Dhimbam : Journey into the heart of the jungle

Get hypnotised by the calm, says PANKAJA SRINIVASAN

PHOTOS: K. ANANTHAN

WATCH THEM IN THE WILD Spotted deer.

Some wise guy on the Travel and Living Channel said, "It is not the destination, but the journey there that matters." This RLT was something like that. The destination was "Tiger Farm", a spot tigers frequented once upon a time. With ridiculously improbable visions of cats roaming, romping and slumbering in the sun, we depart for Thalamalai, somewhere in the Sathyamangalam forests.

But first things first and breakfast is at Sri Ramavilas at Sathyamangalam. Hot pongal and vadai followed by coffee and a friendly conversation with R. Venkatraman, the owner, who says R. K. Narayan has eaten here. Then, safe in the belief that Bannari Amman is watching over us, (we visit her temple in the foothills), we set off.

The fun begins when we start the climb — 27 hairpin bends. We stop to watch a huge container struggling to make the turn. "Ever forward, never backward" says a pithy message emblazoned on the lorry. No wonder, all that trouble to reverse! I turn my attention to the other side of the road where a terse "Sound Okay Horn," is all the luxury of words that truck owner will allow himself.

Soon, we reach Dhimbam. There, we take a left turn and drive into thick forests. Surprisingly, the road is great. And, oh the silence... there are just a few birds exchanging notes, only occasionally. Suddenly, a streak of orange as a pack of furry creatures crosses our paths. Sennaai (wild dogs) says our driver. Before we can aim and shoot, they are gone, but not before flashing us looks of dislike.

I actually feel like the paparazzi — rude, insensitive and intrusive. Take the Grey Wagtail, in the rock pool where we have pulled up. It is minding its own business — absorbed in some complex preening ritual and we stare at its every move as it flits from rock to rock, looks at itself in the water, takes a sip or two and does a little happy jig. I wonder, if it really doesn't know we are there ogling at it. Or, may be it does. Watching the bird and sitting amidst mind numbing silence, I actually doze off for a few minutes!

A Brahminy kite at Thalamalai.

That is the greatest thing about this RLT. It is all about breathing in clean, sweet air and being hypnotised by the utter silence. It is a lovely, dreamy feeling. And, it is an ornithologist's heaven. Some spotted deer complete the feeling of euphoria.

But, we still have to see the gambolling tigers! And, of course, we don't. Tiger Farm is just an old bungalow built by a white man, near a pool where tigers once met over a drink. The yellow-washed bungalow looks intriguing. But, it belongs to someone and the caretaker is unwilling to let us in. So, we look at it from outside, and move on even as a Brahminy kite makes a repast of a short-lived reptile.

Permission: It is a protected area so contact the DFO's Office at 04295-220312 before you set off.

How to get there: From Coimbatore drive up to Sathyamangalam from where Dhimbam is approximately 25 km. At Dhimbam, turn left. The forest drive begins almost immediately.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2007/01/20/stories/2007012001270400.htm

Kongu Nadu - Peruvali : Travelling down the ages

SHANKAR VANAVARAYAR

A network of ancient roadways criss-crossed the Kongu region

ROAD MAP TO DEVELOPMENT The highways in Kongu Nadu PHOTO: PRIVATE COLLECTION

Man has moved from place to place from times immemorial and travelled many miles exploring lands far and wide. Roadways, therefore, have always played a vital role in communication.

Many roads in the Kongu region go back centuries. Probably why our region developed faster than others.

There are references to `Peruvali', or highroads, in records from the Sangam era. These roads also had check posts that served as collection points for taxes. In later periods, there were roads and highways connecting the Chola, Chera and Pandya kingdoms.

A highway through the city

One such highway passed right through our city, originating at Perur and passing through Manniyur (Annur), Nallur, Ukkiram and Vinnappalli before culminating in Sathyamangalam. From there, it led to the northern Ganga country.

While these highways might not be comparable to modern-day expressways given the limited material and know-how available, they were more than adequate for the modes of transport that existed then. These roads were cart tracks that were cleared of vegetation and rocks. Some of these roads were 30 feet wide. They occasionally had stone structures called Summai Thangi, which allowed weary travellers to set down their heavy burdens and rest awhile.

These ancient roads still connect many towns and villages. Old structures and ancient temples along these roads stand testimony to their age. Records of the number of roads that existed then indicate the great volumes of traffic that they handled.

Mentioned below are some of the important highways and roads in the Kongu region:

Kongap Peruvali

This road connected the Chola country to Kongu. Early Chola records date this road to the time of Parantaka I. The road is said to have passed through Tiruvanaikaval and Srirangam. It reached Kovanputtur and Perur through Karur, Suralur, Kangayam and Palladam. Even today, the same route is used to reach Trichy.

Viranarayanan Peruvali

This is the Kangayam Erode road that linked Erode and Bhavani to Dharapuram.

Kongakula Vali Vadi

This road is mentioned in inscriptions at the Perur temple. This roadway connected Kovanputtur (Coimbatore) and Polilvaychchi (Pollachi). This road also linked Kongap Peruvali at Nachchinallur (Nachchipalayam) near Madukkarai. The National Highway at Othakaalmandapam runs through this stretch today. The road extended beyond Pollachi to Kolumam and onward to Palani. It also connected the passage to Aliyar and Anamalais.

Kolumattirkuppora Peruvali

This road, connecting Palani and Kolumam, lay in the south of the Kongu region and ran all the way between Coimbatore and Palani.

Nattup Peruvali

This was perhaps the precursor to the modern Karur-Trichy highway. This roadway was one of the major highways of the region.

K. S. Vaidyanathan, in his book, `The Ancient Geography of The Kongu Country', gives a detailed account of the roads of the Kongu region. Some of these roadways exist and are sprinkled with old buildings, ancient temples with inscriptions, water bodies, Summai Thangis and old trees.

Along the way, communities that originally hailed from these places or migrated from elsewhere still flourish. Studying and researching these communities reveal valuable insights about the lifestyles of the people who lived there then.

These roadways were the precursor to the modern national corridors and expressways. The number of roadways in this area proves it was a region to reckon with and that Coimbatore was a transit point for many roads that connected various kingdoms and important principalities.

Of all the ancient roadways in Kongu, Peruvali still exists in parts today. This road runs not far from our city. At one time, common travellers, traders, armies and even the Romans had traversed through it. It was called Rajakesari Peruvali after King Rajakesari who ruled from Koli (Uraiyur). It is said that he was the Chola who conquered the Kongu region.

The highway exists in its original state in some parts. There are inscriptions that praise the king for providing a shadow army for the safety of the traders who travelled with precious cargo. This road exists between Ayyaswamimalai and Dharmalingamalai and one can trace it between Perur and Madhukarai also. It is said that it connected the Kongu region with Kerala.

According to Mr. Jayaraman, a heritage enthusiast from Perur who has often visited parts of the ancient highway, "It is a place of beauty and great historical importance". One can find rock cut grinders and loops to tie animals, water bodies, stone embankments and Summai Thangis. It is imperitive that this archaeologically important highway be maintained in its existing form for posterity and safeguarded against commercial activities.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2005/12/03/stories/2005120302860200.htm

Kurumba Village : Spice and all things nice

Colourful birds, fluffy clouds, silvery waterways and fragrant spices make the resort an idyllic holiday spot. SUBHA J Rao and Pankaja Srinivasan pay a visit

FOR AN IDYLLIC HOLIDAY The Kurumba Valley Resort PHOTOS: K. ANANTHAN

With Kenny Rogers and Don Williams serenading you, a view that is spellbinding, comfortable armchairs and a bookcase where John Grisham and Joseph Heller mingle easily with Enid Blyton and Archie — this could be heaven. And this is only the reception area of Kurumba Village Resort.

It only gets better from there.

At first glance it seems spartan. Everything has a reason to be there — be it the long-handled umbrellas just waiting to be grabbed and taken out for a walk in the rain or the blackboard — you fight the urge to grab the chalk and scribble. "You are welcome to write on it," smiles the attendant. Leaning against the balcony, in one corner is a mortar and pestle, and in the other is a chakki, both carved by local tribals — the Kurumbas.

This is, in fact, Kurumba territory called Kurumbadi, where they have lived for hundreds of years. A guided tour by the tribals is a rare treat. Each tree, shrub, creeper and bush is introduced to you like a personal friend and leaves, fruits, buds and bark are gently removed and shown off lovingly. It is during one such a spice tour that you get to know more about the golden yellow fruit of the nutmeg tree, the blood-red outer covering of the nut (mace) and the shiny, grainy skinned nutmeg. Nothing in the fruit goes waste. Even the fleshy outer shell goes to make jams and pickles.

The architect who has designed the place has built the resort on various levels, taking care not to cut down trees. Where there were trees, they have just built around them. There are trees laden with nutmeg, clusters of green cloves, fragrant bay leaves and creepers bursting with green pepper. It is a revelation for us who have only seen these spices sold in sachets.

All that green around acts as a soothing balm to your eyes and the gurgle of a mountain stream and the chirping of birds are music to your ears. The fragrance of the spices has you feeling almost drunk, the cloves leave a pleasant tingling on your tongue and the various shrubs and bark of the trees are welcoming to your touch.

When it all gets too overwhelming, just head for your room and the balcony attached to it that overlooks a deep valley. Sink into a chair, rest your weary feet on the footstool , grab a book and escape into your private paradise.

If activity is your thing, there is scrabble, table tennis or the pool table to engage you. A drop-dead gorgeous swimming pool with jacuzzi is irresistible. From one end of the pool it looks as if the water is tumbling over into nothingness.

Invigorating

The invigorating mountain air whets one's appetite and Bevina (loosely translated, means from neem), the multi-cuisine restaurant, comes to your rescue. Overlooking the stream that babbles merrily by, the view is awesome. The grey green slopes of the Nilgiris smile down on you as you slurp on healthy soups and bite into crunchy salads. The menu is varied. So, steamed, buttered vegetables fidget for space with fresh vegetables, buttery, flaky Ceylon parotta, ginger-spiced dal, paneer butter masala, fried rice with crisp vegetables and wholesome sambar. Local delicacies like raw jackfruit poriyal, cooked with coconut oil and finely shredded onion, are served, much to the delight of city slickers.

Breakfast begins with a plateful of delicious papaya followed by cornflakes, toast and eggs for those who feel so inclined and fluffy idlis and aromatic oothappam for those who like their breakfast more traditional.

A one-night, two-day package (for two) costs Rs. 3,500 for a cottage and Rs 4, 500 for a suite. This includes lunch, dinner and a breakfast the following morning. A spice tour is part of some packages. A trek to the Hill Grove station to greet the Nilgiri Mountain Railway (NMR) train that steams in from Mettupalayam and a visit to a Kurumba settlement are also arranged. The resort has 12 well-appointed cottages redolent of the scent of wood and three expansive suites built on two levels. The bathtubs are placed right next to the sheer plate glass windows, the thick canopy of nutmeg trees acting as a natural curtain.

The flowering Jacaranda and Spathodia trees add a bit more of magic. The owners have taken care to provide local Kurumba lads an opportunity to earn doing what they love best — climbing trees, harvesting spice, picking jackfruit and coconut and showing off their land to eager outsiders.

The place is ideal to visit through the year with the temperature ranging from a comfortable 11 degrees C to 20 degrees C.

How to go there

The resort lies off the main Coimbatore-Coonoor Road, between the fourth and the fifth hairpin bends in Upper Burliar. The resort is hidden from view. Drive down about five minutes through a steep pebbled road, atop a bridge and a pathway carved inside the plantation to reach Kurumba Village.

Drive up 56 kilometres from Coimbatore. You can also take the NMR till Coonoor and travel 12 km down from there.

For details, call 0423-2004850/1, e- mail nilgiris@kurumbavillageresort.com or visit website kurumbavillageresort.com

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2006/02/11/stories/2006021101900200.htm