Kullur Sandhai : A forgotten destination

Once a favoured spot of bird lovers and children, it is now waiting for care and attention

WATER WATER EVERYWHERE The dam site

Not sure whether this place will make for an RLT, I still head for it. So far all RLTs have been about exotic beaches, cascading waterfalls, beautiful valleys, eerie jungles, adventure treks and so on. But never a one with a "once upon a time" tag. This week's RLT is about a place that was once a beautiful spot. But neglect has rendered it, literally, a road less travelled. There was a time when anybody who fancied a date with birds thronged this place, which also reverberated with the cacophonic sounds of children having fun in the adjacent park. Now, all that remains of the park is a name board, a broken slide and a swing. The piece of land is crowded with overgrown trees. One hears that the district administration has decided to revive the place.

Barely six km from Virudhunagar town in a sleepy village called Kullur Sandhai is what was once known as Tourism Department's District Excursion Centre. It made a nice picnic spot with PWD's reservoir scheme and play equipment for children. Despite Kullur Sandhai's forgotten status, it still makes for an outing if you overcome the initial shock. Hardened by all my previous RLT treks and (mis)adventures, I reach the village centre and take a narrow muddy path full of slush now. It curves and bends through bramble and other shrubs. The familiar, yellow whitewashed wall of a PWD building or construction is visible in the background as I watch my step during the less than 30-minutes walk. The blazing sun, I left behind in Madurai. Now, I could see black clouds on the horizon. The sky threatening to burst any time and a gentle breeze refreshes me despite the not-so-inspiring surroundings. Nothing to write about in superlative terms, I tell myself. A flight of rocky steps elevates me to the dam level and what shows up is a vast watery expanse. Miniscule islands of green grass float in the placid waters that fill up the PWD's reservoir that covers almost 300 acres. With the mercy of the rain gods, the reservoir is brimming. It is `water water everywhere' but no awesome sight to behold. But a strange silence befalls.

I spot two young boys by the side of the bund, carrying books and, surprisingly, a pair of binoculars. They are preparing for their mid-term exams in a place, which they feel offers them tranquillity. There are too many disturbances in the home, they tell me, half smiling. And binocs? Well, when they get bored, they do a bit of bird watching. There was a time when tourists used to come in dribs and drabs as post-rainy season also brought flocks of pond herons, open-billed storks, cormorants and babblers. The boys tell me many terrestrial and aquatic birds visit the reservoir between November and March. Though the surrounding vegetation has now thinned, the avian population has not forgotten Kullur Sandhai. Whiling away time by the dam site, these two friends got interested in birds. They saved money and bought a pair of good binoculars. But there was nobody to guide them. So whenever they meet any amateur or professional ornithologist at the site, they take quick lessons on the avian visitors.

The place can be restored to its earlier glory with some care and attention. Like the two boys, others in Kullur Sandhai are waiting for people to return to the park and the dam site.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2006/11/13/stories/2006111300130300.htm

Athikkadavu : Woods, water and wings

For a walk in the wild, says W. Sreelalitha

PHOTOS: K. ANANTHAN

DIVERSE SIGHTS A Malabar Pied hornbill, a forest track along the River Bhavani in the Athikadavu Forest, a nest and a giant squirrel

It was my first RLT. I did not sleep a wink the previous night. It seemed like a blind date — I did not know what to expect. I realised later I should have snored away merrily. I had laid three conditions (to myself) for my debut — the trip should have a river, a trek and an encounter with a tiger. And lady luck, I guess, did not just smile, but guffawed, for the RLT had all the three. Well, almost!

Driving down to the Kobanari Reserve Forest in the Karamadai range, K. Kalidasan, president of Osai, an NGO, involved in environment conservation, mentioned the possibility of sighting hornbills. Accompanying us was forester K. Krishnasamy.

We got off the vehicle near Athikkadavu bridge, and looked down at the River Bhavani murmuring softly amid tall trees. Dazed after such a serene sight, a ruffle in a tree nearby grabbed our attention — the Indian giant squirrel. All crimson and black with a long, bushy tail, the squirrel could give its cousin in our balcony a run for its money! Once aware we were gaping at it, the rodent scurried off into the comfort of healthy shrubs.

Our one-and-a-half-km trek, just near the bridge, began. On the path, less than a foot wide, we frequently saw cakes of fresh and not-so-fresh dung of the gaur, ants — big and small, black or red — marching busily, flamboyant blue-green beetles, and loads of tiny insects.

The call of the birds

We carefully planted our steps. Cleverly camouflaging themselves in the greenery, the cicada chattered, the Malabar whistling thrush whistled, the crested serpent eagle cried, the hoopoe called, and the red-vented bulbul chirped. Dry brown leaves rustled underneath, and the river, running along our path, gurgled. This spontaneous orchestra in the wild made a perfect musical accompaniment for our journey. And just five minutes into the trek, the enchanting happened!

From atop a tree nearby, we heard an unpleasant sound like a row of boxes strung together being pulled with great effort. At once, an alert Kalidasan whispered: "Hornbill!" I could not see the bird, but soon realised that it was the flutter of its wings that was causing the discord. Had I come all this way just to spot this bird, I wondered.

But, in two seconds, as if to put me to shame for my impertinent thoughts, the rare and endangered Malabar pied hornbill took off brilliantly. Gliding with peerless flamboyance, he flew across the river, and perched himself on a treetop. He flaunted his imposing casque one minute, and tossed his head like a teasing lover, the next. After a few minutes of conceited peek-a-boo, he disappeared into a particularly flourishing tree. Ananthan, our photographer, waited for it. We too lingered, desperate for more — in vain. But this is one scene none of us would forget in a hurry.

As for me, I could not have cared if a tiger, with his lady and cubs in tow, preened endlessly in front of me for a photograph! As we continued to walk, we saw in the distance gibbering bonnet macaques jumping into the river and swimming to the bank in reckless abandon. Elsewhere, a couple of cormorants rested on a rock after a hearty breakfast and white-breasted kingfishers wheeled over the river for their meal. Throughout the stretch, we spotted at least five Indian giant squirrels. Magpie robins, babblers, bee-eaters and flower-peckers flying about with a sense of importance became boringly common.

Towards the end of the trek, we dipped our feet into the cool and pristine waters of the Bhavani, clinging to the smooth rocks. On the dry grey rocks were marvellous patterns of off-white algal remnants. Resting for sometime to watch tiny frogs and hoping an elephant would stop by, we trekked back to the vehicle. As it started, I grinned happily — I could not have asked for a better first RLT!

How to go

Karamadai is 35 km from Coimbatore. From there, drive down or take a bus to Athikkadavu, 30 km away. For permission to visit, call the District Forest Office at 0422 2302925.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2007/04/09/stories/2007040900160300.htm

Mailam : Temple Town

Mailam: One way of cooking up an RLT, admits PRINCE FREDERICK

CONFESSION. WHEN I suggested Mailam as an RLT, the idea was greeted with a reaction that lay somewhere between deep scepticism and sheer derision. "Why Mailam?" asked my disbelieving colleagues. "RLTs are supposed to cover tourist places, not temples." Having spotted the place on the tourist map (marked by a man with a backpack), I was convinced that there was more to Mailam than the temple. "What about the fabulous scenery?" I shot back, silencing my colleagues. In my head, I pictured rolling hills, a freshwater lake and some other natural features, which add up to a good RLT.

REALITY. As I near Mailam, I discover the distressing truth. Mailam is a one temple town. The temple is situated on a hillock but the surrounding area is as flat as a pancake and the only water I can see is packaged in bottles in the numerous shops that lead to the temple.

STRATAGEM. This poses a problem. Will the powers-that-be allow me to publish Mailam as an RLT? Perhaps, they will if I write this as a confessional. So, having crossed my fingers, here goes.

The Mailam Murugan temple is located 15 km from Tindivanam, on a small hill on the slopes of which are a number of houses and an institute dedicated to the development of Tamil language and literature.

According to legend, it was here that Murugan rid a celestial being of a long-standing curse he `earned' from Shiva for dereliction of duty. Once cleansed of the curse, the being requested Murugan to grace this place with his presence. Murugan acceded. And so he has resided in Mailam (which derives its name from Murugan's vehicle, the Mayil or peacock) assuming his bridegroom form (Kalyana Kolam), along with Valli and Devasena. Many more interesting stories and beliefs unfold as I get a temple worker to interpret the iconography for me.

As I climb the steps leading to the temple, which is cool and ringed by trees, I learn from an elderly woman who strikes up a conversation that "the deity is also known to bless the childless with children". She seems to wonder why I am here when I tell her I am unmarried.

So, to return to the original question. Is there really more to Mailam than

Mailam? In a way, yes there is. It is just 10 km away from Tiruvakkarai, the fossil forest that was featured in an earlier RLT.

Together, they could comprise a neat tourist package, the twin experiences can be taken in during the course of a day. At least that's what I am telling the powers-that-be who will decide on the fate of this RLT.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2004/08/07/stories/2004080700050100.htm

Manora,Vallanadu, Ariyankuppam, Vattaparai : The road comes to an end

In this final RLT, Soma Basu recalls the thrills and travails of exploring a hundred less-travelled roads

Historical heights

Manora 65 km from Thanjavur

Visited May 2004

I remember.The perilous journey to the tower across a tottering makeshift bridge with missing floorboards and shaky handrails.

Last week I wrote my 100th RLT (Kurangani) with a mind filled with mixed emotions. During four years of travelling across the Southern districts of Tamil Nadu and fringes of Kerala, I have realised travel writing is not easy. For, the sky will alway s be azure, rolling hills verdant and forests emerald. The vast emptiness of the pristine white sand on the beaches and the infinite blue sea is not easy to describe otherwise. But then the limited vocabulary was never a deterrent.

The objective always was to dig out exotic spots may be few knew about and fewer perhaps cared to visit. And now there can’t be a better moment, completion of hundred articles, to windup the column.

Several sweet and some not-so-pleasant memories will always remain etched. Poring over maps for hours and friendly suggestions even from strangers led me to several perfectly created places for the column such as the Cardamom Hills, Thengapattinam, Manora, Chunnambar, Valinokkam, Govindapperi, Kumbhavarutty, Kiliyur, Kuttikanam, Mannavannur, Ambanaad and many more.

Buck is beautiful

Vallanadu Black Buck Sanctuary 22 km from Tirunelveli

Visited June 2005

I remember. The thrill at spotting a black buck after a four-hour wait!

“Have you really been to all these places? Are they as beautiful as they look in your photographs?” From cynicism and suspicion to appreciation, they have all come my way and even earned me the nickname “RLT Soma”.

First encounter

What started as an innocuous decision about a travel column in November 2003 turned into quite a haul week after week over the years for the MetroPlus team. When I made my debut with Karaikudi’s majestic banglas, trepidation overshadowed enchantment. I was neither a travel writer nor a professional trekker and had no knowledge of Tamil (having come straight from Hindi heartland of Delhi). But all through I banked on my boss’s precious words: “Your personal experience will drive your narrative. What you see, smell, hear and taste will make your copy interesting.” To the best of my ability, wherever I went I tried to present the flavour of the area, many a times at the cost of aching and cramped legs, terrible back pain, a ravenously hungry stomach, several near misses of blinding my vision by some dangerously thorny branches and even slipping off wet rocks.

One of my most difficult treks was to Olakkay Aruvi water falls near Nagercoil. I began disastrously. While crossing a stream to enter the forest I tripped over a slippery rock much to my embarrassment. For me, my expensive digital camera was more precious and with some never-tried-before acrobatic skill I managed to hold it aloft like an Olympic flame. Several uphill walks left my pair of legs shaking like tottering stilts and each time I yearned to be tucked inside a rolling drum for the descend.

The Thenmala Eco-Toursim Centre on Madurai-Kollam Highway had me literally on the rope, not the road! I crawled across a rope from one bank of a pond to the other like a spiderwoman but was never sure whether I would survive to write the next RLT.

View from the tree-top

Chunammbar In Ariyankuppam near Cuddalore

Visited September 2006

I remember.The heady feeling at night in a tree-top house.

At Sittanavasal, I temporarily lost my bag to a chatter of prancing monkeys who pounced on me when I was climbing up to reach the Jain caves. I almost thought of lodging a police complaint when the simian brothers took pity and flung it back at me. But I dropped the catch and the bag hurtled down the very 150-odd steps that I had just managed to conquer huffing and puffing. I was back at step one to retrieve my bag.

Quitting reluctantly

I had ambitiously dreamt that all the trudging for the column would help me knock of several kilograms. Four years later, people still recommend a gym. I started, albeit, reluctantly. Today I quit yearning for more.

On these roads less travelled I met several well-meaning individuals, who volunteered information and entertained me with jokes, food and history. I met some forest caretakers more than once as they got transferred in these four years from one district to another. Some of them spoke a smattering of Hindi being ex-Army jawans and helped me to improve my knowledge of Tamil. These years have surely made me a better photographer, a keen bird watcher and much more knowledgeable about flora and fauna.

For a cool splash

Vattaparai: 15 km from Nagercoil

Visited: November 2007

I remember.The uncanny feeling it left. Anything could happen in this corridor that's teeming with wildlife.

The RLTs took me on smelly boat rides in Muthupet and Manakudy, rattling bus journeys to Manjolai, Thiruppodaimarudu and clattering taxis which broke down and left me stranded in the middle of nowhere for seven hours in Kanyakumari.

Bio-diversity

Whether it was experiencing a slice of bio-diversity from a close range or letting imagination run riot in fort ruins, or the romantic misty mountains and cascading water falls, the unusual swamp forests or the archaeological sites, each time it was an exciting and adventurous road that I refused to stray from even though it brought me dangerously close to elephants, bisons and bears. Various snorts and grunts kept pushing me deeper into the Saptur forest, and I had never been more scared. Mainly because my three-year-old son was with me. Unlike me, he was bereft of any tension, comfortably perched on the shoulder of a forest guard. My daughter’s first expedition with me was as a four-month-old in a basket to mist enveloped Addukam and Poolathur near Kodaikanal, where we almost lost our way back. Ever since she has accompanied me on almost every RLT.

All good things come to an end but I remain “not out” after a century. I owe a lot to scores of faceless and unknown readers who call, e-mail and write letters suggesting new and less-known places. I am only declaring my innings today. There are still many hidden spots in the State waiting to be explored.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2008/01/28/stories/2008012851190300.htm

Govindapperi : Far from the madding crowd

Much more than just a village, says SOMA BASU

LUSH LANDSCAPES Govindapperi PHOTO: SOMA BASU

Enquire about Govindapperi and chances are it will be dismissed as any other unheard of village or place. Unless, of course, you are willing to do a bit of exploring, which I did. However, I must admit, there were many moments when I almost gave up the search.

It is neither easy to find nor describe the place. Despite proper directions, it took me all of six hours to cover the 167 km stretch from Madurai.

Govindapperi is a small village, tucked away deep in rural Tamil Nadu, where farmlands stretch for acres in all directions. The Western Ghats form a magnificent backdrop. Small waterfalls appear like silver streaks in the distance; and the watercourses through the fields and the grasslands, create a unique pattern on the landscape.

Open fields

At Govindapperi, you can take a tour of a farm with peacocks following you. The place gets plenty of rainfall and enjoys pleasant weather round the year.

The 400-odd acres of open fields, criss-crossed by small and big water retention basins, irrigation channels, streams and embankments, belong to a Kerala-based architect. When he bought the land in 1993, it had sparse vegetation, was overgrazed and prone to fires. It took 10 years of nurturing to restore and re-vegetate the land and transform it into lush fields. So much so, Govindapperi merits a place on an adventure traveller's map.

Apart from diverse fauna, the region has grown into a bird watcher's paradise. On reaching, I take a tour of the farm accompanied by Joseph, manager of the Mayura Lodge, the only accommodation available here.

The bungalows

The owner has built two bungalows, which are a curious mix of Kerala and Tamil Nadu architecture. Spartan but comfortable, my room offers a beautiful view.

As we walk across fields of organically grown tomatoes, egg plant, okra, ginger and lemon, I am thrilled to see different kinds of birds with brilliant plumage. Joseph rattles off their names — laughing dove, wood sand piper, red-wattle lapwing, black ibis, little cormorant, Oriental magpie, robin, spot-billed pelican, jungle babbler, purple sunbird, weavers and pipits...

On the fenced wall, I spot chameleons perched on the pillars. We walk around with half-a-dozen peacocks following us and hares jumping across our path. The air smells sweet, and the cool breeze is soothing. We reach a lake that is dotted with coconut and palm trees. Farmers use the water from the rain-fed lake to irrigate their fields. There's plenty for Nature lovers and trekkers at Govindapperi. Tiger, deer and boar are reportedly sighted here, given its proximity to the Kalakkad-Mundanthurai Sanctuary. You can enjoy a day's outing in the pristine surroundings of Govindapperi, which is by and large untouched by modern technology. You can also stay here for a few days and enjoy some guided tours. For that, you will have to make advance bookings at the Mayura Lodge.

How to reach there: Govindapperi is 167 km from Madurai; 137 km from Thiruvananthapuram and 67 km from Tirunelveli junction. Take the NH 208 to Tenkasi and turn off the highway on the road to Ambasamudram. Eighteen km later, you'll reach Kadaiyam. Turn right here and cross Mandiyur and Rajangapuram before reaching Govindapperi. While asking for directions, ask for the Kerala bungalow not the Mayura Lodge.

For accommodation (inclusive of food), contact Joseph (04634-240294) or Rajesh George (0484-2706475-6). The peak season is from October to March.

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2005/09/24/stories/2005092401550300.htm

Karaikudi : Heritage Heartland

Karaikudi showcases the architectural splendour of the Chettiars

HAVING SETTLED on visiting Karaikudi, I am amazed by the number of people who proffer the same advice. Visit "aayiram jannal veedu," they urge. So, as I head for the land of the Chettiars from Madurai, my mind — during the 86-km ride on a highway that alternates maddeningly between potholed and silken smooth stretches — is fixed on the famed 1,000-windowed house.

Once in Karaikudi, finding the house is a lark. An ageing Mr. Alagappan lets you inside the 20,000 sq.ft mansion battered by time, weather and lack of maintenance. "My father built it in 1941 for Rs.1,25,000. It has 24 rooms and five big halls," he says. He adds, "But it has only 200 doors and windows." Even so, the architectural splendour of the house is hardly diminished. Mr. Alagappan does not allow any shooting to take place.

In contrast, the fabulous Chettiar houses in Athankudi village are a pet location for directors.

Straying into the lanes that criss-cross Karaikudi, it becomes obvious that the 1,000-windowed house is but one among the many old buildings. The townscape is at once fascinating and disturbing. The enormous mansions that gave the community their name, "Nattukottai Chettiar" are incongruously juxtaposed with structures that are prosaic in their modernity. The majority of the old homes remain locked, silent edifices evoking sympathy and wonder about the years gone by.

The best thing you could do on a day out in Karaikudi is to go mansion-hopping. However, if you are religious, you might want to consider taking a whirlwind tour of the nine Siva shrines, on the basis of which the entire Chettiar clan is divided into nine groups. These temples are located between Pudukkottai in the north and Sivaganga in the south. The only Vishnu temple is at Ariyakudi village, which is also known as South Tirupati, is worth a visit.

Grand residences stand as relics not only in Karaikudi but also in the surrounding 76 villages. A 52-year-old house belonging to M.L.Meyyappa Chettiar, the 81-year-old film distributor for AVM productions in Chennai, teems with guests for a wedding. Apparently, such `fortresses' still have a utility on special occasions. "The 1,50,000-strong Chettiar population is scattered now but we return to our homes for such functions and cherish the reunion. Our houses have to be retained for traditional celebrations," he says.

Each house is a world in itself, complete with the mandatory `thinnais', the valavu and the surrounding corridors with rooms branching out. The degree of ornateness is a reflection of the level of prosperity.

The door at the entrance of a massive mansion called "keela koratiyar" is estimated to be worth Rs. 50 lakhs today! When looking at these fabulous houses becomes tiring, you might want to chill out in one. The "Bangala", a 75-year-old property, belonging to the M.S.M. Meyappan family is elegant and has recently been classified as a heritage hotel. The boutique hotel, an improbable mix of the rustic and the refined, is a perfect environment to relax in. The Bangala is a good base to walk around Karaikudi's streets, check out the quaint shops selling gold, silver, antique furniture and Chettinad saris or visit the Chettinad Palace in Kanadukathan (12 km away). Karaikudi and the surrounding areas grow on you with time, so do try and earmark at least a few days for a visit. Also, pack a camera with a decent zoom lens — this place is a photographer's delight.

TRAVEL TIPS

Road: Easily accessible from Madurai, Trichy and Tanjore. Frequent State Transport buses are available.

Rail: Train connections to Karaikudi from Chennai, Rameswaram, Quilon, Nellai, Trichy, Nagoor and Mayilathurai.

Air: Nearest airports are at Madurai and Trichy.

Where to stay: The Bangala on Devakottai Road, Senjai. (tariff : Rs.5,400 for double occupancy) For reservations contact Chettinad Heritage Hotels in Chennai. Phone: 044-24934851/24934912) Hotel Subhalakshmi: 04565-2437010, Hotel Annapoorna: 04565-223167

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2003/12/13/stories/2003121300040100.htm

Sittlingi : Trekking country

Spin a needle and choose a peak, says ASHA S. MENON

PHOTO: ASHA MENON

IDYLLIC SETTING Sittlingi

Sittlingi is surrounded by mountains that are part of the Chinna Kalrayan and Sitheri ranges. For a trek, spin the needle and choose a peak. I chose one from Kombai to Sitheri. The trek is far from a breeze. Though I had initially planned to trek both ways, up and down, the constraint of time and warnings from people familiar to the route dissuaded me. I decided to take a bus uphill and trek my way down.

To head for Sitheri, board an early bus to Harur, near Salem. Carry a handkerchief. At Harur, you can `book' a seat in the bus with a handkerchief. Enterprising hawkers sell them around the buses for Rs. 5 a piece.

The bus ride from Harur to Sitheri is uneventful. Till the scene changes from a bustling and dusty town to a quieter and greener forest. The thick forest and the river that runs through it offer a beautiful view. The bus winds through narrow, scraggy roads and sharp bends. The unfrequented trekking route is clean. We are asked to look out for small structures along the route. They are tribal temples made of thatched roofs and wooden sticks. Just remember to take off your footwear if you want to take a closer look at one of these structures.

Stunning view

The route is narrow and gravely. Tall bushes block your view of the steep mountainside, but occasionally, you can get a stunning view of the valley and the Kalrayan hills. You can rest in the small clearings and munch on wood apples that grow on the range. Along the route, one can spot rocks that jut out and if you are the adventurous kind, and do not suffer from vertigo, maybe you can even stand on of the precariously positioned rocks and get a view of the river flowing below.

On my way down, as I enter the cool shade of a bamboo grove, I hear a gushing stream. The scene is almost surreal. The sunlight that filters though the leaves suffuses the grove golden. I sit on the rocks that dot the stream for a while, fill some water in my bottle and move on. The route takes you through many hamlets. At one of them, A. K. Thanda, I take a bus back to Sittilingi. If time permits,

You can walk up to the river that flows at Kaliyankottai, near Sittilingi. Since I have enough time, I decide to get a peek at it. After walking around the fields and through the bushes, I finally arrive at the riverbank. Sadly, there was water just enough to sink in my feet but not for a swim. According to the locals, the scene is quite different during the monsoon as the river rises and overflows. And flash floods are not uncommon.

If you plan to take a trip to Sittilingi do it with an open mind. For, it is a place for wanderers, not tourists. And most important, do not forget to pack your trekking shoes.

How to get there

You can take a bus to Salem. At Salem take the 9 a.m. bus to Thiruvannamalai and get off at Sittlingi.

Where to stay

The TTDC Hotel,

Ramakrishna Mutt Road,

Salem - 07.

Ph: 0427-2313066

Courtesy: http://www.hindu.com/mp/2006/04/03/stories/2006040300020300.htm

Additional Links: http://www.tribalhealth.org/