Dhimbam : Journey into the heart of the jungle

Get hypnotised by the calm, says PANKAJA SRINIVASAN

PHOTOS: K. ANANTHAN

WATCH THEM IN THE WILD Spotted deer.

Some wise guy on the Travel and Living Channel said, "It is not the destination, but the journey there that matters." This RLT was something like that. The destination was "Tiger Farm", a spot tigers frequented once upon a time. With ridiculously improbable visions of cats roaming, romping and slumbering in the sun, we depart for Thalamalai, somewhere in the Sathyamangalam forests.

But first things first and breakfast is at Sri Ramavilas at Sathyamangalam. Hot pongal and vadai followed by coffee and a friendly conversation with R. Venkatraman, the owner, who says R. K. Narayan has eaten here. Then, safe in the belief that Bannari Amman is watching over us, (we visit her temple in the foothills), we set off.

The fun begins when we start the climb — 27 hairpin bends. We stop to watch a huge container struggling to make the turn. "Ever forward, never backward" says a pithy message emblazoned on the lorry. No wonder, all that trouble to reverse! I turn my attention to the other side of the road where a terse "Sound Okay Horn," is all the luxury of words that truck owner will allow himself.

Soon, we reach Dhimbam. There, we take a left turn and drive into thick forests. Surprisingly, the road is great. And, oh the silence... there are just a few birds exchanging notes, only occasionally. Suddenly, a streak of orange as a pack of furry creatures crosses our paths. Sennaai (wild dogs) says our driver. Before we can aim and shoot, they are gone, but not before flashing us looks of dislike.

I actually feel like the paparazzi — rude, insensitive and intrusive. Take the Grey Wagtail, in the rock pool where we have pulled up. It is minding its own business — absorbed in some complex preening ritual and we stare at its every move as it flits from rock to rock, looks at itself in the water, takes a sip or two and does a little happy jig. I wonder, if it really doesn't know we are there ogling at it. Or, may be it does. Watching the bird and sitting amidst mind numbing silence, I actually doze off for a few minutes!

A Brahminy kite at Thalamalai.

That is the greatest thing about this RLT. It is all about breathing in clean, sweet air and being hypnotised by the utter silence. It is a lovely, dreamy feeling. And, it is an ornithologist's heaven. Some spotted deer complete the feeling of euphoria.

But, we still have to see the gambolling tigers! And, of course, we don't. Tiger Farm is just an old bungalow built by a white man, near a pool where tigers once met over a drink. The yellow-washed bungalow looks intriguing. But, it belongs to someone and the caretaker is unwilling to let us in. So, we look at it from outside, and move on even as a Brahminy kite makes a repast of a short-lived reptile.

Permission: It is a protected area so contact the DFO's Office at 04295-220312 before you set off.

How to get there: From Coimbatore drive up to Sathyamangalam from where Dhimbam is approximately 25 km. At Dhimbam, turn left. The forest drive begins almost immediately.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2007/01/20/stories/2007012001270400.htm

Kodumanal : Stone spell

Kodumanal: beautiful but neglected, says SOMA BASU

A BURIAL site for an RLT trip? Everybody thought I was crazy. Maybe I was, but this "ghostland" was no ordinary one. As I discovered, my destination was a place of tremendous archaeological value, historicity and antiquity. And so here is the story of this surprise of surprises by the banks of the river Noyyal.

Once known as Kodumanam and today as Kodumanal, it is a neglected area with remains of a megalithic settlement dating back to the 2nd Century B.C. Apparently, this was the centre the Romans used to visit to obtain beryls in the beginning of the Christian era! Excavations carried out three decades ago unearthed the importance of this place, but yet it remains like a forgotten chapter in history.

Kodumanal village is so unknown that I draw a blank whenever I ask for directions on my way from Dindigul to Dharmapuram to Kangeyam village. Everybody thinks I am confusing my destination with Kodumudi, famous for its three-in-one temple of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva. This sleepy hamlet lies between Coimbatore and Erode and exceptionally well-maintained tar-topped roads lead you to the site. The only people who were able to help with directions were the really elderly ones.

The credit of discovering the site, which extends over 50 hectares, goes to the State Archaeological Department. It acted on a tip off from a local person — Ramaswamy, manager of Thangaman temple in the village, near whose house stands one of the megalithic stones. It wasn't an easy task for Ramaswamy to convince people of the importance of the stones. He had spent years trying to tell people — even those in history, literature and other research departments of universities — that his village was no ordinary village.

Megalithic tombs

Finally, help came in the late Seventies. Excavations revealed layers of a megalithic-cum-early historic period. Two females and one male human skeleton were recovered from a pit burial, 300 megalithic tombs of different types and sizes were observed and recorded, Roman artefacts, iron melting furnaces, beads, shell bangles and pottery with the Brahmi script were recovered from the habitation deposits and burials.

It was believed that the megalithic communities flourished from 2nd Century B.C. to 2nd Century A.D. The inhabitants were highly skilled craftsmen specialising in making beads and high quality iron. The place is referred to in Sangam literature as an important industrial centre that had links with the Chola port city of Kaveripoompattinam.

But sadly, this place that traded in precious stones such as garnet and quartz and produced the finest iron (legend, probably apocryphal, has it that the rustless wonder called the Iron Pillar in Qutub Minar was produced here!) is uncared for today.

The neglect is so obvious that one finds several of the megalithic stones — a number that has dwindled to 100 for unknown reasons — hidden behind tall and wild plants and weeds.

The stones are scattered all over and children, ignorant of the site's importance, play and cause further damage to what survives. Ramaswamy and his son try to keep some spots with megalithic stones clean to preserve them for posterity.

Located by the north bank of river Noyyal, a tributary of the Cauvery, Kodumanal holds out plenty of charm. What did I do? I walked and walked around in the area with an eerie feeling of stepping into an ancestral past. Even gazing at the stones filled me with amazement.

I crossed the river on a makeshift wood plank to reach the village temple on the other side.

With coconut groves in the background and many water birds flying low over the river, I wondered why such a beautiful place that boasts of so much history should be allowed to decay. Would writing an RLT help in some way to restore its diminishing glory?

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2005/03/19/stories/2005031902020100.htm

Kolanalli : Where the water falls!

A great time to commune with Nature, writes Subha J Rao

Photos: K. Ananthan

Beauty to behold A weaver bird’s nest at Kalamangalam and

Lush groves on either side, wayside tea stalls that break the monotony of the landscape, and a traffic-free road. Heaven! And, then, we see groups of people huddled on the road, animatedly discussing something – the rising water level of the Ca uvery, which flows through innumerable villages in the Kongu region.

Driving back as we are from another village by the river, we are not exactly inclined to visit yet another gushing river, but they hard-sell the water body at Karanampalayam, near Kolanalli (“Films used to be shot there, the water falls from a height, and you can see lots of eels and huge fish”). Convinced, we drive on to Kullanalli, on the Erode-Karur Road.

A little girl with some packets in her hand waves us down. She sells tart navapazhams that have fallen off the roadside trees.

Nearby, another shack sells freshly plucked yellow-green plantains. Indulge!

Bird’s handiwork

And, then, we see the dainty nests of weaverbirds hanging from treetops, swaying in whatever direction the wind beckons. Do stop to admire its handiwork before you proceed.

The entrance to the Jedarpalayam Bed Regulator (a mechanism to regulate the flow of the river), as the place is technically called, is not all that grand.

The road leading to it belongs to the PWD, and so, vehicles are not allowed. Park on the road, and enter through a gap between two gates. A group of college boys is also walking to the dam, shirts in hand. We soon realise why.

The roar of the river as it falls down from a height resounds long before you actually see it.

The first sight is mesmerising. For as long as the eye can see, near-white water thunders down, before fanning out to cover as much area as it can.

This is how the check dam will be till January, after which the water starts trickling down.

Beauty to behold A weaver bird’s nest at Kalamangalam and

Walking past a banana and coconut grove, we sight some fishermen, beaming at their bountiful catch. Elsewhere, families of fisher folk sit under a tree, patching up nets, and getting ready for the next day’s outing in the river. A local goddess sits nearby, her forehead smeared with vermillion and turmeric. The soolam (trident) in front of the temple is decorated with a lemon, and snorkels and fishing nets hang from its sides.

Nearby, someone is busy slicing hard bamboo stems as if it were a potato – a new coracle in the making. His friend stitches together plastic sacks, another weaves the bamboo together, a third stitches them together, and the fourth plasters it with a coat of tar.

Cross them all, and walk up a couple of steps and a bridge, and you can see the check dam unburden itself of all water with a fury. Watch intently, and you can see unsuspecting water plants coasting, and then gathering sudden speed before they are flung down the dam. The foamy water devours all. Sometimes, even careless bathers.

On one bank, fresh fish is being traded. The shallow waters there provide temporary hope for the netted fish before they reach someone’s dining table.

Eels are common in this spot, and they hide between the rocks underwater.

This is where we find the boys. They use their shirts to get a grip on the wriggling beauties, and pose for photographs, before flinging them back into the water.

A little distance away, tens of coracles that have returned after the early morning catch are tied to stakes dug into the ground.

Stone steps lead you close to the check dam. Since the flow is heavy, we are content sitting on the steps, and watching the water carry on its merry dance.

How to go

Kolanalli is 33 km from Erode, and 13 km from the Ganapathipalayam Pirivu.

Courtesy : http://www.hindu.com/mp/2007/08/04/stories/2007080450220300.htm

Kalamangalam : A river flows through

Kalamangalam Where you can catch the Cauvery in a tearing hurry, writes SUBHA J RAO

It is just a day since water has started flowing from the Mettur Dam. Friends from Erode call to tell us the rivers are full and flowing again, and make for a beautiful sight. “An RLT?” I wonder. And, realise a couple of hours later that I was right.

The drive from Erode on the Karur Road is a lesson in how bountiful Nature can get. Banana groves lush with ready-to-pluck plantains, perfectly formed coconuts, and happy farmers are frequent sights.

En route to Mannadhampalayam, where the Kalamangalam temple is located, and the Cauvery flows, smoke billows from the many fields set afire after harvest, releasing a sugary aroma in the air. Channels (vaaikaals) brimming with water, and a railway crossing framed by trees make for beautiful sights.

River placid

Finally, the river. Before you walk to the banks, you sight three temples, one each dedicated to Shiva, Vishnu and Amman. The first two date back to more than a thousand years. A huge peepul tree marks the pathway to the river, gushing and flowing placid, in turns.

Photos: K. Ananthan

PERFECT SETTING At Kalamangalam

Everywhere you can see temporary green islands formed by bulbous water hyacinth uprooted by the river as it rushed down from Mettur. The local fisherfolk are a happy lot, for their fortunes boom when the water flows. The men are already out in their parisals (coracles), ready to haul back whatever fish they net.

The other side of the bank is Iraimangalam in Tiruchengode (Namakkal district). And, the coracles ferry you there for a charge. Only, you need at least ten passengers to keep it afloat in the choppy waters. So, we give it a miss. From this shore, all you can see are matchbox-sized huts, three stone pillars (part of a water pumping system), and lots of people buzzing about.

In between the river is a sandy patch with a bit of greenery. The locals expect it will also go underwater by the evening. And, that is what happens. This patch is where the local waterbirds take rest in between feasting on fish and other marine life. Snow white cranes, black ‘neer kaakai’ (little cormorants), and other birds that are a speck in the sky make for a perfect photo-op. And, Ananthan never stops clicking.

Walking a little distance in the wet sand, the stench of ammonia invades the nostrils. We climb on rocks polished over the years by the rough waters and, predictably, see a gaggle of geese, and a team of ducks nearby.

The rocks are also home to slightly-damaged stone idols of gods, abandoned on the banks of the river by temples and devotees. One of them catches our fancy. A goddess (face unclear) has found her resting place on a damaged Shivalinga. Another idol lies facedown, its water-filled crevices sheltering the insects that thrive in puddles. Placed near them are rudimentary coops, fashioned out of canvas and bamboo, to house the hens and ducks.

Walking past a family of fisher folk who are moving their belongings to high ground in anticipation of the rising water level, we reach an umbrella-like structure made of stone. It shelters nine statues, which the locals insist are the n avagrahas.

A word of warning. The water level will be unstable for a few weeks to come. So, if you love diving into the water, restrain yourself. Just stand on the banks, or plonk yourselves on the numerous rocks around and take in the sight of a river flowing by.

How to go

From Erode, take the road leading to Karur, and drive till Ganapathypalayam (20 km). Turn left at the ‘four roads’ junction, and drive about 2.5 km to reach the river.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2007/07/28/stories/2007072851290200.htm

Kodumudi : Stop 'n' Go

Kodumudi: because it's there, says SUBHA J RAO

FOR THOSE who travel on the Erode-Karur Road regularly, Kodumudi is just another stop. But stop and take in the surroundings. The air is heady with the scent of turmeric. Crops of golden yellow paddy wave in the wind ready for harvest and waif-like betel vines snake up stiff agathi keerai trees.

The Cauvery gurgles past the 7th Century AD periya kovil on its idol-rich bank. Looking skyward to propitiate the gods, devotees and locals take a quick dip in knee-deep water before heading for the temple. The water has now receded but during the days when the gates of the Mettur dam are open, it swells to cover some of the newly built concrete steps on the bank.

Devotees grateful that their wishes are granted by the Trinity (Shiva, Brahma and Vishnu) return to leave a stone idol on the muddy bank. Over the years, the Gods seem to have smiled on quite a few people. You can't walk more than 10 feet without stumbling upon an idol.

Perfectly sculpted Ganeshas, Nandis, Nagarajas and a host of other nameless gods in the Hindu pantheon sit benignly waiting for new companions.

For local anglers

The new idols smothered with soggy marigold garlands stand out in contrast with others, which have had their sharp edges softened by years of lapping waves. Other deities lie half-buried in the wet sand, missing a hand or leg or a nose. The sculptures get a scrubbing only when water is released from the dam. Then, they go underwater and resurface only when the level decreases in summer. This is also the time for local anglers. Using nothing more than a length of string and a ripe banana, they hook a variety of eels and other kinds of fish.

The coracle owners here are a friendly lot and help you find the best places to fish. Park your vehicle near the temple and wade down till you are waist deep in water. A local boy flings a fruit-laden string into the water and waits for some fish to fall for his bait. When his neighbour hooks an eel, he looks with yearning and moves away to deeper waters. While he is trying his luck, a foot-long nandi, its nose above water, keeps me company.

Soon, it's time to take the ride on the bamboo-lined coracle. The boatman plunges a bamboo pole into the water to make it glide across the Cauvery. A few minutes later, at the cost of a few rupees, you are on the other bank and in a different district, Namakkal. On this side lies the Agasthiar Paarai, the stone on which the saint believed to have brought forth the Cauvery, is said to have done penance. When the river is in full spate, the coracle can go right up to it.

How to go there: Kodumudi is 105 km from Coimbatore. If you're driving down, take a diversion near Kangeyam. There are not many eateries out there. But the famous Kodumudi cucumber is available in plenty in the temple complex.

When the sun turns up its heat, this is the only salvation around.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2005/03/05/stories/2005030501820100.htm