umbrella-like structure made of stone. It shelters nine statues, which the locals insist are the n avagrahas.

A word of warning. The water level will be unstable for a few weeks to come. So, if you love diving into the water, restrain yourself. Just stand on the banks, or plonk yourselves on the numerous rocks around and take in the sight of a river flowing by.

How to go

From Erode, take the road leading to Karur, and drive till Ganapathypalayam (20 km). Turn left at the ‘four roads’ junction, and drive about 2.5 km to reach the river.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2007/07/28/stories/2007072851290200.htm

Nerur : Stop here, or gently pass

Water, water everywhere and quiet it flows, writes SUBHA J RAO

PHOTOS: K. ANANTHAN

RIVER, ROCKS, FIELDS, GROVES... It all makes for an idyllic setting at Nerur and Velur

After heaving myself onto unruly rocks and trekking to a windswept fort, it's time for a change of scene. So, Nerur. The Cauvery gurgles merrily down this village in Karur district.

Lush green fields, twittering birds, a glimmering sheet of water, a lone kingfisher perched on an electric wire, my mind and camera go click, click, click...

For ages, Nerur has been known only to locals and those who venerate the 18th Century saint Sadasiva Brahmendrar (his samadhi is near the banks of the river). Luckily, its rustic charm has been protected over the years.

The river is what makes Nerur so attractive. We take the longer route from Velayudhampalayam (20 km away, through Vaangal) and drive through paddy fields, groves of coconut and fragrant betel leaves, swaying fields of korai grass, banana plantations and village after village where harvesting is on.

Dried paddy has been spread on the road waiting to be de-husked for free by vehicles passing by. We do our share and then move on to a quieter part of the village. Here is the samadhi. Absolute silence prevails and even the rustling of leaves sounds loud. Enter the well-maintained compound and the fragrance of the creamy yellow nagalinga flower, shaped like a serpent, envelops you.

The silence inside is more intense. A group of five is meditating around a sari-covered tree. The mediation hall is partly open to the sky and in the middle of a grove of sorts. A solitary lamp lights up the area.

The river is a short drive from here. You could even walk the distance. The rains have been good this year, and so, the Cauvery is in full flow. Two small streams rich with frolicking bite-sized fish and tadpoles lead the way to the river.

The small sand bank in the middle is home to an endless variety of cowries and mollusc shells which I can't resist collecting. The unending stretch of water, the samadhi, coconut groves and the sky painted a uniform blue is beautiful. Then, I succumb to the child in me and tentatively dip my toes in the cold water. An infant from the village, waiting on the banks for his father, wonders what the fuss is all about.

This is also windy territory. So, anchor your belongings to the bank with a stick before you hit the water. I try to recall all I know about swimming and put them to practical use. Since the water can get deep, I stick to the shore. Even here, it is chest-deep. The water is clean and unpolluted and the river is free from human interference.

One more river

During the course of this RLT, we also visit Paramathi Velur in Namakkal district. The Cauvery flows along this town, nourishing the land and keeping it fertile. Velur is known for its troika of ancient Shiva temple situated on the banks of the river, the crematorium in front of the temple and the river itself. It is said to be the only place after Kashi where a temple and crematorium face each other. Drive through betel and ready-for-harvest banana groves to reach the crumbling Shiva temple, dating back 600 years or more. After decades of neglect, it is now being renovated. The water in this stretch of the river is not as clean it used to be, with pollutants and detergents marring the once-clear surface. The view from the bank is great though. Sit for a while and see locals and fishermen go about their job carrying coracles on their shoulders.

How to get there

Nerur is 15 km from Karur. Paramathi Velur lies along the National Highway 7 and is 24 km from Karur.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2006/07/31/stories/2006073100320300.htm